Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had no probs just make sure its reputable dealer on ebay.

The other really good bang for your bucks is LEDs-parkers, no plate, boot, doors,interior

try this.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/g35-clear-side-marker

I would have to disagree in regard to the LEDs.. they cost 'bucks', but return zero 'bang', unless you just like a different colour light.. Plain old lamps do the job just fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191705-newbies/page/43/#findComment-7170414
Share on other sites

How would you know - have seen them or tried them ?? Has nothing to do with colour!- they are brighter and more effective. Driving down a driveway you can actually light up the walls either side with your parkers.The interior is much better and allows you to find things at night- especially those with dark trim. If you like I will buy you a pair there only about $12 at supercheap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191705-newbies/page/43/#findComment-7170456
Share on other sites

try this.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/g35-clear-side-marker

I would have to disagree in regard to the LEDs.. they cost 'bucks', but return zero 'bang', unless you just like a different colour light.. Plain old lamps do the job just fine.

Thanks mate! Perfect :)

As for LEDs.. My MR2 has all of them done so if they're the same fit then I will swap them all over :)

My V35 has white parkers and xenons but they said they're taking them off for compliance. Hopefully they leave them in the boot or something so I can whack them back in. Huge fan of white/blue lights on cars compared to the dated yellow look!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191705-newbies/page/43/#findComment-7170470
Share on other sites

How would you know - have seen them or tried them ?? Has nothing to do with colour!- they are brighter and more effective. Driving down a driveway you can actually light up the walls either side with your parkers.The interior is much better and allows you to find things at night- especially those with dark trim. If you like I will buy you a pair there only about $12 at supercheap.

Yes, have tried interior lights.. I found the brighter interior lights too bright at night and switched back to the standard bulbs.. but if you like them.. fine. I have a torch in the glove box for finding lost stuff in dark parts of the car.

Parking lights are not supposed to be bright, it will probably make them illegal if they are too bright.

No. Plate lights.. well, they don't really need to be any brighter.

There has also been a few posts of issues with the interior lights not working properly with LEDs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191705-newbies/page/43/#findComment-7170543
Share on other sites

They are perfectly legal- they are brighter not too bright !-they use less power and produce less heat.making them safer and should be more durable. Friends have had them for years without changing one. Last of all the colour emitted is much nicer! Ive had them iver a year- no issue.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191705-newbies/page/43/#findComment-7170551
Share on other sites

Sure if you like them then go for it. The main benefit is the range of colours if you don't like the normal incandescent colour.

Also in the 12 years I owned a J30 Maxima, the only 'bulb' I ever replaced is 2 interior dash lights. I wouldn't be surprised if LEDs have less lifespan than decent quality automotive bulbs.

I see some companies now selling 'loading resistors' for those that have retrofitted LEDs and have issues with their car electronics, they are designed to present the same electrical load on the cars electrics as normal bulbs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191705-newbies/page/43/#findComment-7170579
Share on other sites

If they are "designed to use the same electrical load" - why would they need load resisters?. The only situation you may need these is if you use more powerful LED's than the standard amperage ( which is crazy as they brighter anyway)Or you try using them where theres inconsistent power supply such as indicators.- which is not what they are designed for.

Everyone knows standard tail light fitment on the V is LED's. They are more effective and durable.I have had my car over six years without changing one and I doubt anyone ever needs to.

Like anything if you use them correctly they are , brighter, more efficient, and more durable. Its ok if you dont like them but stop talking BS and scaring people from using them - just because you dont know what your on about.

Btw - the guy just told your hes had them in his MR2- so he knows more about them than you do.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191705-newbies/page/43/#findComment-7170602
Share on other sites

Lol.. I forgot it is still school holidays.

in regard to 'speaking BS' -

1. It's call 'current', not 'amperage'

2. the additional resistors are designed to present the same electrical load as the original bulbs, as the LEDs normally don't, unless they have such resistors intergrated.

3. Decent quality automotive bulbs are easilly as durable, I have seen plenty of cars driving around with LED brake lights in the rear window, or rear spoiler with half of them not working. - and as I said.. 12 years in my old J30 without a single failed brake, parking, indicator or headlight bulb.

4. at no point did I try to 'scare' anyone from using anything, I just disputed your 'really good bang for buck' claim.

Facts -

1. LEDs are useful if you want a different colour without using filters on the bulbs (which reduce light output), they draw less power or produce more light for a given power rating, run cooler, and can have a decent lifespan, unless you buy cheap dodgy ebay LEDs which have a lifespan of about 12 months..

