Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

no knees :) literally, in every sense of the word (dbl patellectomy + tibial tuberosity transfers).

most I can 'physically' squat is like 1/10th the way down.

wedged patella tendons through the tibia just wont support body weight :(

squats are out of the question, and deadlifts really make my legs try to 'collapse' in at the kneejoint during the lift.

while I understand these basic exercises, plus a couple others (pullups, dips,) are the backbone to making gains, in my particular case it just doesnt seem worth it (risk, that is).

hence calf raise, ham curl, lightish leg etxn, leg press if the tendons arnt black and bruised ;p

just getting back to Marcos's post.

Whilst I understand the point he is making and don't disagree with it.

But his info is a little off. A quick google turned out that Clancy Ross won all the things he spoke of in the 1940s. Anabolic Steroids were first synthesised in 1930. Now there is no evidence that says he was using steroids, but there is a strong possibility that he was on them.

Only reason I bring this up is because i am a little anal about the details. I didn't look at all the others though.

*Edit: In regards to Max and his 3 liters of milk a day. How many protein shakes was he having per day when he went off the milk and lost strength? I only say this because milk is full of fats and calories as well as some protein. 3 liters depending on the brand is around 1800 calories, the protein i take with water is around 130 calories. Only ask because (with my limited knowledge and please correct me if i am wrong) but in regards to lifting big numbers more calories from decent food sources help gain strength, have seen this with myself to some degree but with my cousin mostly. When he goes on a bulk diet his strength goes through the roof, the moment he cuts it drops.

Again, I agree with the point of the article. Eat well, train hard gains the results, there is no magic pill

Edited by -FIGJAM-

Tangles and jangles?

I'm guessing you can't do lunges...can you walk or run with a heavy weight? E.g. Weighted backpack, dumbells in hand or barbell across your back? These will activate quad without (I hope) stressing your knee joints too much.

Squats are essential for big weights and development, but you can still make decent gains without them.

Your body isnt going to be digesting a steak you ate before, when you are working out... Your body will go into sympathetic nervous system arousal which will divert most of the blood flow from the GI tract and slow digestion. When the amino acids are already in free form they are going to be alot more easily absorbed because they dont need to be broken down anywhere near as much so they will get into your system quickly(despite the limited digestive activity).

They arent meant to replace good nutrition throughout the day by any means, they are just a supplement to use around your workout time. Leucine is a good muscle protein synthesis stimulator, so having it readily available around the time of your session is going to be adventageous in reducing skeletal muscle catabolism.

No, your body won't be digesting the steak you ate before, but the protein source you ate many hours before is already broken down into these "free form" aminos.

Although workouts are the most catabolic period of your day, catabolism as a whole is a bit of a laugh when people think it's serious enough that you'll start to waste away in a few hours.

If anything, I would be worried about carb intake post workout as this will aid in the increased insulin response by the body to carry post workout protein to the muscles.

But then again, all of this is just a bit of a laugh if you look deeper into the science of energy production in the body from food sources, and the lactic acid & ATP-PCr energy systems in particular (think regeneration.. )

no knees :) literally, in every sense of the word (dbl patellectomy + tibial tuberosity transfers).

most I can 'physically' squat is like 1/10th the way down.

wedged patella tendons through the tibia just wont support body weight :(

I still can't get over the fact a surgeon took your knees... I have no idea how you train at all let alone still manage to train legs... all the bro curlers should die of shame watching you do leg press

Fig Jam, the Russians started using a crude form of Test for lifters in 1954

Dr John Zeigler, after talking to the Russians, decided it was too harsh, so he came up with Dianobol, the first ever steroid, test is a hormone

It was first given to Bill March around 1960. Bill blew up in size, and because no one knew about it (D Bol) back then, Hoffman used Bill March to sell programs

Bill was a weightlifter, they all were, but he started to look like a bodybuilder. Zeigler would only give him one tab a day (50mg) I think, and he would make him drive to his office every day for another one. He didnt trust athletes.

On his death bed, Dr John Zeigler announced he regretted what he started and was disappointed at the abuse of steroids.

