Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

The trailer weighs 800kg, runs its own brakes.

The car probably weighs 1000, but i will have it weighed. It is a stripped out race prepped 91 SSS pulsar.

Im assuming the 4spd auto would be best suited for towing. The car will be doing probably a dozen meets a year, s well as being towed to workshops etc.

Should i run a trans oil cooler and/or a shift kit?

The car will also be carrying spares etc for track days.

I ave read through a couple of threads - i know there are a couple of you guys on here running stageas as tow cars. Have you come across any issues or things that need to be constantly checked and maintained due to the increased load...???

Thaks guys

Had a look at mine the other day and it looks kinda like the series 2's have a trans oil cooler standard (a "proper" one, not just a loop in the radiator), mounted on the driver's side in front of the condensor radiator. Can anyone confirm?

Had a look at mine the other day and it looks kinda like the series 2's have a trans oil cooler standard (a "proper" one, not just a loop in the radiator), mounted on the driver's side in front of the condensor radiator. Can anyone confirm?

Yes, that's the trans cooler. I do a bit of towing so I got a shift kit installed and also run a 2nd cooler in the lower bumper, Its directly in the air flow there. I cut some air flow slots in wheel arch surround (similar to intercooler slots on other side).

Since I fitted a FMIC it completely blocks the factory transmision cooler, drawing the intercoolers hot air, so im thinking to move it up as high as possible, to get it into the clean air from the main grill.

post-780-1202544019_thumb.jpg

post-780-1202544032_thumb.jpg

Very nice - so with it already having a cooler, i can use the existing piping to run a larger one - obviously will take more fluid.

Another concern is twisting the chassis etc... damage to brakes and diff.... For the amount of towing it will be doing, this shouldnt be an issue? Im mainly worried about the long term effects. Between tows, the car will be a daily driver.

Very nice - so with it already having a cooler, i can use the existing piping to run a larger one - obviously will take more fluid.

Another concern is twisting the chassis etc... damage to brakes and diff.... For the amount of towing it will be doing, this shouldnt be an issue? Im mainly worried about the long term effects. Between tows, the car will be a daily driver.

Yep your right , my S2 has a cooler mounted as the other post suggested, the nissan auto should be ok to tow, trailer brakes will help and i dont thing you will have any problems with the chassis. I have a Falcon BF2 Ute company car that i tow my race car with, Ford and Holden wont guarantee there clutches if you are towing .

The search function is your best friend, try "Sydnekid" and "Transmission Cooler" and you get this;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tr...l&hl=cooler

Cheers

Gary

Thats awesome thanks for the link and the info.

Im now pretty certain that the stagea Auto will take it especially with a cooler, the steering will be fine, the trailer brakes will assist enough.

Would a shift kit help the auto from being a bit slushy under the weight, or is it not necessary? Recommendations?

Thats awesome thanks for the link and the info.

Im now pretty certain that the stagea Auto will take it especially with a cooler, the steering will be fine, the trailer brakes will assist enough.

Would a shift kit help the auto from being a bit slushy under the weight, or is it not necessary? Recommendations?

G`DAY ROBBIE the steering will be fine ????????,HOW MUCH do they weigh ???,I WOULD BE PUTTING ONE ON THE STEERING SIDE,WITH EVEN MORE LOAD ON YOUR CURRENT SET UP IT WILL HELP BIG TIME ,GOOD LUCK DUDE,cheer`s chuckie.ANY OTHER COOLER`S WILL HELP YOUR CAR.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...