Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Car Troubles

R33Gtst Driver

By R33Gtst Driver,
in Australian Capital Territory

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Michele Veteran

Michele

Posted
Posted
yeah that would be awsome if i could borrow/use them to test it out thanks heaps for all the help ppl i didnt expect this much help

Get used to it... you're in da family now LOL they're an awesome bunch here

mjfawke Collaborator

mjfawke

Posted
Posted
geezus, talk about appearing out of the woodwork Michael :ermm: Where have you been?

LOL. Around and about. Still catching up on missed sleep. If you ignore the terrible state of my car, I might even come out to the museum tonight (assuming it's on).

mjfawke Collaborator

mjfawke

Posted
Posted
I didnt say what kind of AFM it was I just said clean it... I know that it improves the response and smoothens the idle if you do it properly because I have done it on multiple RB25's and RB20's and it has worked everytime.

You said to 'clean the wire' - which doesn't exist in a Nissan AFM. The main sensor is deposited on an insulator parallel to the airflow, and the only wire is the ends of the resistor used as a temperature comparator. Yes, you can clean it all, but bloody carefully.

Bullet32 Veteran

Bullet32

Posted
Posted (edited)
You said to 'clean the wire' - which doesn't exist in a Nissan AFM. The main sensor is deposited on an insulator parallel to the airflow, and the only wire is the ends of the resistor used as a temperature comparator. Yes, you can clean it all, but bloody carefully.

Fair enough.

There is a very thin wire in my AFM aswell as a couple of other RB25 ones that I have cleaned recently, and it is nearly always covered in crap.

It always helps to clean your AFM regularly and for that reason I dont usually recommend using carbi cleaner because it can be corrosive, but just once shouldnt hurt it if you dont use to much of it...

I actually use CRC Automotive Electrical cleaner spray which is specifically formulated to not damaged the sensitive electronics and it works wonders. :ermm:

Edited by Bullet32
mjfawke Collaborator

mjfawke

Posted
Posted

Thin wire with a lump in the middle? That's the resistor (or perhaps a thermistor), which is documented by Bosch as "auxiliary temperature sensor". The actual sensor is on the flat insulator in front of the resistor. It works the same way as a hot-wire meter - but has a slower response time and isn't self cleaning. Can't be too bad - Porche uses these thin-film sensors as well.

sl33py Mentor

sl33py

Posted
Posted (edited)

Easy way to check it's the coils:

Pull the plastic cover off that hides the coilpacks/sparkplugs.

Wait for a hot/warm night.

Go for a very spirited drive where it is safe/quiet. I found that it was easiest for me to recreate the missing was to do 7 or 8 spirited 0-100's. Don't even need to smash the clutch up doing it, it's more the point that you're putting a LOT of load on the engine to heat it up, which is when the coils will miss.

Then pull over, pop the hood, stick your head in over the engine so you can see in where the coil packs are (careful).

You should be able to see little flashes of light where the coils are missing, because they actually miss while just idling too (maybe not if they are only just starting to go, but mine all but 4 of mine were buggered so it was easy to see). The reason you're doing this at night is so it's easy to see the flashes when the spark arcs to the block/wherever.

If you see the flashes, you know you're up for 500 bucks and most likely problem solved. And if I can change my coilpacks, anyone can :D

Edited by sl33py
  • 2 weeks later...
R33Gtst Driver Enthusiast

R33Gtst Driver

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks heap guys i found the problem i think >_< finally got my mate to check the fuel presure and it was low and when u squezed the regulator line nothing happened (at first) he kept doing it and then the pressure built up agian its running alot better now at 10 psi but i think it leans out around 13-15 psi im gonna get a new fuel pump and see how it goes any suggestions? on good brands? or performance ones?

ps hope u guys had a merry christmas and happy new year i did :)

datto260Z Experienced

datto260Z

Posted
Posted
LOL. Around and about. Still catching up on missed sleep. If you ignore the terrible state of my car, I might even come out to the museum tonight (assuming it's on).

Ahh cool. Im getting mine back on tuesday after a year off the road, cant wait. Oh and dont worry about rough looking, they will be on par at the moment. :P

R33Gtst Driver Enthusiast

R33Gtst Driver

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Hey guys

ok i had a look today for a fuel pump the only one i could find was from nissan i tryed auto pro and repco the didnt have a listing for it nissans one was an in tank one and they wanted $900 i was wondering does anyone know where i can one for a little bit cheaper? lol i dont really wanna spend $900 on a standard fuel pump

thanks in advance

Edited by R33Gtst Driver
R33Gtst Driver Enthusiast

R33Gtst Driver

Posted
  • Author
Posted
If you want I can probably get you a Bosch 040 in tank pump for between $300 - $350 or you can try calling the boys at Trojan, they'll be able to help out.

is that the one that good enough for 400hp?

TiTAN Grand Master

TiTAN

Posted
Posted

might want something a little bigger than a 040 if your looking for that kind of power

Bosch 040 http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.p...products_id=363

Bosch 044 http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.p...products_id=369

R33Gtst Driver Enthusiast

R33Gtst Driver

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

thanks titan i think ill get the 044 theres only like a $10 differnce so why not :D

splitfire coilpacks will solve your problem..

ill try them next how much are they? and were do you get them from?

Edited by R33Gtst Driver
Bullet32 Veteran

Bullet32

Posted
Posted

"might want something a little bigger than a 040 if your looking for that kind of power

Bosch 040 http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.p...products_id=363

Bosch 044 http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.p...products_id=369"

Bosch 040 is definately good for about 400hp when coupled with a decent pressure regulator, I personally know of a VL with an RB30DET that has 400hp at the wheels that is using an 040.

If youre looking for an in tank pump then you dont want an 044 because they're external, you will have to modify the fuel system to use an 044.

My recommendation is to source a Walbro in tank.

Talk to Trojan in Mitchell or ESP in Queanbeyan.

race_snooze Grand Master

race_snooze

Posted
Posted

Yes Trojan have them in stock, wont say the price as I get a little off most times, there is nothing wrong with walbro!!!!!!!!!! as long as its not the asian knock off type and with a little modifying they fit a straight swap.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • Kinkstaah
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...