So if your anal about details, surely you knew that Dianobol, the first steroid, was created until 1958 by Dr John Zeigler

The first documented use of hormones (testotserone) by lifters is the Russian weightlifting team in 1954 and the 1956 Olympics, of which they didnt deny.

Zeigler sold the rights to D Bol to Ciba for $50. Ciba havent made D Bol for decades.

I use wendlers 531 program to train with. you know enough here haha

I started off training for 5 months, using the 531

Learnt deads, squats and military's from scratch.

After that I ended up with

Bench 1.69

Deads 2.46

Squats 1.97

Military 1.05

cycling carbs and fats, fasting for 16 feeding for 8

Saying they can't eat now, that's probably an issue because my pwo is up around 2000kcal. Took me a week or two to get used to this, round an hour to eat it. Now I inhale food. Ate 3x more food to lose 10kg fat.

The science behind it also is that, a carb is a carb. So if you need a supp, cereal, desserts.

on my non gym days I eat more fats and don't intentionally eat carbs.

Typical gym day for me is 200 P, 370C, 90F

Off days are I just cut carbs and eat fattier meats.

I only train for around 4 hours a week.

it's commonly used to get lean muscle, I'm 10kg lighter and still gaining strength.

I've gained 3kg since I originally lost the fat. And am leaner still.

I eat 'dirty' foods with no guilt

Thanks for the response big guy, it lets me analyze if the way we do it is good/better. Unfortunately you use bodyweight %, which are useless, and why formulas are used in lifting, as lighter guy do better on that because bigger guys have more bone, which doesnt lift weight. Anyway, I'll work with I've got.

I'll just use members of my family, as I know exactly what and how often they eat

Jesse, 18, 70kg, 6 meals a day, protein, carb, fat in each meal

Max, 20, 86kg, 7-8 meals a day, protein every meal, carb and fat in most

Nina, 47, 57kg, 5 meals a day, protein, mimimal carbs, fat in each meal

Jesse squat 165kg@70kg - 2.35%

Max squat 250kg@86kg - 2.90%

Nina squat 125kg@57kg - 2.19%

You...................................1.97%

Jesse deadlift 195kg@70kg - 2.78%

Max deadlift 250kg@86kg - 2.90%

Nina deadlift 142.5kg@56kg - 2.50%

You.......................................2.46%

Jesse bench 110kg@70kg - 1.57%

Max bench 155kg@86kg - 1.80%

Nina bench 77.5kg@57kg - 1.35%

You......................................1.69%

Military press, Max and Jesse do over bodyweight, Nina can only do 50kg

So while your way appears to be doing okay for you, I cant see anything that would make me switch from what we've been doing. Jesse has only just started to lift seriously, he's a basketballer who plays his last ever game on Sunday, he'll be competing in PL next year so I imagine his progress will soar. He powercleaned 90kg@64kg and 17yo, he was training differently then.

And next time, if you ever want to compare on here or with mates in the gym, use this

http://www.ptcfrankston.com/glossbrennercalculator.html

Its designed simply for weight training

Cheers

Thanks for the response big guy, it lets me analyze if the way we do it is good/better. Unfortunately you use bodyweight %, which are useless, and why formulas are used in lifting, as lighter guy do better on that because bigger guys have more bone, which doesnt lift weight. Anyway, I'll work with I've got.

I'll just use members of my family, as I know exactly what and how often they eat

Jesse, 18, 70kg, 6 meals a day, protein, carb, fat in each meal

Max, 20, 86kg, 7-8 meals a day, protein every meal, carb and fat in most

Nina, 47, 57kg, 5 meals a day, protein, mimimal carbs, fat in each meal

Jesse squat 165kg@70kg - 2.35%

Max squat 250kg@86kg - 2.90%

Nina squat 125kg@57kg - 2.19%

You...................................1.97%

Jesse deadlift 195kg@70kg - 2.78%

Max deadlift 250kg@86kg - 2.90%

Nina deadlift 142.5kg@56kg - 2.50%

You.......................................2.46%

Jesse bench 110kg@70kg - 1.57%

Max bench 155kg@86kg - 1.80%

Nina bench 77.5kg@57kg - 1.35%

You......................................1.69%

Military press, Max and Jesse do over bodyweight, Nina can only do 50kg

So while your way appears to be doing okay for you, I cant see anything that would make me switch from what we've been doing. Jesse has only just started to lift seriously, he's a basketballer who plays his last ever game on Sunday, he'll be competing in PL next year so I imagine his progress will soar. He powercleaned 90kg@64kg and 17yo, he was training differently then.

