Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

your oil pressure is regulated by teh relief valve within the oil pump itself, only reason it would raise the pressure would be if there is a problem with your pump.

Why would you consider removing something that people wish they could get installed on the R30 conversions?

you could simply grub screw them as the actual squirters are simply bolted into place!

1 reason for removing them is if you were to rebuild the engine with forgies, with the new pistons you have to take a chunk out of the skirt so they dont foul, ive seen forged pistons come out of an rb26 and the skirts had cracked where the chunk waqqs taken out to accomidate the oil squirters

1 reason for removing them is if you were to rebuild the engine with forgies, with the new pistons you have to take a chunk out of the skirt so they dont foul, ive seen forged pistons come out of an rb26 and the skirts had cracked where the chunk waqqs taken out to accomidate the oil squirters

Can you space the squirters down enough to clear the piston

  • 2 weeks later...

ive seen a set of pistons where all 6 of them had cracks bid and small around the skirts that had developed from the cut out for the oil squirters, mayby these were rb25 pistons that had been modified to fit a 26, i dont know i only saw the results after the engine had gone bang

  • 1 year later...
1 reason for removing them is if you were to rebuild the engine with forgies, with the new pistons you have to take a chunk out of the skirt so they dont foul, ive seen forged pistons come out of an rb26 and the skirts had cracked where the chunk waqqs taken out to accomidate the oil squirters

if you do remove the squirters is that really bad? what else do you have to do when they are removed?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Um.... This is not easy. I will have a fiddle with it, but make no promises. I think, given the explicit resistances vs temperature, and your ECU measured voltages, it should be possible to match them up. I will do that by assuming a 5V supply from ECU to sensor, find out how much current would have to flow to produce that voltage, then use that current as a .... nah f**k. That won't work. The supply voltage is fixed, but there's nothing to say that the ECU regulates the current too. Um... I dunno. I guess there's a voltage divider setup in the ECU. As in, there's another resistance between the ECU's sense terminal and ground. That way, as the sensor resistance changes, that's how they get a floating voltage that varies with the temperature, without having to control the current. Give me a minute or 3.
    • *that* is a question for chatgpt (or someone that understands maths....but I'd try chatty). Drop them the table and ask for the formula
    • Alright. Exhaust has been looked at, and booked in 'soon'. I'm not 100% convinced it's going to be as good as possible but I'm going to go with it anyway. If I get a reasonable thing that works for 10 years I mean that's twice as long as I've lived with the current one. I have a more pressing issue. I have fixed my MPVI3 (by buying a new one). Excellently, one can wire in analog 0-5v inputs to the ECU itself. I had wideband already via Serial so I also wired it in via the direct input. The idea being I can use the standalone logging without a laptop and have Wideband data in it. The other wire I thought I'd use oil temp. This is where I've gone crazy. HPTuners requires you to implement a formula so you know how much volts = how much temp. This seems relatively simple to me. However I cannot find the scale for this anywhere on the internet, nor decipher how to figure it out without removing the sensor from the car. All I know is that voltage actually goes up as temperature goes down. I am using the actual gauge, so I can see what the temp is. The signal wire has been branched off into the MPVI3. EXAMPLE: 2.68v = 58C 2.7 = 57C 2.74v = 56C 2.8V = 54C 3.06V = 49C 3.18V = 47C 3.37V = 43C I think the gauge is 50-150C. It may be more. It may be less, because I can't find it for the love of f**k. It appears all the information about the gauges I have has been scoured from the internet, but the sender is VDO 320.021 I believe the resistance chart is this How the f**k do I convert this to a voltage? Once I have a voltage... I then have to perform this transform of said voltage to show it in the scanner: https://www.hptuners.com/help/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm @GTSBoy you're probably my only hope here TEST YOUR MIGHT
    • Here’s the updated and installed muse replica nismo ones … very happy with the outcome. Eventhough I painted my whole rear end due to my rich idle lol. 
    • Hmm. I had a good look (w/o searching, because I'm not logging in) and couldn't see it either. I distinctly recall the thread, not many weeks ago. It must have been removed or perhaps put into the back section. If it was in Off Topic you should at least have been able to search it up. So if I'm not hallucinating, it is fairly decently removed.
×
×
  • Create New...