Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Replacing the fuel filter on a 1996 R33 GTST

This is my second post for replacing a filter. I've decided to repost as my last post for this was 2004 and all the pictures have been removed. And as usual do not attempt this unless you are confident in doing so. I accept no responsibility if you choose to follow these instructions.

Things required:

1. Stubby or short philips head screwdriver.

2. I used a Ryco Z201 filter but yours might be different. See further down for additional comments.

3. Water may be required to wash any spilt fuel.

Steps involved:

1. Ensure the engine is cold as you will lose some fuel in this process. The fuel filter is in a difficult location and will require some dextrous work to remove. If you are looking at the engine bay its located on the left hand side below and further back from the fuse box for those that dont know.

post-12241-1198735675_thumb.jpg

2. The engine manual suggests that you first need to reduce the fuel pressure (by removing a fuse). I skipped this part as I did not know which fuse to remove. I did however open the fuel cap (and hence reduce pressure) which substantially reduced the amount of leakage from the bottom pipe once the filter was removed. I have posted a picture of the fuse box below. Perhaps someone can indicate which fuse to remove for those that are interested?

post-12241-1198735753_thumb.jpg

3. The pipe that is attached to the fuel filter is significantly difficult to remove. My only suggestion is that you start at the bottom bracket where the hose seems to be easier to remove from the metal pipe. You have to try and break the seal so twisting and pulling is involved. Needless to say, you will probably lose some skin. Once the bottom hose is removed you can twist the fuel filter around to stop fuel leaking and then work on the top bracket.

post-12241-1198735788_thumb.jpg

4. Place the new filter on and fix the hoses in place. Ensure that there is enough of the hose over the lip on the stem of the fuel filter so you can re-tighten the clamp successfully. Also, there is an arrow on the fuel filter indicating the direction of flow. This should point up.

5. I then washed away any spilt fuel with some water

6. Started the engine and checked that there were no fuel leaks. Yes, the car may run a little rough for a minute but this is OK.

Since my last posting I have racked up 55,000k between filters. My previous posting forcast of every 10,000k was therefore a little optimistic. However, when I removed the old filter and attempted to blow air through it (after draining the remaining fuel) it was quite difficult and I had trouble getting more that say a 10% flow. The new filter was quite easy to force air through. Not sure if this is an indication of the deterioration of the filter or just that the new filter was dry?

A few other details;

1. The Ryco Z201 cost $22.00 from Autobarn

2. The guy at Autobarn told me you can also use the Ryco Z200 which retails for around $12.00 from memory. Below is a picture comparing the 2. I'll consider using the Z200 next time if it fits in the bracket OK (its a little slimmer than the Z201) unless someone can tell me why I shouldn't.

post-12241-1198735822_thumb.jpg

3. I've also read on the forum that you can use a Ryco Z387 but have not looked into this.

4. I opened up the old fuel filter (see pic) and it looked quite dirty so was probably doing its job.

post-12241-1198735868_thumb.jpg

Edited by joemac
  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199227-replacing-a-fuel-filter-r33/
Share on other sites

I have a diagram for the fuse box inside the car, the is a note on the bottom of it saying there is an english diagram on the underside of the engine bay fuse box cover, it is 3am so im not going to check now, but if i was to take a guess i would say its the blue one ;)

  • 2 weeks later...
2. The engine manual suggests that you first need to reduce the fuel pressure (by removing a fuse). I skipped this part as I did not know which fuse to remove. I did however open the fuel cap (and hence reduce pressure) which substantially reduced the amount of leakage from the bottom pipe once the filter was removed. I have posted a picture of the fuse box below. Perhaps someone can indicate which fuse to remove for those that are interested?

post-12241-1198735753_thumb.jpg

The fuel pump fuse is located in the rear boot fuse box. The cover should show the following order of fuses from top to boottom:

65A - Main

45A - Blower

30A - 4WD/LSD

30A - IGN SW

15A - FUEL PUMP

20A - HEAD L RH

20A - HEAD L LH

10A - ALT S

10A - TAIL L

20A - HICAS

15A - AUDIO

  • 2 months later...

hey guys. just wondering if anyone has found a simple way of getting those hoses off. theres a fair bit of :) going on this end. any help would be much appreciated. i have already tried the hot water on a rag that i read in another thread!!

steve

hey guys. just wondering if anyone has found a simple way of getting those hoses off. theres a fair bit of :D going on this end. any help would be much appreciated. i have already tried the hot water on a rag that i read in another thread!!

steve

Worst part is they're in a hard place, the best way I found was to just grab as hard as you can and just rotate it, don't worry about pulling it off for now. Once you've cracked the "seal" as such, then you can start rotating it and pulling it off. It's just doing the hard bit first.

End result, replaced with a Z200, and ended up with fuel everywhere cause i lost my grip on the bottom pipe. Oops.

Seriously man if your having trouble removing the hoses, just get a blade and cut a slit in the hose parallel to the travel of the hose. No need to do it the full length, just do it where it connects to the hard pipe. Probably not a bad thing to replace the fuel hose anyway which wears away over time anyway and cheap as hell. Saves the removing of skin problem as well.

I've replaced at least a hundred of these over the years and if spraying CRC and twisting the hose doesn't do it, I just cut it. Saves so much hassle and time.

Also a tip that I would suggest is to remove the bracket which holds the filter in place as well.

2x 10mm bolts that you can get to with a 1/4 drive rachet, small extension and a 10mm socket.

Allows easy access to the bottom part of the filter once you've pulled the top bit off

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

Great tutorial, just did mine. I will add that I used a Z200 and it fit in the bracket fine.

Previous owner put a Z202 (The one to use for a Z32) in there, it just pushed the bracket open a little further but not so far that it permanently damaged it or anything. It seems it was last changed in 2006... so I hope this helps to richen up my ratio cause I'm running lean according to Conzult.

Will post back with any more info.

  • 4 weeks later...

just done mine, idles smoother (other filter was original i think).. starts easier too.

just a word of advice for everyone, dont buy 'fuel hose' if your replacing the hoses like i did, buy the heaviest duty/deerest 'fuel hose' rated to the highest psi you can find,

mine burst 3 times, left me stranded on the road.

  • 8 months later...

Yeh i would also advise to take the bracket off which gives you alot more space.

Also i found it was easy to get off by using the smallest flat head screw driver in the set and pushing the bottom of the hose away from the filter, breaking the seal, after this i just twisted and pulled off the hoses.

Thanks for the thread too btw

Just something i noticed was that my new Z200 filter looked like the one in your picture but my old Z200 looked more like the Z201 (shorter and fatter) and also had a nicer finish(like that of an oil filter)

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 10 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...