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Replacing A Fuel Filter : R33

joemac

By joemac,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

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joemac Apprentice

joemac

Posted
Posted (edited)

Replacing the fuel filter on a 1996 R33 GTST

This is my second post for replacing a filter. I've decided to repost as my last post for this was 2004 and all the pictures have been removed. And as usual do not attempt this unless you are confident in doing so. I accept no responsibility if you choose to follow these instructions.

Things required:

1. Stubby or short philips head screwdriver.

2. I used a Ryco Z201 filter but yours might be different. See further down for additional comments.

3. Water may be required to wash any spilt fuel.

Steps involved:

1. Ensure the engine is cold as you will lose some fuel in this process. The fuel filter is in a difficult location and will require some dextrous work to remove. If you are looking at the engine bay its located on the left hand side below and further back from the fuse box for those that dont know.

post-12241-1198735675_thumb.jpg

2. The engine manual suggests that you first need to reduce the fuel pressure (by removing a fuse). I skipped this part as I did not know which fuse to remove. I did however open the fuel cap (and hence reduce pressure) which substantially reduced the amount of leakage from the bottom pipe once the filter was removed. I have posted a picture of the fuse box below. Perhaps someone can indicate which fuse to remove for those that are interested?

post-12241-1198735753_thumb.jpg

3. The pipe that is attached to the fuel filter is significantly difficult to remove. My only suggestion is that you start at the bottom bracket where the hose seems to be easier to remove from the metal pipe. You have to try and break the seal so twisting and pulling is involved. Needless to say, you will probably lose some skin. Once the bottom hose is removed you can twist the fuel filter around to stop fuel leaking and then work on the top bracket.

post-12241-1198735788_thumb.jpg

4. Place the new filter on and fix the hoses in place. Ensure that there is enough of the hose over the lip on the stem of the fuel filter so you can re-tighten the clamp successfully. Also, there is an arrow on the fuel filter indicating the direction of flow. This should point up.

5. I then washed away any spilt fuel with some water

6. Started the engine and checked that there were no fuel leaks. Yes, the car may run a little rough for a minute but this is OK.

Since my last posting I have racked up 55,000k between filters. My previous posting forcast of every 10,000k was therefore a little optimistic. However, when I removed the old filter and attempted to blow air through it (after draining the remaining fuel) it was quite difficult and I had trouble getting more that say a 10% flow. The new filter was quite easy to force air through. Not sure if this is an indication of the deterioration of the filter or just that the new filter was dry?

A few other details;

1. The Ryco Z201 cost $22.00 from Autobarn

2. The guy at Autobarn told me you can also use the Ryco Z200 which retails for around $12.00 from memory. Below is a picture comparing the 2. I'll consider using the Z200 next time if it fits in the bracket OK (its a little slimmer than the Z201) unless someone can tell me why I shouldn't.

post-12241-1198735822_thumb.jpg

3. I've also read on the forum that you can use a Ryco Z387 but have not looked into this.

4. I opened up the old fuel filter (see pic) and it looked quite dirty so was probably doing its job.

post-12241-1198735868_thumb.jpg

Edited by joemac
  • Like 1
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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199227-replacing-a-fuel-filter-r33/
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W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted

I have a diagram for the fuse box inside the car, the is a note on the bottom of it saying there is an english diagram on the underside of the engine bay fuse box cover, it is 3am so im not going to check now, but if i was to take a guess i would say its the blue one ;)

  • 2 weeks later...
pkblade Experienced

pkblade

Posted
Posted
2. The engine manual suggests that you first need to reduce the fuel pressure (by removing a fuse). I skipped this part as I did not know which fuse to remove. I did however open the fuel cap (and hence reduce pressure) which substantially reduced the amount of leakage from the bottom pipe once the filter was removed. I have posted a picture of the fuse box below. Perhaps someone can indicate which fuse to remove for those that are interested?

post-12241-1198735753_thumb.jpg

The fuel pump fuse is located in the rear boot fuse box. The cover should show the following order of fuses from top to boottom:

65A - Main

45A - Blower

30A - 4WD/LSD

30A - IGN SW

15A - FUEL PUMP

20A - HEAD L RH

20A - HEAD L LH

10A - ALT S

10A - TAIL L

20A - HICAS

15A - AUDIO

  • 2 months later...
R33 S2 Collaborator

R33 S2

Posted
Posted

hey guys. just wondering if anyone has found a simple way of getting those hoses off. theres a fair bit of :) going on this end. any help would be much appreciated. i have already tried the hot water on a rag that i read in another thread!!

steve

oweban Grand Master

oweban

Posted
Posted
hey guys. just wondering if anyone has found a simple way of getting those hoses off. theres a fair bit of :D going on this end. any help would be much appreciated. i have already tried the hot water on a rag that i read in another thread!!

steve

Worst part is they're in a hard place, the best way I found was to just grab as hard as you can and just rotate it, don't worry about pulling it off for now. Once you've cracked the "seal" as such, then you can start rotating it and pulling it off. It's just doing the hard bit first.

End result, replaced with a Z200, and ended up with fuel everywhere cause i lost my grip on the bottom pipe. Oops.

Baz Experienced

Baz

Posted
Posted

Seriously man if your having trouble removing the hoses, just get a blade and cut a slit in the hose parallel to the travel of the hose. No need to do it the full length, just do it where it connects to the hard pipe. Probably not a bad thing to replace the fuel hose anyway which wears away over time anyway and cheap as hell. Saves the removing of skin problem as well.

I've replaced at least a hundred of these over the years and if spraying CRC and twisting the hose doesn't do it, I just cut it. Saves so much hassle and time.

Baz Experienced

Baz

Posted
Posted

Also a tip that I would suggest is to remove the bracket which holds the filter in place as well.

2x 10mm bolts that you can get to with a 1/4 drive rachet, small extension and a 10mm socket.

Allows easy access to the bottom part of the filter once you've pulled the top bit off

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...
mosquitocoils Veteran

mosquitocoils

Posted
Posted

Great tutorial, just did mine. I will add that I used a Z200 and it fit in the bracket fine.

Previous owner put a Z202 (The one to use for a Z32) in there, it just pushed the bracket open a little further but not so far that it permanently damaged it or anything. It seems it was last changed in 2006... so I hope this helps to richen up my ratio cause I'm running lean according to Conzult.

Will post back with any more info.

  • 4 weeks later...
JSTA33 Rising Star

JSTA33

Posted
Posted

just done mine, idles smoother (other filter was original i think).. starts easier too.

just a word of advice for everyone, dont buy 'fuel hose' if your replacing the hoses like i did, buy the heaviest duty/deerest 'fuel hose' rated to the highest psi you can find,

mine burst 3 times, left me stranded on the road.

  • 8 months later...
Duchie Enthusiast

Duchie

Posted
Posted

Yeh i would also advise to take the bracket off which gives you alot more space.

Also i found it was easy to get off by using the smallest flat head screw driver in the set and pushing the bottom of the hose away from the filter, breaking the seal, after this i just twisted and pulled off the hoses.

Thanks for the thread too btw

Just something i noticed was that my new Z200 filter looked like the one in your picture but my old Z200 looked more like the Z201 (shorter and fatter) and also had a nicer finish(like that of an oil filter)

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 10 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

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