Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, i have a 99 rs4 prime ed, already have a cooler, pod, and elec boost cont., keen to spend around $2000 in the coming weeks on it, just asking ppl's opinion on what mods to do without going over my budget, any input would be nice.

Russ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204659-best-value-upgrades/
Share on other sites

got a turbo back exhaust? if so, this and a jaycar DFA(jump in the DIY sticky and look at the jaycar thread) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ba...html&hl=GCG

done suspension? spend the 2k on sydneykid's group buy

Brakes?

At least do the minimum of braided lines, new fluid and better pads.

If you wanna aim higher, some R32 GT-R or R33 GTSt brakes (which are the same) would be a good start. They're 4-spot on the front and 2-spot on the rear (standard Stagea is 2-spot front, 1-spot rear).

+11ty

for instant "yay I love my new mod" gratification, nothing beats a wicked set of upgraded brakes. Even just a change to braided line, slotted rotors and some new quality fluid and pads.

Seeing I have done mods in both the brake, engine, suspension and interior department, I will recommend the following in the following order.

Swaybars - $400

Castor bushes - $100

Bilstein shocks - $900 for all 4

Automatic shift kit - $450

Braided lines - $400 (If money permits :stupid:)

It really depends on the type of person you are though, if you like handling, straight line, comfort etc. I like handling

Seeing I have done mods in both the brake, engine, suspension and interior department, I will recommend the following in the following order.

Swaybars - $400

Castor bushes - $100

Bilstein shocks - $900 for all 4

Automatic shift kit - $450

Thats pretty much what l'm doing over the next month or so. There's a place in melb that does the shift kit for $400 installed (inc service on box).

Then just a FMIC and l'm done for a while.

Brakes l'll change when pads and disc's start wearing down. I don't drive hard so having slotteds & so forth isn't a priority atm.

power fc you will get better fuel economy and go faster.

genuis for an auto :banana: power FC is a good way to kill trannys, do a search

Thats pretty much what l'm doing over the next month or so. There's a place in melb that does the shift kit for $400 installed (inc service on box).

Then just a FMIC and l'm done for a while.

Brakes l'll change when pads and disc's start wearing down. I don't drive hard so having slotteds & so forth isn't a priority atm.

knox automatics? come for a ride if you want to see what it will be like before you buy, not gentle, but i like it.

MMMMM?

I'm just doing split dump and hi flo cat, 3". Also the little mod on the intake and a new O2 sensor and a Jaycar DFA.

Got my centre gauge holder for three. Moved the single Din unit to the bottom slot.

Have not gone for a pod, but have a Red Line panel with a cold air deflector.

At present i'm running a two stage (factory) boost control that I'm still working on. I want to devise a system that can use

both the factory settings with a preset MBC. A couple of valves and 12 volt actuators should do the trick. I know an EBC etc

can do the same, but I like the idea of lateral thinking??

At the next Qld meet I "hope" to have a lot of these ideas working, and hope to get some constructive input.

Suspension and brakes come next because I want engine management before I progress.

Greddy Emanage will work with the auto - set up and tune is about $1000 in Perth (not sure about elsewhere).

This will maximise the benefits you get from more boost and better exhaust as well as improving fuel efficiency. If nobody buys my car in the next 3 months then i will be fitting one to my car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...