Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

AFR tuning is different from car to car - you can run some engines leaner than others it depends upon many factors - fuel density, chamber shape, piston dwell at TDC, piston diameter, spark plug postion, intake and exhuast design, exhaust backpressure - the list is endless.

Well thank goodness 99.99% of people are running RB's on this forum, with a large number of them running the same comparable setups :D

Edited by GeeTR
im talking low to mid (75-108k's) to be exact... you could lean on yours at least a ratio in those initial dips safely.... as im guessing the a/fs are taken from the tailpipe and not the dump..

^^^

that there is gospel...

Yes, that is the plan. I noticed this when you see the little bumb in power increase at 75kmph. I've done mostly road tuning so I am not able to see these nice AFR curves to adjust, and also, I only tuned the top end on this one to be a show off at the dyno day. And it worked :D

If it was running so lean that it's dangerous, wouldn't the PFC knock sensor detect knock and have an extremely high knock count?

12.5:1 and higher I consider dangerous but you don't have room for bad batches of fuel, a idiot driver, or hot days. And there aren't a lot of people looking at the high knock count. They are too busy showing off to their mates.

But in saying all of this, the original AFR plot should be flatter not all over the place.

Well thank goodness 99.99% of people are running RB's on this forum, with a large number of them running the same comparable setups :yes:

ohhh I'm sorry all rb produce maximum torque at 12.35467:1 AFR with 22degrees of timing at 6500rpm and 15psi of boost.

Wake up clown, no two cars are similar with even the same mods - that was the point I was trying to make. Its no good saying that there is a certain AFR or timing advance that to achieve X amount of horsepower in all situations.

Found the original dyno result for the car dating back to late 2005 - click to read, scroll down page

Scale on my dyno - 1AFR= 2 big blocks, or 10 small blocks.

Scale on original dyno below - 1AFR = .4 of a big block

therefore zoom/magnification is 5 times on my graph compared with the graph below. Perhaps that is the reason that Mafia commented that the AFR was all over the show. His AFR probably looks the same at a higher level of magnification.

crd29.jpg

Edited by futurewa

You are looking good for a power run now!

post your dyno sheet after your power run, it would be interesting to see if it has changed much over time.

don't worry about the power numbers, they vary wildly from dyno to dyno, more interested in the power curve shape and the afr.

that is what shits me about CRDs sheets. they always use such a wide AFR scale that everything just looks flat. I mean seriously is there any reason they need to have 2.5:1 to 22.5:1 AFR on there? I would love to see the same graph but with a more sensible scale for the AFR. maybe 8:1 to 18:1 or similar.

that is what shits me about CRDs sheets. they always use such a wide AFR scale that everything just looks flat. I mean seriously is there any reason they need to have 2.5:1 to 22.5:1 AFR on there? I would love to see the same graph but with a more sensible scale for the AFR. maybe 8:1 to 18:1 or similar.

Great point!

They are probably showing everyone how "flat" they have tuned their a/f ratios. Meanwhile when zoomed in its probably all over the shop

I was thinking the same thing, why the hell would they want to read 3:1 AFR ? the sensor wont even read that low !!! :(

Anyways i like to run the engine rich, 11.6:1 has kept my engine alive on 25psi so thats where its going to stay. Just seems like the guys in sydney like to run em really lean or something, maybe they get paid more money and can afford a couple of rebuilds a year ?? or they want their customers to come back in for engine rebuilds soon after ??

More blown up engines = more engine work needed LOL

*shrug*

that is what shits me about CRDs sheets. they always use such a wide AFR scale that everything just looks flat. I mean seriously is there any reason they need to have 2.5:1 to 22.5:1 AFR on there? I would love to see the same graph but with a more sensible scale for the AFR. maybe 8:1 to 18:1 or similar.

well here is a perfect example. the graph is one of mine. 32 GTR. scale is 10-18:1. Plenty of scope. on scaling like the above my AFR would probably look ruler flat too... but that is not what I wanted anyway.

0517002ui9.jpg

thats a good AFR too! nice tune there

well here is a perfect example. the graph is one of mine. 32 GTR. scale is 10-18:1. Plenty of scope. on scaling like the above my AFR would probably look ruler flat too... but that is not what I wanted anyway.

0517002ui9.jpg

yeah it's pretty much what I asked for. 11.8:1 for most of the rev range and richening up to 11.5:1 closer to readline to give it a little insurance up top. in reality it's probably a little rich overall, but it's still very punchy, not doughy at all as the extra fuel seems to allow a little extra timing. :cool:

Had a quick read through and one thing I think everyone is missing , correct me if i am wrong ?

The tuner said there was too much TIMING !

no matter how much you look at a dyno graph is never going to show that ! You need your dirty paws on the hand controller to see the numbers.

That original graph is pretty wavery up top. Also as beer baron pointed out the scale is 2.5 afr points, so will be VERY up down on a different scale.

Yes you should be seeing knock levels, assuming your knock sensors are working and not disabled.

What knock numbers were you getting on the street ?

I think you will find a good portion of WA tuners will tune on the cautious side of AFR's. There have been a couple of breaker tuners that given WA bad rep, so most tuners very careful now days.

Your car is at what I understand to be a good tuner.

Also Beer barons tune would be the sort of AFR"s i would be aiming at !

Edited by Butters
It says 12.4:1 to 12.6:1 in the mid range.... why do you think that is "way to rich"? If you thank that is way to rich, then you need to re-think your idea of tuning..

Seriously, a safe tune is 11.7:1 to about 12:1 afrs..

12.5:1 and above is considered very dangerous, but I can get away with it due to a fairly obvious reason - WMI

If circuit GTR's can run around with 400rwkw and 13:1

12.5:1 obviously isnt as 'dangerous' as you make it out to be now is it? :cool:

  • 2 weeks later...

Finally had a chance to scan my dyno runs -

11LBS AFR Taken at each exhaust (Twin System) (Possibly injectors need cleaning, as the run was terminated due to the knock count going up to 50)

15Lbs Boost 336HP - No knock issue

20Lbs AFR (Not sure which exhaust?) - Run cut...too much knock, up to 50

11Lbs Boost 300HP

12Lbs Boost 308HP

14Lbs Boost 325HP

By my calculations, the 20Lbs run reached 169km/hr in 4th, generating 380HP. The run shown earlier in the post but in 2005, looked like it would have had 10-20hp more at the same speed in the same gear. Possibly the dyno? Possibly my calc?

some quick advice mate would be to find a work shop in perth that tunes rb26's often and get them to check out then possibly retune to your needs and wants ( xspeed, top racing ect ), then you know whats safe and whats not.

Edited by monga

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...