Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well. yes kind of. it depends how tight it is and how tolerant you are of the noise.

basically, if it is tight it will "skip" in tight turns at low speed, eg every time you park in the Woolies car park. Personally it didn't worry me because the on track performance was so good, but mothers with strollers used to look at me like I was the devil

sorry to hi-jack - but whats a good to average 1.5 diff cost these days?

but mothers with strollers used to look at me like I was the devil

Duncan - dont blame them :happy:

yeah under 20 or even slower. at quicker speeds the wheels can sort themselves out and turns dont tend to be as tight.

yes you can tighten a mechanical diff by adding or changing shim thickness. but aftermarket ones will already be pretty tight

yeah under 20 or even slower. at quicker speeds the wheels can sort themselves out and turns dont tend to be as tight.

yes you can tighten a mechanical diff by adding or changing shim thickness. but aftermarket ones will already be pretty tight

Can you heel and toe?..

I know its quite hard to keep a 1.5 in cheak when you give it a hiding or in the wet and you dont heel and toe down gears.. compression lock up is a biatch..

Do u mean compression lock is a bitch on a 1.5way compared to a viscous diff or compared to a 2way?

If anyone wants a nice quiet streetable diff, go no further than a Nismo GT LSD Pro TT-Model 1.5way. It's the 'softer' model than the rest.

yeah i was looking into the Nismo GT LSD Pro TT-Model 1.5way, would anyone happen to know the life span of these diff before a rebuild is needed???

A lot longer than other diffs. 1) Because as they wear, you can adjust the preload to compensate and 2) they have a lower overall clamping force on the clutches than other diffs.

well looks like the diffs going in

thanks alot guys

cheers

if its a daily driver keep the viscous diff!!!

mine went from daily driver to weekend car as soon as the 1.5 way kaaz went in, but the nismo sounds nice

if i were you, i would take a ride in a car with a mech diff before you decide, its not the skipping thats the problem, its the *CLUNK CLUNK*, very loud!

and then you gotta try and convince everyone that its normal

if its a daily driver keep the viscous diff!!!

mine went from daily driver to weekend car as soon as the 1.5 way kaaz went in, but the nismo sounds nice

if i were you, i would take a ride in a car with a mech diff before you decide, its not the skipping thats the problem, its the *CLUNK CLUNK*, very loud!

and then you gotta try and convince everyone that its normal

??? Great back to square one???

thanks for the heads up champ

Any one else like to comment?

Just a couple of quick ones:

i also agree that you don't want a 1.5 way in a daily driver, particularly if you have any sort of subframe bush upgrades, pinapples or alloy collars. I'm sure people do it and are happy to do it but i think thats what pushed mine over the edge as far as being a nice car to drive around in.

Re the nismo wearing less and having adjustable preload. If it slips more (less preload) it wears the plates more. It's not infinitely adjustable either, there are 3 levels of preload so if it wears and you bump up the preload to the next step it's actually a bit of a jump, rather than a tweak. To tweak it you'd need to get it apart.

As an alternative, maybe consider a GTR rear end, they are a mechanical type lsd, 1 way and a bit looser than your average aftermarket diff so much nicer in the day to day grind, or even a torsen out of an s15. both options require a bit of work though and a few more bits swapped

They are a two way, not one way. I used to have a Nismo 1 way and it was very obnoxious. You do get used to it and you learn to drive around it a bit but everyone does look at you funny, which I quite enjoyed. Still, some days, maybe I was a bit tired or cranky, it would annoy me a lot. Now I have a full GTR rear end and it's much nicer on the street. The lock up on the track isn't as good but overall I would say that it's a better compromise for a street car.

To do this you need the diff centre, housing, half shafts, drive shafts and hubs from an R32 GTR. It all bolts up. I got the lot with rear subframe for $700 from a mate. SSS wanted $1200 so somewhere in between there is your window.

That said, I agree that you should get someone who has a 1.5 way or 1 way to take you for a little drive so you can see what it's like. Any old SAU type event should do or post up where you are and maybe someone from here lives nearby.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oof, I will forevermore have those shredded gears in mind whenever someone talks about showing mechanical sympathy towards their car. Thanks for the photos, fascinating stuff!
    • Curious to see how the SpeedTek stuff holds up
    • The holdups last year were drivetrain related. I had the car out right after getting the bearing issue resolved. Third launch and the car didn't move after releasing the clutch. It had sheared all the engagement teeth off the 1st gear.    Thankfully no other damage was done. I set an aftermarket gear beside an OEM gear and found that the engagement teeth on the OEM gear were much larger and better supported. Looking through my bin of spare transmission gears I found that there are two types of tooth on the OEM first gears - the larger tooth and the smaller tooth. It looks like most aftermarket gearset manufacturers base their design on the smaller tooth. OEM large tooth left - Speedtek, OS Giken, etc or OEM small tooth right Decided to give that larger engagement tooth a try. Pressed the ring off an OEM gear and sent it to a transmission manufacturer here in the States. They did their "faceplating" operation with my synchro ring on the Speedtek gear.   I reassembled it, took it back to the track and promptly destroyed the gear itself.  I'll rebuild this and use it as a spare - thankfully just first gear and the countershaft are damaged beyond repair. Definitely disheartening but my welded on engagement tooth ring held up!  Moved to Speedtek's dog engagement design as the gears appear to be much stronger. So far they have taken much more abuse at the track. Also scored a Stillway lockout from the Netherands for super cheap. It's for some other RB transmission so it took a bit of fabrication to fit but honestly a very easy job. I also had to heavily modify the gates as they were very different.   Then for some reason at the last test and tune a silicon coupler below the throttle blew off and took out the radiator and fan. Thankfully it was in the burnout box and not down track. This car is really beating me up - I still haven't made a pass in it. Ran it through the gears many times on the street but it keeps biting me at the track.  Currently in the process of replacing the radiator and remaking the throttle pipe to remove the coupler and use a cast 90 and a vband. I WILL get this thing down the track...
    • Covers most of the above points really. There's a few exceptions but most just see driving as an irritating but necessary task they must complete if they want to get anywhere on time. Also see it as a good time to show their awesome multi-tasking abilities on their mobile and/or doing their makeup.  
    • I don't believe I posted pictures of the second oil pump pickup I added so here they are. Data shows it gets oil pressure up to the relief pressure much earlier in the RPM. Is that important? Not likely... This was just another attempt to fix the bearing issues.   I also heavily opened up the inlet to the pump since it now had to flow oil from two pickups. I believe the diameter increased about 1/8".
×
×
  • Create New...