And next time, if you ever want to compare on here or with mates in the gym, use this

http://www.ptcfrankston.com/glossbrennercalculator.html

Its designed simply for weight training

Cheers

Cheers, I never was comparing to anyone on here or lifters, just saying IF for me works and from everything I've read, my gains are high for 5 months of training.

Thanks for pointing out my squats lack too haha! I already knew that.

I'm also not training for anything in particular, I just do an eating protocol and progression program at the gym, nothing serious about it.

Many ways to skin a cat. and I know you know more than I ever will, youre one of the best in the business, which is why I was confused at you asking about it, now I see why.

Edited by jangles

Some people just don't have time for 6-8 meals around work, for example I got called out yesterday before afternoon meal, was still lying in the mud til past dinner time, you can't just get up and say sorry mate just going to stop, wash myself and eat while the driver is sitting there waiting to go! I still got all my Macros in for that day though.

Bye bye, youre correct, and I have slogans on my wall for every situation. I could pick a few for your situation, but I'll keep it nice

Mitch, when they do PPP, its 5's down to triples, doubles, singles

If doing linear progression, we start at 10's and work down to our openers the week before the comp

We use Bill Starr's 5 x 5 off season or GVT (10x10 - 1m rest)

Not one lifter here, or any of the 16 that went to Worlds, have had any success with 5-3-1, some use Sheiko, Westside, Shmolov

20 rep squats

bodyweight benching for reps

It really depends on what part of our training cycle were on, but we've tried most things, we keep what works and discard the rest.

Max recently wrote out a linear progression program for Alen. Alen totaled 570kg at Nats in June, he should go over 620kg in November at ProRawFour

It was a 10 week program. Recent lifts this week were 230kg squat and 150kg bench. He's attempting 240kg deadlift tonight.

So even though his program started with highish reps, it was always strength focused, he started at sets of 10

No Birds, cant run, cant lunge.

Add to that I try not to carry too much 'weight' as the legs arnt all that stable.

Long lever joints (2 metres tall) and no knees isnt good, lol

Not much else I can do bar what I mentioned previously I guess. Oh, and T-man, riding f**ks me up, hahaha!

all's good.

BoJangles, you should post up your bodyweight and lifts because the Glossbrenner calculator may favour you more

He did on the last page..

71kg 179cm

BP 120KG 1RM

DL 175KG 1RM

SQ 140KG 1RM

OP 75KG 1RM

Brendan - I'd say that you have the only valid reason this side of a paraplegic to not do leg work.

Chins, dips, bench, rows and you'll be right..

BoJangles, those lifts are pretty good mate, but waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too skinny lol

Max is 86kg@173cm and he is trying to lift in the 100's next year

I know youre not interested in PL, but I can only imagine how skinny you are

Oh, and if you can MP 75kg@71kg, properly, thats a very impressive lift. If you could film it for me I would love that, motivate some of my lazy f**kers lol

BoJangles, those lifts are pretty good mate, but waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too skinny lol

Max is 86kg@173cm and he is trying to lift in the 100's next year

I know youre not interested in PL, but I can only imagine how skinny you are

Oh, and if you can MP 75kg@71kg, properly, thats a very impressive lift. If you could film it for me I would love that, motivate some of my lazy f**kers lol

I'm pretty lean, but that's what I set out to do and that's why I use the IF approach, lean muscle gains. I know I could increase body weight quite a bit, but at present it doesn't interest me looking big and not lifting big. Was only lifting for 5 months when achieving those

I haven't done 1rm on that weight for a while, stopped doing OP due to injury. In all honesty it wouldn't be impressive to view on video, I used a belt and I'm sure your lifters don't need motivation.

Edited by jangles

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
×
×
  • Create New...