Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...

Bump! I got my coolant flushed recently because of possible corrosion. The place that did it said that the old coolant was probably just dirty and that there wasn't any rust in the radiator. Last time I go there because a few weeks later after checking if it needed a top up the cap had all this brown rust-like crap all over it. I was thinking of getting a new radiator with my tax return, would I need new hoses as well? Also what would be the rough price I'd be looking at.

Any recommendations of places in Perth (NOR) would be great too. Really wanted to spend my tax return on something other than the car, already spent too much on it!

I did mine.. (haha this is my topic.!!)

I bought a dual alloy radiator of SAU group by... cant remember how much.. roughly 400 from memory.

I did replace my hoses... these can be sourced from the sponsors on SAU. They are approx $70 + postage. The reason why i changed my hoses was because it was only an extra 70$ and then i know they are new. =)

Flushing the engine is important not just the radiator. When you replace your radiator, once the old one is out, simply pull off the heater hose, and put a garden hose up it, and flush out all that old stuff.

Bolt in the new radiator/hoses. And fill her up with the new coolant ~ 8litres (buy 10 to be safe)

Dont forget to bleed the system, Dont worry too much about this.. as long as you get a decent amount in there, it wil bleed it self out over the next few days... just keep topping up the overflow bottle until it has stablised... as it well keep going down as the air lets it self out and sucks in more coolant.

Overall took me about a day to do it. Started roughly 10am finshed 5pm... but thats me mucking around... taking my time and having a few drinks.

so the things i did

1)changed radiator

2)Changed hoses

3)Full engine coolant flush

4)replaced coolant with Techloy 100 (around 8 litres from memory)

Hope this helps! =D

Here a pic of my "smick" engine bay with alloy radiator =)

IMG_9086.jpgIMG_9087.jpg

Edited by br3ndan
  • 5 years later...

is the method and drain plug location for a 34 gtt the same as 33?

if so, do you have any photos of the process? I "had" a coolant leak somewhere, as whenever i drove the car out of the garage i saw a small pool of green lol. Everytime i topped up the overflow, it went empty in a few days and i dont know where it went.

Opening my engine bay, i see something has splashed around and left white splash marks around the place, around the radiator included.

So i wish to change out my radiator to a new one, and flush my cooling system too.

Make sure you flush the cooling system with the old radiator in place as you dont want to stir up sediment in the block and end up blocking the tubes on the new radiator

So are the drain plugs on both the radiator and the engine block easy to find and reach? Also, is it in the same position for the 34 as it is for the 33?

I've heard that the 34 drain plug is a biatch to get to?

Make sure you flush the cooling system with the old radiator in place as you dont want to stir up sediment in the block and end up blocking the tubes on the new radiator

Can't you flush it with no radiator in there? That way you don't risk putting any old dirty shit in from the other end.

Also the bleed method you guys described isn't thorough. Air in your cooling system has potential to raise temps which is not good.

To bleed correctly, fill the rad with water, start the engine and was the coolant drops, top it up. While its running and not up to temp yet there is a small screw to the right of the throttle body. This is the bleed valve. It is the highest point in the water cooling system in your car. Any air in your car will rise by law of physics. You release this valve(its just a 10mm nut), NOT ALL THE WAY just enough so its open and you will hear air hissing out sometimes. When the engine starts coming up to temp, the whole system will build pressure and it will rapidly start spitting coolant and blowing bubbles. When the bubbles stop and all you see is the system pissing out coolant, tighten it up and ensure during the whole process you were topping up coolant as necessary. I repeat this a couple times. At all times during the bleeding process ensure your heater is on to max heat and operating. Monitor your temps for the next few days and make sure they're within normal range. DO NOT OPEN THIS VALVE WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT. There is a warning on the valve saying this.

Just check the bottom left or right corner of the radiator the plug should be there. If you're changing your radiator just drop the whole radiator and shove a hose in the top feeder hole and it will all drain out through the bottom.

Edited by SargeRX8
  • Like 1

So are the drain plugs on both the radiator and the engine block easy to find and reach? Also, is it in the same position for the 34 as it is for the 33?

I've heard that the 34 drain plug is a biatch to get to?

yes both of the valves are on the top of the engine, one is at the back near the AAC valve and the other is near the front of the engine (both have "DO NOT TOUCH WHEN HOT on/near them so should be pretty obvious). the 34 drain plug is NOT a biatch to get to, it is a very nice easy girl, just simply stick your head under your mud tray directly under the passenger side of the radiator (left) and you will see a hole, shine a torch up that hole you will see the plug, use a screwdriver to let her loose!

and if you're still not sure have a good search around here because there are threads with pictures (for the r33 but same thing for 34).

The r34 drain plug is a biatch to get to (the one sudwidji asked about)as its behind the exhaust side of the block and its easy to round off the plug as it is short and hugs the block

The r34 drain plug is a biatch to get to (the one sudwidji asked about)as its behind the exhaust side of the block and its easy to round off the plug as it is short and hugs the block

are we talking about the drain plugs which you undo to release the air after putting in the new coolant?

Theres one at the front and one at the back of the inlet manifold. The one at the back is part of the alluminium casting, the front one is part of some hard pipework .(the manifold you mentioned) and just noticed it was mentioned a few posts ago :)

Edited by superben

are we talking about the drain plugs which you undo to release the air after putting in the new coolant?