2. LEDs often upset car electronics.. there has already been a few threads in regard to people having the 'auto dimming' feature of their V35 interior lights not work with LEDs. And some reporting 'failed brake light' warnings on some cars due to the reduced load.

3. To make sure we all understand, I will repeat myself in capitals - USE THEM IF YOU LIKE!!!

18 years in the broadcast electronics industry has given me some knowledge of what LEDs are and how they work..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191705-newbies/page/43/#findComment-7170636
Share on other sites

Can you actually read!- of course people with auto dimmers are going to have problems- LEDS are not designed for dimmers or switches with inconsistent/variable power input.

All your other gibberish just confirms what I said about them.

18 years in broadcast electronics wont fix your short circuit kid.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191705-newbies/page/43/#findComment-7170720
Share on other sites

All your other gibberish just confirms what I said about them.

So why are you argueing with me??

Can you actually read!- of course people with auto dimmers are going to have problems- LEDS are not designed for dimmers or switches with inconsistent/variable power input.

Hmm.. wrong yet again.. LEDs work perfectally fine on suitable dimmers, it is the dimmers that have the problem.. they don't like the reduced load of the LEDs in these cases..

Anyway.. I'm out.. you go back to your 'amperage' now.. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191705-newbies/page/43/#findComment-7170959
Share on other sites

hello to all V36 owners out there,

previously a long time skyline owner and have taken a break for the past 2 years (went down the EVO path) now soon to be back to ye' ol' skyline.

looking at the v36 sedan Type SP 3.5L 2008.

Is there any known common issues with these cars?

i've read up something about the cam sensor failing being common

is there any difference between the 06-09 models?

would you v36 owners be kind enough to list down any issues you had with your car.

Thanks

If you look around and read some of the threads on here, you will see that the 06-07 models seem to have a software problem that makes driving the car a nightmare and apparently 2008+ dont have this problem. Have a read of this thread mate

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/430930-v36-rev-probs-firmware-update-anyone/?hl=%20v36

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191705-newbies/page/43/#findComment-7171088
Share on other sites

Hi all!

Just picked up my 04' 70th anniversary just over a week ago now and I'm f**king loving this car.

IMG_20140105_142858_zps79234aa7.jpg

IMG_20140105_142850_zpse12ee163.jpgIMG_20140110_180250_zps469e3466.jpg

The car is pretty much a blank canvas at this point.

Planning on over the coming year or two:

- Clear side indicators

- Computer language conversion + buttons

- Slim white licence plates

- Window tinting

- Ztube to stock airbox
- 350z Engine cover

- Suspension upgrades (sway bars, strut braces etc)

And less important stuff

- Plenum spacer

- Somesort of exhaust (not sure of what, want to keep a muffler at the end)

- OEM cruise control unit

- Wider 19" wheels

....and to fix
- Remote key (does abolutely nothing)

- Passenger side door lock actuator

- Some of the rubber seal stuff under the driver side door looks like it was hit with something and some of it came off.

- Clean out the massively long red hair I found underneath the centre console :S

Also, can anyone tell me what those little microphone looking things are on the dash? There are 2 of them.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191705-newbies/page/43/#findComment-7171972
Share on other sites

^ Car looks MINT man! I just bought a similar white 03 which I'll be getting in a week or two so I'm sharing your exact same excitement right now haha

Looking forward to seeing what you do with it :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191705-newbies/page/43/#findComment-7173339
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hello, I'm Davo and I'm new to the world of V-Series. Here's mine, details in the info bit to the left. Erm... no plans for it other than general ownership and some reliable motoring, a welcome change to the 1970s horror stories that I previously had...

2555e886-b3f3-4414-8935-1c3b41a8b953_zps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191705-newbies/page/43/#findComment-7182910
Share on other sites

Very nice! The wood grain is a nice finish.

It has 2 subs? Where?

2 small (about 8" I'd say) subs in the rear shelf. They don't have a whole lot of punch compared to my 12" but it still vibrates the rear window (can see it in my mirror haha) :happy:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191705-newbies/page/43/#findComment-7185666
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Got my car and did the first mod! Nice GPS/DVD system from my old MR2. Sounds great on the Bose speakers in my V35! Didn't realise it had 2 subs haha

1622596_10152063419764300_64611392_n.jpg

Awesome woodgrain finish mate. Did your car come with it or did you upgrade that too? If so how? I have a very similar one like yours, same color and model, but I havent upgraded the stereo yet. I am planning to put an after market single din in the place of the CD-ROM under the glove box. To put the after market stereo in the front dash I would need to buy a dash trim kit, which I don't really know where to source locally from (sydney) except for ebay.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191705-newbies/page/43/#findComment-7225457
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 馃
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
  • Create New...