Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am yet to experience this slip thing that ppl have mentioned of the Noltec arms. I have ran them for around 15 months now. Have done two Dutton Rallys, about 6 track days, 3 or 4 motor khanas...and have literally got my car airborn twice over 2 undulations on the in field of the track when i slipped wide and onto the grass at about 190km/h :) The front camber is still spot on, so if anyone has actually experienced this slipping i suggest they were poorly installed :D

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well my set up is the full syd kid set up

springs and shocks

sway bars

castor

camber

the springs and shocks settings/height are what syd kid reccomends in the thread (group buy)

I use R888's also. Last track day tyres were very hot on the contact patch

and still the max I can get is -1.5

I forget what the castor is, however, if I have max castor or as much as the adjustment allows, does it "reduce" the amount of camber I can dial in?

Im I a n00b at this?

Or should I just shut up and do alot more research? :)

Ah, that is good to know, I was advised against them by SK as he said they slip, I just blindly went with it...

Do the Noltec arms have the problem of the bushes flogging out?

yeah I agree with troy, what a load of codswallop. I've had mine for about a year. 2 or 3 track events including a nicely little backwards over a ripple strip at about 140kmh. no alignment change whatsoever.

I'm surprised people get so much camber out of the dogbone arms. I know what the problem was with mine. the ends touched each other inside the cuff. so yeah I could have cut them down and had heaps more adjustment, but the bearings in them didn't last long either. I would say I was running a lot of castor at the time which would have limited how much camber I was getting too. anyway I am much happier with the noltec arms. they are strong as can be, don't slip and have bushes and grease nipples installed. very good product.

wow.... this had turned into quite a handy thread.

alas... i'm a track newb, and really, won't be seeing much track time.

The reason i started this thread was to find out what other camber kit options i had besides the whiteline products which are +1/-1 camber. I've got possibly over -2 camber on the front right, and a few workshops don't know why, it's just the way it is. I've got near enough to '$500 a corner' tyres on my 18's and i don't want to chew them, so i need a product that can get me back to even tyre wear.

Judging from some of the responses in this thread, am i wrong to assume that 0 degree camber = even tyre wear? Is it actually not that logical?

If the whiteline kit can get me even tyre wear (what i'm concerned about more over performance) i'll get that, it just seemed like there wasn't enough change in degree's for that kit

cheers, and thanks for all the replies :thumbsup: A good source of info if i ever get into a bit more track work :P

daniel

For daily driving, the Whiteline camber bushes should be enough. 0deg camber will give you even wear if you only drive in a straight line, you need a bit of negative camber if you like corners, half the reason you have a skyline right?

Beer Baron or Roy: What are the Noltec arms like to adjust? Quick look says you just have to push the top of the wheel in/out... Or is there a simpler way?

I'm up for new upper arms soon as my dogbone ones are pretty rooted, so am considering the Noltec ones now :D

No issues with the bushes flogging out like stockers and Whiteline?

Edited by salad

yeah they are pretty easy to adjust. if you have small arms you can do it with wheel on even, but much easier with wheel off.

no problems with my bushes yet. give them a top up of grease before you whack them in. then do it whenever you get a chance. I think I did 1 pump per nozzle (4 nozzles obviously)

I reckon I'll be alright with 'em then, can adjust the dogbone ones with the wheel on. Taking the wheel on and off on a wheel alignment machine is too much of a pain in the arse for my liking ;)

Do they have any means of adjusting them easily like turning a nut/bolt? Or do you have to just physically push/pull to make it slide inside itself...

Anything along these lines?

upperarmbottom.jpg

No issues with the bushes flogging out like stockers and Whiteline?

My experience is that the whiteline adjustables lasted a week before the drivers side chewed out. No problems with the noltec thus far (~6 months). The Noltecs were installed by suspension experts who also did other work, the whitelines werent - no idea if that made a difference.

I've got near enough to '$500 a corner' tyres on my 18's and i don't want to chew them, so i need a product that can get me back to even tyre wear.

The -2 you have shouldnt be chewing out tyres, but -1 is more conservative. I suggest you go to a suspension specialist rather than a tyre shop for alignments tho - the competence and care level will probably be a lot higher.

I just ordered myself some Ikea Formula upper arms, after reading this i'm thinking I should have got the dogbone ones.

33 upper arms are a different shape. no dogbone shaped arms for 33 GTR. but i think the 33 design is a bit of an improvement anyway. you don't want the dog bone arms anyway. trust me! there are better options.

my experience is the noltec ones are horrendously overpriced and poorly made - the quality of the welding on the units that I ordered in (and promptly returned) was terrible. I run better welds than that, and I suck at welding.

The much cheaper dogbone arms gave me -3.5degrees and were very well made, even if they did come out of Taiwan. Adjustment is much easier - loosen the 2 locking rings and adjust via the turnbuckle, which also provides more accurate adjustments. Mine got full adjustment without touching inside the cuff. My car was street and track driven and the bearings didn't give me any problems. I'd buy them again for my next GTR without hesitation.

weird that we had such different experiences. you went from noltec ones to the dogbones, I tried the dogbones then went for the noltecs. I wont dispute the welding on the noltec arms wasn't exactly pretty or that their price is a little on the high side, but my first set of dogbone arms just didn't last long at all, and when removed one was slightly bent. the material used just didn't looks suitable and the bearings didn't last. the fact the two ends touched each other inside the cuff was another problem. The second set didn't do quite as bad but the bearings were noisy after only a fairly short period of use (i think 2 track days and about 500 or 600km). but they were a little better than the first set. but the noltecs gave me more adjustment, easy enough to adjust, and no bearing problems (well no bearings at all!).

each to their own I guess. :P

it is strange. mine were driven quite often on the street and a couple of track days. I had them in for about 6 months before I sold the car, so about 5,000km without any problem with the bearings.

I never used the Noltecs, sent them straight back as soon as I saw them. I wasn't prepared to pay top dollar for ordinary workmanship. but it certainly sounds like they work well enough.

33 upper arms are a different shape. no dogbone shaped arms for 33 GTR. but i think the 33 design is a bit of an improvement anyway. you don't want the dog bone arms anyway. trust me! there are better options.

I got a R32 GT-R. Any idea of adjusibily of the Ikea Formula arms?

I'm 90% sure ikeya don't make adjustable front R32 upper control arms. to be honest I didn't think the ikeya products were all that. they are ok, and fairly well prices but the cusco stuff is nicer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
    • Not sure yet.  Was considering speedtek because it was rated to 800hp, but when I did some research about him I don't think I will go for that🤣 So maybe giken gear set, but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough🙄
×
×
  • Create New...