Nup, the one im refering too is only removed when

You are draining/flushing the block, if you have sausage fingers like me then you will have "fun" removing and replacing the plug

Two up top? I thought there was only one on a little manifold?

The Block drain is on the exhaust side as has already been said, just below where the coolant feed for the turbo comes out

I thought there was only one too, until I read it in this thread, but I can't check as I've only a RB20

Nup, the one im refering too is only removed when

You are draining/flushing the block, if you have sausage fingers like me then you will have "fun" removing and replacing the plug

ah i see. i also have sausage fingers, and i had no idea there was another plug...fark.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Back again. I returned to Japan in Jul/Aug to spend time with the car on my birthday and remind myself what all the sacrifice and compromise is for. It happened to line up with the monthly morning meet in Okutama, which I have been wanting to go to for a long time. It's a unique event at a unique spot with really rare, interesting, and quirky cars. It's where all the oldheads and OGs gather. The nighttime scene at DKF certainly has its place and should be experienced if you're into cars, but there's too much bad attention and negativity around it now. IMO the better time is Sunday morning at DKF or Okutama; it's more chill and relaxed. I'm glad I was finally able to go, but not sure it's worth the drive from all the way from Nagoya immediately the day before, unless I was already staying in Tokyo for the days right before the meet, because you have to wake up quite early to make it in time. Funnily enough though I didn't drive the car all that much this trip because it was just too damn hot. While there were zero issues and running temps were nominal and the A/C was strong, RBs already run crazy hot as it is. Sure, it took it all like a champ but something about driving these cars in the ridiculous heat/humidity bothers me and makes me feel like I'm asking too much of it. I'm just me being weird and treating the car like a living thing with feelings; I'm mechanically sympathetic to a fault. Instead I was mainly driving something else around - a KX4(silver) 2001 X-Trail GT, that I acquired in May. There's a few different flavors to choose from with Xs, but visually it's the Nissan version of the Honda CR-V. Mechanically it's a whole different story as this, being the top-trim GT, has an SR20VET mated to a four-speed auto and full-time AWD! It was a very affordable buy in exceptional condition inside and out, with very low mileage...only 48k kms. Most likely it was owned by an older person who kept it garaged and well-maintained, so I'm really happy with how it all worked out. It literally needs zero attention at the moment, albeit except for some minor visual touch-ups. I wanted something quirky, interesting, and practical and for sure it handily delivers on all three of those aspects. I was immediately able to utilize the cargo and passenger capacity to its full extent. It's a lot of fun to drive and is quite punchy through 1st and 2nd. It's very unassuming -in the twisty bits it's a lot more composed than one would think at a glance- and it'll be even better once I get better tires on it(yes, it's an SUV but still a little boat-y for my liking). So...now I have two golden-era Nissans in silver. One sports car and one that does everything else; the perfect two-car solution I think👍 The rest of the trip...I was able to turn my stressed brain off and enjoy it, although I didn't quite get to do as much as I thought. I did some interesting things, met some interesting people, and happened into some interesting situations however, that's all for another post though only if people really want to know. Project-wise, I went back to Mine's again to discuss more plans and am hoping to wrap that up real soon; keep watching this space if that interests you. Additionally, while working in the tormenting sweatbox that is the warehouse, I was able to organize most of the myriad of parts that my friend is storing for me along with the cars, and the 34 has a nice little spot carved out for it: And since it can get so stupid hot in there, that made it all the more easy -after I was standing there looking at the car and said 'f**k it'- to finally remove all the damn gauges that have mostly been an eyesore all this time. Huzzah. The heat basically makes the adhesive backing on the gauge mounts more pliable to work with, so it was far less stressful getting this done. I didn't fully clean it up or chase the wiring though; that will happen once I have the car in closer possession. Another major reason to remove all that stuff is to give people less reasons to get in my car and steal s**t while it's being exported/imported when/if the time comes, which leads us to my next point... ...and that is even though it's time in Japan is technically almost up since it's a November car and the X would be coming in March, I'm still not entirely sure where my life and career is headed; I don't really know what the future looks like and where I'm going to end up. I feel there's a great deal of uncertainty with me and as a result of that, it feels like I'm at a crossroads moreso now than any point in my life thus far and there are some choices I need to make. Yes, I've had some years to consider things and prepare myself, however too much has happened in that time to maintain confidence and everything feels so up in the air; tenuous one might say. Simply put, there's just too much nonsense going on right now from multiple vectors. Admittedly, I'm struggling to stay in the game and keep my eyes on the prize. So much so in fact, that very recently I came the closest I ever have before to calling it quits outright; selling everything and moving on and not looking back. The astute among you will pick up on key subtext within this paragraph. In the meantime I've still managed to slowly acquire some final bits for the car, but it feels nice knowing there's not much left to get and I'm almost across that finish line; I have almost everything I'll ever want for my interpretation and expression on what it is I think an R34 should be. 'til later.
    • Thanks for that, hadn’t used my brain enough to think about that. 
    • Also playing with fire if they start to flow more air down low than what the stock twins can. It's not even up top you need to worry, it can be at 3000rpm and part throttle and it's getting way more flow than it should.
    • Any G40/1000 or G40/1250 results out there?  
    • You still want a proper tune on the stock ECU though. Stock tune + stock ECU with GT-SS/-9s is probably playing with fire if you're running more than stock airflow/power.
×
×
  • Create New...