Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The GT3076R when I looked for and chose one looked like it'd be best used at around 22psi on a built RB25DET so there isn't a huge amount of use for it over that. Its a nice not overly laggy turbo on an RB25 so with 22psi there should be a huge fat power delivery, it'll be wicked for a road car that can do drag and track. Just because the engine CAN make 100hp/cyl doesn't mean you are obliged to - it just adds one part of the equation to get what you want out of it.

Highest power pump gas/power per litre car I've been in was a still 2litre EVO 2 running a .82a/r GT3582R running ~2bar of boost putting down just under 500whp (125whp/cyl), way faster than any daily driveable 4cyl street car should be.

Yeah i agree with you about having a drivable car and not necessarily having to run at the 100hp per cylinder mark. I figure most car enthusiests that do get to own a car that is stupidly over powered proably in the end gets rid of it and trades down to something with a more practical power range.

Personally i hate big turbo cars. Lag, followed by the lack of traction that follows. A problem caused by running a turbo so big that its flow is in the middle of its efficency range when the engine is at its redline. I much prefer having a car thats matched so that in the middle of its rev range, the turbo's are pumping at the middle of their efficency range as well.

And dam! 500rwhp in an evo! Those poor tyres... :D

Personally i hate big turbo cars. Lag, followed by the lack of traction that follows. A problem caused by running a turbo so big that its flow is in the middle of its efficency range when the engine is at its redline. I much prefer having a car thats matched so that in the middle of its rev range, the turbo's are pumping at the middle of their efficency range as well.

And dam! 500rwhp in an evo! Those poor tyres... :D

AWHP EVO, not rwhp haha - and it put its power down extremely well, its an absolute monster on a race track.

I don't mind big turbos, they have their place - I just hate it when people under or oversize their turbo for their setup. For example, that evo running 280degree cams and revving to >8000rpm on 29psi is running not overly short of the choke line of the compressor map at redline but it is a huge turbo on a small motor. On the other hand I reckon a lot of people on SAU using GT-RS are running them beyond their efficiency (both hot and cold side) and I'd hate to imagine what life would be in the exhaust manifold of those things.

Anyway, sorry to thread jack Nytsky - I find it hard to avoid this thread as I am amping to see how your car goes, when do you expect it to hit the dyno? :down:

(edit after seeing Cube's response) Yes, you hurry up too ;) I eagerly await both of your results and impression to help decide the fate of mine haha

Edited by Lithium
Yeah i agree with you about having a drivable car and not necessarily having to run at the 100hp per cylinder mark. I figure most car enthusiests that do get to own a car that is stupidly over powered proably in the end gets rid of it and trades down to something with a more practical power range.

Personally i hate big turbo cars. Lag, followed by the lack of traction that follows. A problem caused by running a turbo so big that its flow is in the middle of its efficency range when the engine is at its redline. I much prefer having a car thats matched so that in the middle of its rev range, the turbo's are pumping at the middle of their efficency range as well.

And dam! 500rwhp in an evo! Those poor tyres... :D

I ran a GT3076R .82 on my stock RB25 for 18 months, it was nice once you were moving, 1st gear and most of second was a nightmare because the turbo just hit so hard it would just wheel spin all over the place, even in 3rd it was a hand full coming into boost because of how hard it hit, more like a light switch, I then switched to a GT35R .82 and it was far better, much easier and more fun to drive, I can change gears at 5000rpm in 2nd into 3rd and stay at 1bar (my low boost), My customers RB25 is running a T04z and I personaly find that even easier to drive on the street in lower boost levels than the GT35 purely because its much smoother and more progressive coming into boost and having a 4000rpm band of 1.5bar makes it just as easy to drive as my GT35R (besides that it KILLS me in a straight line) I also find around a track that big turbo is also a lot easier to drive because you can give it a lot more pedal in and coming out of a corner and you can feel it starting to power up vs the smaller turbo's where they just hit and your left going sideways.

Just my 2c on why somtimes larger turbo's can actualy make it easier to drive.

lol you sooks

I run a GT3076 with a 0.63 rear, and it makes 314rwkw, and 720nm of torque.

Drives like a V8. Curve was exactly the same as my mates 300rwkw LS1, except he had a bit more torque under 3,000rpm.

I wish mine was like that, I would get to 3300rpm odd and BANG 1.5bar, tire smoke and drama, probably why I only managed an 11.6 with that turbo, the pull away was a nightmare almost always a 2.1 or 2.2 60ft. I think with the weight of your R33 vs my S14 also would make it a lot more noticible for me, I am now doing 1.8's and 1.9's with the GT35, high 10 here we come.

if its that bad maybe try a good boost controller, i know my avcr is able to be programmed for each gear and in 1000rpm increments, using one of those will get you the full power of the 3076 up top but more controllable down low.

I wish mine was like that, I would get to 3300rpm odd and BANG 1.5bar, tire smoke and drama, probably why I only managed an 11.6 with that turbo, the pull away was a nightmare almost always a 2.1 or 2.2 60ft. I think with the weight of your R33 vs my S14 also would make it a lot more noticible for me, I am now doing 1.8's and 1.9's with the GT35, high 10 here we come.

Maybe it was the setup? Were you running an aftermarket exhaust manifold?

I run the GT3076r .82 IW on the RB30DET. That pretty much makes a psi straight off idle then ~5psi at 2000rpm; 9psi at 2500rpm and then 19psi odd at 3100rpm.

Boost is fairly tractable with simply less throttle input; or I just grab the next gear and let the torque lug it out. :ermm:

Yeah it was an aftermarket top mount with 38mm tial, could happily run .8bar, but even with .8 it hit had with the Profec b set to zero everything low boost it would hit hard and would try to come in very fast around a track, then again my "coming in hard" could be different to your coming in hard, I stuck that turbo on an SR20 and it was a joy, came in beautifuly! even ran faster than me at the same boost :-(

Anyway, sorry to thread jack Nytsky - I find it hard to avoid this thread as I am amping to see how your car goes, when do you expect it to hit the dyno? :ermm:

(edit after seeing Cube's response) Yes, you hurry up too :) I eagerly await both of your results and impression to help decide the fate of mine haha

Will be going to the exhaust shop in a week or two,then its off to the tuners so it will be on the road in a month id say.

On a side note my throttle cable is now too short for the plenum and trottle adaptor.No matter how i run it,it wont work.There must be people running the same setup as me who have got around this problem. Any suggestions??

Will be going to the exhaust shop in a week or two,then its off to the tuners so it will be on the road in a month id say.

On a side note my throttle cable is now too short for the plenum and trottle adaptor.No matter how i run it,it wont work.There must be people running the same setup as me who have got around this problem. Any suggestions??

Z32 throttle cable

did you have to roll the gaurds to get the rears to clear?

what size tyres do you run?

Nope,did not roll the guards.The offset in the rear is +42,and 265 wide tyres. The tyre sits about 10mm away from the coilover.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...