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is there anything we need to look out for if we are going to get this logbooked in sports sedans?? anyone (dunc , i know your building one)

cheers russ

I think you'll be alright. 'floorpan vehicles' have to be based on the standard floorpan rather than a spaceframe chassis. tick. 4.2 says that in this case the floorpan is deemed to be the chassis. 4.2 (vii) says "the chassis, sub-frame and all body components other than the shape of the external coachwork are free."

unless there's a seperate section for awd vehicles that overrides this rule, but I don't see one.

log book it now in case the eligibility rules do change! Doesn't need to be finished or inspected to be log-booked.

cheers thanks for that Harry

BTW have i told you how much i love your car!! and i would buy it if my wife wouldnt leave me :D

thanks mate. I'm thinking of pulling the ads actually. got a better paying job starting next week and looks like there's a bit of overtime to be had as well, so I think I'll just tighten the belt for a few months and keep the 1200. Might not be able to play until later in the year though...

Ben, keeps fumes etc out of cabin just like the front one is spose to.

I;ts not just the fumes but should be water tight, in the case of a roll over or tail end hit to contain

fuel spillage, last year my race car failed scrutineering at qld raceway as i had gaps around the dry sump lines guess what lots of silastic fixed in 15 min.

Russ,

Thanks for the pics. I'll post some tomorrow.

They are remarkably similar, with just a few differences which don't amount to much. My only comment would be that you probably should have taken the doorway crosses up to the bends on the main hoop and on the a pillars, they are your weekest points. More a safety issue than a rigidity issue, and since this will likely not be in too many scenarios where other car collisions can occur, it's not much of a problem.

I am planning do to the rear cradle point just in front of the rear wheel arches, but I'm going to mount them differently to the cage. I'll show you tomorow.

Have you though of putting a second straigh bar under the dash below the steering arm. Only way I can see to get the box effect.

Mark

you don't need to seal the rear of the car, you just need to seal the fuel system off from the passenger compartment. Neil's car for instance had the fuel tank where the passenger would have been, and just had ally sheet blocking it off from the cabin

hey Mark

i think dave was thinking about putting a second bar under the dash but i think decided against it ( not sure why, though probably more to do with berry wants the bloody thing home to get stuck into building it:) )

it will be good to see your take on it.

and you are right, not sure whether the r34 will ever run as a sports sedan or just purely time attack ( which was original plan) , he has kept it low so we can get in and out a bit easier but i guess you never know when someone is going to try and come throught the drivers door, especially being carbon.

cheers russ

i think the cage should be pretty strong , i have seen his worked tested out many times before, as i used to mechanic for stewart reid a rally competitor & he tested out quite a few of dave's cages!! :D

including this one , second car in the vid (white evo 6) in tassie http://www.compfused.com/directlink/281/

Edited by giant

I have proof (unfortunately), sitting out in my front yard, that just about any cage with the basics will keep you safe as long as there's no direct impact. The cage in my now defunct combined touring car was fairly basic, but survived 2 good crashes without any damage at all.

The first had a lot of up and down impact as I hit a few hard ditches on the way down the hill with the car still upright and the parts that were damaged were the front and rear when the cage didn't go.

The second time it rolled 6 or 7 times and despite every panel being damaged, the cage is unmoved and unbent. The skin from the roof is actually molded around the cage so that you can clearly see the top and cross bar across the top.

I guess the moral of the story is once you've got your main hoop, a pillars and a few crosses in, the rest of the cage should be designed around rigidity of the chassis. The weakest point of the cage in terms of safety is always going to be a side impact on the doors, which you can't really do much about because the driver gets in the way of a bar across the middle!

Mark

I have proof (unfortunately), sitting out in my front yard, that just about any cage with the basics will keep you safe as long as there's no direct impact. The cage in my now defunct combined touring car was fairly basic, but survived 2 good crashes without any damage at all.

The first had a lot of up and down impact as I hit a few hard ditches on the way down the hill with the car still upright and the parts that were damaged were the front and rear when the cage didn't go.

The second time it rolled 6 or 7 times and despite every panel being damaged, the cage is unmoved and unbent. The skin from the roof is actually molded around the cage so that you can clearly see the top and cross bar across the top.

I guess the moral of the story is once you've got your main hoop, a pillars and a few crosses in, the rest of the cage should be designed around rigidity of the chassis. The weakest point of the cage in terms of safety is always going to be a side impact on the doors, which you can't really do much about because the driver gets in the way of a bar across the middle!

Mark

Im sorry to hear you had to suffer the misfortune of these types of things to be able to speak from experience on them.

Adam.

Both, but not enough of either in the last little while for my liking. I'm trying to put some effort into getting both cars up and running and getting back out there. I knot that when I start getting tempted to get my road car back on the track that withdrawls are starting to set in.

haha! bloody drivers put a bar there anyway! :)

shit mark! have you been rallying too? or circuit

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