Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

this is my first post so forgive me if its in the wrong section. I've recently purchased a Fully stock 93 R32 GTR and wondered what sort of oil pressure i should expect as it seems a little low, also the car is pretty sluggish and unresponsive until it reaches higher revs before it warms up, is this normal? Apart from this it drives like a dream, no obvious issues elsewhere, are the problems related? When the engine starts it'll sit about the 2-3 (out of a max of 8) mark but settles lower after a few mins!

Any feedback is appreciated!

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202418-oil-pressure/
Share on other sites

Yeah a lot of the oil senders are broken with time

Worry when the red light comes on

In the meantime you can get a mechanical guage hooked up for peace of mind

Keep the revs down (and dont use heaps of throtle) before the oil gets to the first notch on the middle dials

:blink:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202418-oil-pressure/#findComment-3594214
Share on other sites

The reason the car will feel sluggish is the ECU dragging ignition advance out of the engine when it is cold. It is trying to tell you not to hammer the poor thing until it gets warm!

Replacing the sender unit is neither hard, nor particularly expensive. Order a new one up from Nissan & install it on your next oil change. $200 should see you right. From expereince it doesn't matter how many times you tell yourself not to worry about the pressure you still cant get it out of your head. :blink:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202418-oil-pressure/#findComment-3594225
Share on other sites

The reason the car will feel sluggish is the ECU dragging ignition advance out of the engine when it is cold. It is trying to tell you not to hammer the poor thing until it gets warm!

Replacing the sender unit is neither hard, nor particularly expensive. Order a new one up from Nissan & install it on your next oil change. $200 should see you right. From expereince it doesn't matter how many times you tell yourself not to worry about the pressure you still cant get it out of your head. :D

My mechanic says that when cold, the gauge will reflect twice the relative value of engine rev. aka 2k rev = 4k oil pressure, 4k rev= 8k pressure... oil pressure being kilogram per cm^2. aka 4kg per centimetre ^2 = normal for 2000 revs.... course, this depends totally on ur oil, the gauge and the position of the sensor. seriously if u got a gauge like that, it means stuff all without taking into consideration the oil, the oil temp and how old the oil is, how much you've warmed yr baby up etc....

And engines aint engines... cars always feel sluggish for at least 10 minutes as the ECU purposely restricts the ratio. even when u floor the accelerator, the ecu will limit the fuel/air... thats its job.course u can override it, but is it wise? Best to let it at least warm up for 15 mins before even cranking it over 6k. Thats my opinion anyhow, tho im no mechanic. But im superstitious and sometimes when I fang the car and nurse it, it comes to me, it comes to me in my dreams and says "Oh u PIMP, i LOVE u, pls for to be pimpin me some more"

...

And so I do :blink:

-D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202418-oil-pressure/#findComment-3595282
Share on other sites

THIS IS A HUGE ISSUE hope i diddnt miss read ur post but hell man i just bought my gtr a couple months back i start it let it sit for 5 minutes before i budge it then i keep it under three for the next 10 minutes.... call me over careful but these engines cos a bit to fix when mistreated! most damage caused to all engines is when its cold let alone turbo ones so baby it untill oil and water hits running temp. and always puppy it before u get home and let it idle down for a couple minutes when u get home. owning a gtr is a big responsability especially one as old as an r32.

as far as your question my oil pressure guage reads similar.

good luck and safe driving

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202418-oil-pressure/#findComment-3595324
Share on other sites

THIS IS A HUGE ISSUE hope i diddnt miss read ur post but hell man i just bought my gtr a couple months back i start it let it sit for 5 minutes before i budge
This is THE WORST treatment for a modern engine. Excess fuel thins the oil, washes oil from the cylinder walls. The spark plugs run cold and carbon up.

Just fire it up and get moving ... GENTLY (under 3k), until the engine shows a reasonable temp on the gauge.

it then i keep it under three for the next 10 minutes.... call me over careful but these engines cos a bit to fix when mistreated! most damage caused to all engines is when its cold let alone turbo ones so baby it untill oil and water hits running temp. and always puppy it before u get home and let it idle down for a couple minutes when u get home. owning a gtr is a big responsability especially one as old as an r32.

as far as your question my oil pressure guage reads similar.

good luck and safe driving

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202418-oil-pressure/#findComment-3595484
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

It may also depend on the type, grade, quality and age of the oil being used.

I just did an oil change to Mobil1 5W-50 SuperSyn. Cold start shows around 6. Cruise, it will sit all day at 4. Might drop a bit at idle (maybe 2).

(This is a RB25DET)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202418-oil-pressure/#findComment-3653294
Share on other sites

THIS IS A HUGE ISSUE hope i diddnt miss read ur post but hell man i just bought my gtr a couple months back i start it let it sit for 5 minutes before i budge it then i keep it under three for the next 10 minutes....

:)

This is HORRIBLE advice.

Get the thing moving as soon as you get it started. It'll warm up the oil and water a lot faster, and also warm up the oil in your gearbox and differentials. Keep it under 4000-ish rpm until it reaches normal operating temperature.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202418-oil-pressure/#findComment-3655288
Share on other sites

This is THE WORST treatment for a modern engine. Excess fuel thins the oil, washes oil from the cylinder walls. The spark plugs run cold and carbon up.

Just fire it up and get moving ... GENTLY (under 3k), until the engine shows a reasonable temp on the gauge.

hahaha so right agreed man

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202418-oil-pressure/#findComment-3664698
Share on other sites

I was concerned 'bout the pressure on my R33 GTR. It never went above 4.5 and sometimes dips under 1 bar :)

So I bought a cheap AutoGauge pressure gauge to keep an eye on it. It was the stock gauge in my case. Around 2 Bar both read about the same. But above 3-4 the AutoGauge keeps climing to 6-6.5 where the stock one stops at about 4.5. Also on days when it drops below one the autogauge still reads 2+. On those days the stock gauge never goes above 2.5 but the AutoGauge still reads ok all the way to 6.5. I have no idea why some days the stock gauge does that and other days its ok.

Personally, I have too much invested in my car to have it malfunction due to oil issues. Oil problems are a definite way to stuff the motor.

Well, at least I have peace of mind now. If ur interested I bought the AutoGauge smoke face 52mm for $27 + 6 shipping to Sydney from an online shop (PM if you want the details). I was doing an oil cooler and remote at the same time so I didn't have to really fuss with a special adapter for the oil pressure sender unit.

Edited by Pezhead
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202418-oil-pressure/#findComment-3673737
Share on other sites

Shouldn't the Oil Pressure gauge be quite high on start up? Its gota get the oil pumping through the system and after warm up the pressure drops.

djr81 Thats quite interesting on what you said, I never new that.

Edited by (00)SKYLINE(00)
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202418-oil-pressure/#findComment-3673757
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...