Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Will Button have another hack year? LOL, the guy seemed to be over it last year, and even though his year was much worse then Webbers, Webber is always soundign hungry for a result and disappointed when the pace or relaibility wasnt there. Button didnt seem to care.

But most of all will be the new pairings. Jr v Alonso and Heiki vs Louise

Will Button have another hack year? LOL, the guy seemed to be over it last year, and even though his year was much worse then Webbers, Webber is always soundign hungry for a result and disappointed when the pace or relaibility wasnt there. Button didnt seem to care.

But most of all will be the new pairings. Jr v Alonso and Heiki vs Louise

Who's Jr?

Don't get it why Alonso wants to go back to Renault now. >_<

What was the news about Alonso? Anybody refresh my memory? :dry:

Jr is Nelson Piquet Jr, possibly one of the most over rated drivers on the grid this year (imho) Alonso wanted him as a team mate so that he wouldn't have any competition (a la Lewis) and got Renault to get rid of Hiekki to accommodate him.

Alonso is back a Renault because he wants Flavio to stroke his Ego and blow smoke up his arse about how good he is.

If the Honda management goes totally hands off and lets Ross Brawn do his job, then I can see Honda making great steps forward this year, as long as the car isn't totally shithouse like last years, and they can get a good test/development driver into the team.

Alonso is back a Renault because he wants Flavio to stroke his Ego and blow smoke up his arse about how good he is.

not forgetting that he won 2 GP drivers championships there

but obviously that's history anyway

God... the front of the new F2008 is horrible, its like it gets worse and worse every year. You'd think with all the money they have there would be a more elegant solution to attaching a wing to the nose. The intakes and bargeboards do look nice tho, but the new MP4-23 gets released today... cant wait

I think the single lap pace of drivers will not change much, even without TC. Sure there may be a few errors here and there when the pressure is on. But they are all talented guys and i dont see it being a great leveller between the quicker and weaker teams. Especially after an off season of testing

Where i see it making a big difference is over the race distance. I think some will pick it up quicker then others and be able to get their tyres to wear better. So it may mean that pit strategies are a little less flexible now because drivers will be torching tyres when they are trying to bridge a gap

Bring on testing and Honda once again being pace setters :D Only to... :yes:

I think the single lap pace of drivers will not change much, even without TC. Sure there may be a few errors here and there when the pressure is on. But they are all talented guys and i dont see it being a great leveller between the quicker and weaker teams. Especially after an off season of testing

Where i see it making a big difference is over the race distance. I think some will pick it up quicker then others and be able to get their tyres to wear better. So it may mean that pit strategies are a little less flexible now because drivers will be torching tyres when they are trying to bridge a gap

While what you have said will be true for the guys who have real talent, I do think that it will be a leveller for the rest of the field.....over the years that the cars have had TC the amount of times it cuts in during a corner when they show incar footage staggered me. Now that the driver will have to step up and actually control an F1 car around a corner whilst maintaining tyres etc I think we will see the talent seperated from the rest.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...