Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im with Just Cars.

Rating 1 and pay about $1500.

They are pretty much the best for what you are/got, young driver, HPI car. Get ya fully covered and at a lower cost.

Edited by (00)SKYLINE(00)
  • Replies 115
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ok here we go

Age: 25

Car: 1992 R32 GTS-T

Rating: 1

Price: $1088 + $35 for Rating 1 Protection

Agreed Value: $12550

Excess: $400 Standard Excess. $1000 Thieft Excess

Covered Mods: Body Kit, Steering Wheel, Exhaust, Wheels and Tyres ($1700), Stereo ($1500)

It is true about where you are means alot but it doesn't just go by cars stolen, It goes by how much people make a claim. For example my friend is paying an extra $200 a year for his insurance now then when he use to live in the same area as me. The area he is in now is abit more upperclass with not a high car theift rate but the people have the extra money to spend to cover their excess everytime something happens to a car. Also they may not have the knowledge nor the time to get the job done themself.

Edited by Triptych

Next time you start a thread please put some more info there.

How old are you?

I'm going to just assume your under 25 with a GTR :thumbsup:, like myself. When I went looking for insurance, the only companies that really wanted to talk to me were Just Cars and GIO Customs, anyone else said over 25, or over 30 for GTR's.

Others were considering it but required the car to be not visible from the street.

I have an excellent driving record, this has paid off and I have an excellent premium, if everyone starts doing racing on the track only (nothing stupid on the street) then our premiums would be less :)

Skylines have the worst name in the Insurance industry.

I know cause I work in Insurance.

They have the most claims and are are up there on the "most stolen" list.

The worst offenders are aged between the 18 and 28, but we could all guess that.

Unfortunately we all get stung in premiums when others bend there rides.

it's really a matter of not how good just cars are sometimes they are the only company that will insure young people and they charge accordingly becouse of that . was with them the first yr i had my skyline cause shannons said i wasant a enthusist lol .

20 yrs racing cars i ac cobrba kit i built and im not a enthusist lol had me beat im 48 yrs old by the way . next yr tried shannons again thru a member on here and got a great deal r33 gtst agreed value 18g choice of repairer pay by the month no penalty ,

and around $850 a yr i then insured my falcon wagon with them and got a better deal and now they do house insurence so might put the house with them and see what sort of package they can do for the lot .

pity they dont do marine insurence for boats tho :-(

when i was 24 i insured my gtr with every mod listed and i paid $2800.....and in that year the car was off the road for about 10 months. The following year when i was 25 it went down to $1300. That was through Famous Insurance though. I am with Just Cars now but i will be changing over to Shannon's.

The test isnt how much they charge for premiums....its how they behave when you make a claim. I was not impressed with how they handled my claim, it wasnt even my fault so they would have reclaimed all costs....but the repairs were doddgy, backed the panel beater rather then me and i got a car back with worse paint then i gave them....this all after having to wait for months for them to approve the repairs...and then not want to finx some damage their tow truck driver did when removing the car from Panel Beater A to Panel Beater B.

A friends car repairs are being delayed at the moment with AAMI which is the same company...so seems its runs through the organisation. Even though you are not at fault, they will not instigate repairs unless the other insurance company approves /accepts the liability...thats assuming the other driver is at least insured.

Im 24 with a Rating 1

Just Car agreed value of $28000 for my 34 GTT. Full comp obviously...

Listed mods are exhaust, boost controller, immobiliser, air filter, window tint, lowered. thats all i can think of at the moment

I pay $1050 per year.

I was speaking to them yesterday and they said they don't charge extra for under 25, they go by driving record (ie rating 1)

Before the mods my premium was $980

I reckon thats not too bad!

R33 gts-t

*agreed value of 18500 ...

*rating 1

*age 23

*excess cover

*no fines at all

*in a good area for insurance

i pay $1400 for full comp this is my fourth year with them also and I have that option where you can reduce your upfront premium and pay a higher excess.

yeh im paying $1680 full cover, but if some prick decides to steal it and burn it out, and i cant prove who did it, i have to pay $3000 lol but if it jsut gets broken into, i pay 600

<25 + Perfect driving record.

R33 With RB30DET + all the usual mods to go along

I asked for a quote to suit my recently completed conversion with justcars today:

$1900 premium + $3100 excess

or

$1100 + $4200excess.

or

$606 for Third Party property & fire and theft.

I also enquired with Famous who I've been with for 5+ years: $2456 + $2000 excess... very annoying as after all this time they were not willing to lower their premium to keep a long time customer.

Bottom line is, if you've spent alot of money modifying your car, expect to pay alot for insurance.

Quick question regarding insurance...

I stacked my work rigid last week into a cow (yes, a cow).

When I am asked this question, is it relating to my car or any vehicle?

"Accidents/claims where you (being the Youngest Driver) were responsible..."

I wasn't in the wrong since a bloody cow shouldn't have been crossing the FREEWAY as it fell off the back of a transporting truck (guess I put it out of its misery before it got to the slaughter house!)

Quick question regarding insurance...

I stacked my work rigid last week into a cow (yes, a cow).

When I am asked this question, is it relating to my car or any vehicle?

"Accidents/claims where you (being the Youngest Driver) were responsible..."

I wasn't in the wrong since a bloody cow shouldn't have been crossing the FREEWAY as it fell off the back of a transporting truck (guess I put it out of its misery before it got to the slaughter house!)

Did the cow have insurance? Then a un-insured 3rd party driver claim (exists with AAMI) may save you, lol. Only problem is you need it in writing that the other motorist did not have insurance....

Seriously, ask your insurance, and the driver of the truck the cow fell off, I assume you got there details.

And create a new thread :(

Famous ! Wouldnt piss on them if they were on fire !

Was with them for nearly 7 years then had a at fault low speed accident(roof damage) and the car was written off buy them.

My first at fault accident in 25 years of driving.

Paid out around $1100 bucks a year in that time to them.

Bought another line and rang em up to get it insured and was told "that we dont reinsure customers after a write off situation, its company police" !!!! What The F%#k !

Went to Shannons for about $870 a year for the same value.

Six month later was sitting at an intersection waiting to turn right and was hit head on by a Porsch running a red. Total write off both me and the car. Shannons where the best. Had the cheque 5 days after the claim went in.

I couldnt speak more highly of their service and profesinalism.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...