Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 N1 Headlights

subie

By subie,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
Have a look at daves headlights :P

Not the reflector part, but the part next to it on the inside :D

all parts of the N1 lights are reflectors. there are no projectors in there. and no HIDs from factory, dave's may have some in there but I can almost promise they aren't factory.

  • 10 months later...
Jez13 Mentor

Jez13

Posted
Posted
all parts of the N1 lights are reflectors. there are no projectors in there. and no HIDs from factory, dave's may have some in there but I can almost promise they aren't factory.

i know...old thead - but its better than creating a new one. I have the N1's and need to put bulbs in the inner section. Would they be the same as the S13 silvia bulbs? I like the yellow ones so it would be cool if they were s13's.

  • 4 weeks later...
L.B. Community Regular

L.B.

Posted
Posted (edited)
hey im like 99% sure these are N1 headlights they have the bracket for the grill but look completly different to the ones shown on the 1st page!

Mate sorry to be an ice breaker. Your are most likely Type M headlights with projectors.

The Clips for the GTR grill were an option.

N1 doesn't have projectors and clearly the set you have isn't the case.

This should be the N1 headlights

2nvbknl.jpg

Edited by L.B.
  • 7 months later...
levizzle Community Regular

levizzle

Posted
Posted

Hopefully someone can read this and answer, I have the non projector N1 headlights but the lights closest to the grill, which are the fog lights, dont have any globes in them or even back covers.

Can someone tell me which globes are supposed to fit in there and if anyone has the back screw cover for this part, I would like that too :-)

thanks

Jez13 Mentor

Jez13

Posted
Posted
Hopefully someone can read this and answer, I have the non projector N1 headlights but the lights closest to the grill, which are the fog lights, dont have any globes in them or even back covers.

Can someone tell me which globes are supposed to fit in there and if anyone has the back screw cover for this part, I would like that too :-)

thanks

I have the same problem with mine. I wanted to put yellow ones in like the S13 silvia's - but alas, no connections on the headlight. Kinda seems pointless having the thing designed like its supposed to house a globe but you can't put one in! I must say they are the best looking of the 32 lights though.

levizzle Community Regular

levizzle

Posted
Posted

Dumb isnt it, where did they all go?! I reckon if someone could tell me what globe goes in the fog light part I could hook them up some how. I wonder if any other car has something that would fit the back.

  • 1 year later...
blue_vl_t Rising Star

blue_vl_t

Posted
Posted

I figure its best to post here rather than make a new topic, so..

I have N1 headlights in my r32 GTR apparently, they look like N1 headlights, as the ones pictured above.

But they do not have the brackets for the grill....

there are two screw holes on each headlight where the grill bracket would mount to, with the screws half wound in.

So what i'm asking if anyone can look at theirs, are these genuine N1 headlights that someone has flogged the brackets off,

or are they early non projector lights and all of this style have the screw holes for the GTR grill.

I heard someone says they weigh less, anyone know what weight they should be.

and lastly, any chance of getting hold of these brackets, otherwise i'll have to fabricate something up??

cheers ahead

R.3.2.G.T.R Grand Master

R.3.2.G.T.R

Posted
Posted

I figure its best to post here rather than make a new topic, so..

I have N1 headlights in my r32 GTR apparently, they look like N1 headlights, as the ones pictured above.

But they do not have the brackets for the grill....

there are two screw holes on each headlight where the grill bracket would mount to, with the screws half wound in.

So what i'm asking if anyone can look at theirs, are these genuine N1 headlights that someone has flogged the brackets off,

or are they early non projector lights and all of this style have the screw holes for the GTR grill.

I heard someone says they weigh less, anyone know what weight they should be.

and lastly, any chance of getting hold of these brackets, otherwise i'll have to fabricate something up??

cheers ahead

brackets are available, look up yahoo auction, seen em around there

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • Duncan
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By Duncan · Posted

      That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...