Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There are only 3 ways to achieve over 2.8 litres, so it's not hard to work through them. I eliminated the 86/84mm combo as it gives 29.3 not 29.5. If I had known it was that capacity then the combo is obvious, although I still don't like the rod stroke ratio.

A questions if I may;

Why did you go for 86mm? Since you have to use tall liners I would have thought 87mm would have been more user friendly, plus give some more (0.7L) capacity.

Cheers

Gary

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206406-rb29-wow/page/6/#findComment-3666604
Share on other sites

  • Replies 241
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

There are only 3 ways to achieve over 2.8 litres, so it's not hard to work through them. I eliminated the 86/84mm combo as it gives 29.3 not 29.5. If I had known it was that capacity then the combo is obvious, although I still don't like the rod stroke ratio.

A questions if I may;

Why did you go for 86mm? Since you have to use tall liners I would have thought 87mm would have been more user friendly, plus give some more (0.7L) capacity.

Cheers

Gary

I chose 86mm as it leaves a little more rigidity in the block, and allows me to go up .5 or 1mm later if need be.

Capacity is 2.93, but everyone rounds up don't they?? so 2.95 was closest.

cheers,

Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206406-rb29-wow/page/6/#findComment-3667362
Share on other sites

Well its Friday night and 7.02pm and still at work...trying to break into the safe so that i can have the R32 with the mostest ;)

Firstly, this is one of the better viral marketing campaigns I've seen, onya Benno!

Secondly, and this is close to my heart and for that matter my wallet, how does one get rid of the heat that this engine would generate on the track. My measly 350kw is sending my water temps into the oh shit zone after 3 laps on a 28 degreee day.... :banana:

How the hell did Gibson and the boys do it for 1,000 k's. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206406-rb29-wow/page/6/#findComment-3667616
Share on other sites

I chose 86mm as it leaves a little more rigidity in the block, and allows me to go up .5 or 1mm later if need be.

Capacity is 2.93, but everyone rounds up don't they?? so 2.95 was closest.

cheers,

Ben

shouldnt u just round down to 2.9? only time i've seen capacity mentioned to 2 decimal places is on the old 6.75 bentley motors...

anyway what turbos? are they custom pistons? what cams? spill motherfcuker!! :(:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206406-rb29-wow/page/6/#findComment-3668219
Share on other sites

I chose 86mm as it leaves a little more rigidity in the block, and allows me to go up .5 or 1mm later if need be.

Capacity is 2.93, but everyone rounds up don't they?? so 2.95 was closest.

cheers,

Ben

U don't happen to have a 6.3 AMG do you?

LOL just kidding. Congrat for the great result.

My T517Z produced similar results on a stroked RB as well. I wish I didn't leave the dyno in the car in SA and can post it up for comparision.

Keen to know what turbo you used?

Edited by 9krpm
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206406-rb29-wow/page/6/#findComment-3668672
Share on other sites

Very flash Ben, or rather impressivie as I know you are not a flashy guy. Awesome dyno graph also.

Starting to look like a 300zx dyno graph although mine was on race fuel so not same. lol Waiting..........

Extra bit of engine capacity and stoke gives a lot more down low.

zed456kw.gif

Below is my Z dyno graph on the rleft compared to two RB26 GTR's with the middle one with HKS GTRS turbo's and the one far right with lag for sale is T88.

COMPARER.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206406-rb29-wow/page/6/#findComment-3671908
Share on other sites

Very flash Ben, or rather impressivie as I know you are not a flashy guy. Awesome dyno graph also.

Starting to look like a 300zx dyno graph although mine was on race fuel so not same. lol Waiting..........

Extra bit of engine capacity and stoke gives a lot more down low.

zed456kw.gif

Below is my Z dyno graph on the rleft compared to two RB26 GTR's with the middle one with HKS GTRS turbo's and the one far right with lag for sale is T88.

COMPARER.gif

i would like to point out that its not exactly apples to apples...

the rb's are coming on a little later but reving a lot further.

useful rev range and average power in this band is what u want :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206406-rb29-wow/page/6/#findComment-3672235
Share on other sites

Secondly, and this is close to my heart and for that matter my wallet, how does one get rid of the heat that this engine would generate on the track. My measly 350kw is sending my water temps into the oh shit zone after 3 laps on a 28 degreee day.... :D

How the hell did Gibson and the boys do it for 1,000 k's. :D

50 mm PWR radiator

Large Oil cooler, mounted in the side vents (NOT in front of the radiator)

Tube and fin intercooler (NOT bar and plate)

If you are consistenbtly using more than 8,000 rpm (on the track) then an N1 water pump is worthwhile

Make sure you bleed ALL of the the air out of the coolant system

Cheers

Gary

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206406-rb29-wow/page/6/#findComment-3672243
Share on other sites

50 mm PWR radiator - I have a 40mm one with the shroud - sounds like I need a bigger one

Large Oil cooler, mounted in the side vents (NOT in front of the radiator) - Done - sort of - I have a side mounted HKS 16 row one - maybe need a bigger one.

Tube and fin intercooler (NOT bar and plate) - doh - have an AVO bar and plate

If you are consistenbtly using more than 8,000 rpm (on the track) then an N1 water pump is worthwhile - Got one

Make sure you bleed ALL of the the air out of the coolant system - New engine - I assume that is ok.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206406-rb29-wow/page/6/#findComment-3672333
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...