Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

SK, I might be misunderstanding, are you saying that if the revs aren't excessive then the rods should be able to handle a lot more than 4-500hp? I have my 30 limited to 6800rpm, reckon I would be able to push more than 400rwhp on the stock rods with that limit?

The real question is what is excessive RPM? Remember RB30's barely reved over 6,000 rpm standard. Adding around 500 rpm = double the load on the pistons and rods, so at 6,800 rpm you are already way more than double the standard loading.

Cheers

Gary

Hmm, well that's not very comforting :/

Would it be advisable to lower the limiter? I don't rev past 6000rpm now anyway due to the tiny rb25 turbo choking the engine up and I've got taller diff ratios which help with the lesser rpm..

I imagine with the GT35R strapped on there I'm going to have an abundance of torque and might not necessarily need to rev it to 6800..

Hmm, well that's not very comforting :domokun:

Would it be advisable to lower the limiter? I don't rev past 6000rpm now anyway due to the tiny rb25 turbo choking the engine up and I've got taller diff ratios which help with the lesser rpm..

I imagine with the GT35R strapped on there I'm going to have an abundance of torque and might not necessarily need to rev it to 6800..

Im going to be reving mine to 7200 once its tuned, I reckon 6800 is being a bit too concervative especially with forgies make sure you got a really good tune and it shoud be apples!

Im going to be reving mine to 7200 once its tuned, I reckon 6800 is being a bit too concervative especially with forgies make sure you got a really good tune and it shoud be apples!

I was answering a question about standard rods and pistons, hence the mention of the 6,000 rpm

Cheers

Gary

I was answering a question about standard rods and pistons, hence the mention of the 6,000 rpm

Cheers

Gary

Fair enough, just want to get this straight in my head are you saying not to rev over 6k with stock pistons and rods?

Fair enough, just want to get this straight in my head are you saying not to rev over 6k with stock pistons and rods?

If only it were that simple. There is more than one limit on the strength of components question, there is knock, boost, RPM and torque to start off with. Keeping in mind that BHP is simply torque x rpm. For example, I hear quite often 400 rwhp is OK on the standard components. Well it isn't if you are using 7,500 rpm. It also isn't OK if you are running 1.5 bar of boost. Not to mention 70 plus knock all the time. My rule of thumb is quite simple, no more than 475 bhp (around 300 rwkw), 1 bar of boost, zero knock and 6,500 rpm limit. A standard internals RB30 will live a long life within those limits, I built one in 1999 that is still going strong.

Cheers

Gary

  • 3 weeks later...
What about machining? some people say they've had theirs machined, though i thought RB30 cranks were nitrided from the factory and therefore, not a good idea to get them machined? can they be re-nitrided?

Yes, although if the crank needs machining, its easier/cheaper to get one that doesn't

had mine machined etc and even nitrided for good measure. Argo rods, ceramic coated cp pistons, jun pump and collar, ati balancer... All balanced. Setting rev limit to 8000rpm...although it will only be bounching at that over the dyno..I think street tune will be 7000rpm.

  • 2 weeks later...
stock crank nitrided i can vouch has handled 1068 rwhp @9000rpm 10 000rpm in burnout also threw 2 rods and the crank was still true. but im very interested in the stroker kit for the rb30

was there any mods done to the block???

block was std never ran an oversize over 87mm yet,usuals like drilled galleries gtr head studs etc

this year the engine is grout filled running methanol and is solid mounted

Edited by jas/slo32
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
    • your right the maps for Australia came out in 2017 but are 2010 maps. i got the updated maps SD card put it in and it was the same. Same maps in my Brothers Nissan Patrol. 2020 i think his car is
×
×
  • Create New...