Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok now we all know that the PFC is the way to go for ultimate tuning but PFC's are getting pretty hard to find these days for a R33 GTST so my question is whats the next best thing to use if one cant find a PFC???

do i just stick to a piggy back or is their another replacement ECU that can be compared to the PFC???

ta

Ash

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209764-pfc-alternative/
Share on other sites

Depends what your aims are... for your everyday streeter with a hi-flow turbo, slightly bigger injectors etc. an E-Manage Ultimate would be more than enough. If your going to make big power it would be better to spend the extra money and get something that's suited for tuning big turbo's i.e Autronic.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209764-pfc-alternative/#findComment-3708492
Share on other sites

PLEASE DONT GO A EMU DUDE THEY SUCK BALLZ.

no one tunes them. it is VERY hard to tune, i was quoted that they needed 3 days to do the tune!!!!!. it bollocksed up my ecu. made error codes. then removed it and ran just stock ecu and it runs.

so im going a power fc.

good thing im getting my money back on the EMU. whoo lesson learnt. just because its new doesnt mean its good.

BUT. have heard nothing but good news on the e11v2. i believe the ignition jet200 uses one.

Edited by r33cruiser
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209764-pfc-alternative/#findComment-3708652
Share on other sites

go the powerfc, sorry wins hands down in most cases unless you can afford wolf 3d, autronic, motec

it just seems with the other piggyback style systems you need to find a competent tuner

then you are back to the old remap style issue where only 1 or 2 workshops can do / fix it / tune it

so your stuck with lack of competition, options and alternate/cheaper pricing

if i was to do another car , powerfc no questions

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209764-pfc-alternative/#findComment-3709048
Share on other sites

powerfc is old and overpriced.

E-manage Ultimate is the best replacement for the pfc.

people seem to think it just another safc but it is far from that and is alot better than the pfc in my books. able to have more than one map sorted in the ecu and change maps on the fly by a flick of a switch, launch control, ignition cut limiter just to name some of its features.

seem one in action and if the tuner knows what he/she is doing they are a great ecu. their are cars in Japan running over 500hp with the ultimate (Trust/Greddy D1 s15 for example)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209764-pfc-alternative/#findComment-3709101
Share on other sites

Apexi PFC - stand alone/plug & play

Wolf 3d - stand alone/plug & play

Greddy E-Manage Ultimate/blue - Piggy back

powerfc is old and overpriced.

Old & over priced?

I'd say one of the best value for money ECU's on the market - it does everything a stand alone ECU should do without any fancy unnecessary useless features

Its been around for years and will be for many more to come

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209764-pfc-alternative/#findComment-3709201
Share on other sites

Apexi PFC - stand alone/plug & play

Wolf 3d - stand alone/plug & play

Greddy E-Manage Ultimate/blue - Piggy back

Old & over priced?

I'd say one of the best value for money ECU's on the market - it does everything a stand alone ECU should do without any fancy unnecessary useless features

Its been around for years and will be for many more to come

when was the last time apexi update the powerfc? And last time a check Apexi are no longer producing alot of its PFC models

best value for money? no thank you $1500 for a basic ecu (r33/r34 prices) - when you can get the ultimate which does exactly the same as what the pfc does for alot less ($1000 or under) oh and it has more function than the pfc too

so what is the greddy is a piggy back? why does that make such a bad ecu?

Edited by [Michael]
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209764-pfc-alternative/#findComment-3709220
Share on other sites

when was the last time apexi update the powerfc? And last time a check Apexi are no longer producing alot of its PFC models

best value for money? no thank you $1500 for a basic ecu (r33/r34 prices)

so what is the greddy is a piggy back? why does that make such a bad ecu?

Never said it was bad, I'd prefer to go a plug and play over something that cuts into your loom

Also for EPA/defect reasons

+ installation for the E-MANAGE - its just easier to go a plug and play and might even work out cheaper

Unless you want to pay for the wiring harness etc - by the time you get all that, you might as well spend a little more and go a stand alone ECU

$1,500 is an overstatement, if you look hard enough you will find one for cheaper than that

I know someone who bought one off this forum for $1,000 brand new with HC - that wasn't to long ago either

I also bought a AP Engineering one for $1300 delivered - people are asking anything up to $1600, it just depends on how hard you look

Basic ECU if you think so but it does everything you need it to do for a tuned street/track car

If you were going all out with a spastic track car - 1000hp style then I'd say AUTRONIC or MOTEC but whats the max he will go with an RB25, 300wkw maybe?

PFC is more than capable of handling that

Updated? What for - it does what its designed to do and always has

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209764-pfc-alternative/#findComment-3709239
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...