Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thought I would add this to try and dig up some info

The picture below is the brains for the 4WD system on the GIO GTR.

Its has removable chips for different 4WD bias. Now we just have to figure what the hell it all means. If anyone has any info it would be great to chat to you. The car came with two of these box's and three different numbered chips.....one of the box's was marked wet setup but it appears to have the same chip in it as the dry box. Which makes be think, being that it understeers quite badly at the moment as soon as you start clicking up to different setting that both box's have wet chips in it. Info would be great....would save us time and money on test days.

cheers

Craig

post-37023-1274220474_thumb.jpg

The way I understand it in that 1st clip where skaife explains it 'wet chip is used for the rain for constant 4wd' so it must bypass the g sensor, similar to the torque converter switch I have in my gtr 'extreme tsc' brand

  • 2 months later...

More crack smoking Roy? :thumbsup: lol

My bucket of bolts 32 on road tyres is quicker around Lakeside the Seto in a Group A 80's era Mustang on slicks. In fact I think it's quicker than any of the Group A's that have visited the track in recent years?

Seto in the M3 was damn quick at PI last year. Showed how quick the old buses go if steered hard.

But i agree, that there are plenty of road-track cars that are near as quick/quicker then these things. But thats not the point, I have seen what goes into the build/resto of these things and you can understand why they are not drive a 10/10ths. There is still a level of bespoked engineering and hard to find parts in these cars so who would want to break them....lol I am about dumb enough to get caught up in the moment and push . But ey that lack of self control translates to why in this lifetime I will never have the money to buy and punt one of these cars :thumbsup:

And Marlin, you may be perhaps quicker...but your thing will never scream like the 31s :)

oh...edit...looking at Natsoft i cant see the times form last Spetember. I cant see anything about their last visit to Lakeside regarding times or a Mustang being entered...or Was Seton there just testing a car at a non race day?

  zebra said:
I would love to build a replica of the Dick Johnson Mustang, Could flog the ass off it and not care, the fox body mustangs are worth sweet FA in the states anyhow.

probably the equivalent of buying a vn commodore here lol

if its registered & has new tyres, its worth more haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...