Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 204
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeha that beat sonic is for the a/m stereo... not sure what it does however but enough about him

moar about what wire is for the antenna amp power :)

I am trying to remember what I did.

The power for the antena I picked up of the one of the wires at the back, purple keeps ringing a bell.

I ran the power for the tuner from the cigarette lighter.

what the gooligooo goo is this thing.. its in behind the navi unit where i have a jungle of wires

google gives me no love

post-31456-1246496096_thumb.jpg

theres been an aftermarket radio in there at some stage. that is a bose integration piece to get the TV/navi audio back into the aftermarket unit. its a $300 piece!

(I sell them.)

ok all good, everything works ok power wise. but the picture no good.. is on ntsc also.. was on pal as i trialed it in my room before the car

post-31456-1246514266_thumb.jpg

set it on NTSC and it will work. thats a standard thing with those tuners.

  • 1 month later...

Hi guys,

I was unlucky enough to get my Axis without a Nav unit. However I was lucky enough to find a V35 half cut with a system installed that I was able to swap out for $300. I have pretty much everything except the TV antenna's. I have wired the DVD unit to the screen(as I had to cut the loom and have that working minus the TV tuner and CAN(yet to be connected/wired). I would like to connect a carputer running Centrafuse, and TV tuner into the system. Control for the carputer will be via a 6.5 or 7" touch screen digitizer mounted onto the factory screen. Any help would be appreciated. I have the V35 NAV system manual/wiring schematics if anyone else needs to venture down this path.

A little trick I picked up tonight was how to reset your Airbag light when it flashes faulty. I disconnected the yellow plug on to of the glove box by mistake.

1.turn key on untill airbag light goes out

2.turn key off for over 3 sec

3.repeat 4 times

4.fault code is reset.

Cheers

Matt

Hey chris, i've still not got that tv thing working..

tho my antenna wires are way too short and i have to work out something to do there..

i'll try get the antennas connected and see if it will work..

true. unless I have you confused with someone else you had the OEM navi with a Alpine TV tuner and bruno was doing the job alongside a few euro cars at a peugeot dealership.

if that was you then the things not going to work. if its not then I'm confused.

  • 3 months later...

Decided to give this a try once more.. fixed my short antenna cable problems..

Using an external House Tv i have it set on Pal and things are great..

switch it back over to NTSC the tv in the M35 still does not work properly. image is all over the place and unreadable at times.

Aspect ratio a problem? I've tried every setting i can possibly try on the unit.

Cant seem to get the tv working at all. i am guessing its a problem with my M35's tv?? could that box on the previous page be causing problems??

post-31456-1261371618_thumb.jpgpost-31456-1261371644_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...