Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gtr Beaten By Pensioner Driven Camry

DriftKings.com
 Share

Recommended Posts

DriftKings.com Apprentice

DriftKings.com

Posted
Posted

Hi Everyone,

I have come to another obstacle after a cylinder being dropped was solved yesterday. It is a stock R33 GTR, the problem is that it stops revving after boost hits about +3.5 on the GTR gauge as pictured:-

Stops%20Boosting.jpg

Also it usually happens around the 4,000rpm range and upwards as pictured:-

tacho.jpg

THE PROBLEM

* Happens through out all gears. So when driving the car starts coming on boost, it hits roughly around the +3.5 mark and you can hear the roaring from under the bonnet, it doesnt rev anymore, i try to drive it out, but nothing, i have to bring it off boost by taking the foot off or changing gears.

* The car was running about 15-16L per 100km previously and doing 300-350km per tank. In the last 2 fills the fuel consumption has become 22-23L per 100km, it drank 54.78L over 239km which is ridiculous.

* The oil temp is slightly higher then what it used to be also. It would have been approx 90-100 degrees before and now it might be 100-110 degrees

HISTORY

Since having the car a less then 2 months ago. I have changed engine oil - engine flushed, oil filter, spark plugs (on the 4th set), air filter, fuel filter, coolant - radiator flushed, made sure all coil packs were healthy, made sure all fuel injectors were healthy, made sure ignitor module was healthy, made sure ECU was healthy, this was due to a problem which was sorted yesterday. Also had to replace the rear muffler with another original unit and fix the leaks in the front of the stock exhaust system. Obviously the cat that came from japan was changed for a new one when it was being complied. So exhaust now has no leaks.

Other things which were changed i dont think would effect what is happening is stereo head unit, front speakers, machine brake rotors, bleed brakes.

PREVIOUS PROBLEM FIXED:- 1st Cylinder Down

If anyone has had similar problems, or would know of a fix please let me know. Thanks for all the wisdom.

brother_david Rising Star

brother_david

Posted
Posted

Sounds like a problem i had when testdriving a (tuned) R33 GTR, just when boost build up it starts to stutter and really dont wanna rev any more, and you dont wanna either!

Turned out to be broken lambda(s).

Hope it gets sorted!

limpus Mentor

limpus

Posted
Posted

Another possibility is a blocked cat...it has been known to happen...takes 5 mins to check...however my first guess would be a leak in the piping somewhere...

On a side note...you're not the first skyline owner to be humbled by a camry...i know of a 33stst driver from here that got axed by a camry...and then he got a 34gtt and got axed by everything else...following that he got a 33gtr and we're waiting to see what else gets him...

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

It's not a leak in the turbo piping - the engine is making 3.5 x 100mm Hg boost (approx 7psi).

It WILL NOT be O2 sensors - the ECU ignores them while boost is happening. They may, however, be contributing to the poor fuel economy. But that may also be caused by trying to "drive through" the present problem.

If the car has been fitted with larger aftermarket turbos, it might be suffering compressor surge.

Check ignition timing.

DriftKings.com Apprentice

DriftKings.com

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Thanks to all who have contributed and helped me where to look. I have gone over O2 Sensor, AFM's, Turbo's, Intercooler Piping, Clamps, Hoses, No fuel leaks, and it isnt the fuel pump as i checked it with the previous problem.

I thought it might have been a blocked cat but its only 3-4 weeks old and i had the exhaust fixed 2-3 weeks ago, wouldnt he have noticed :-P

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

PROBLEM FIXED

* Today the O2 sensor was checked to make sure it wasnt broken, cracked, or rattling. The Intercooler piping was checked, all hoses were removed and all clamps checked, these were then replaced after passing the inspection. Removed both AFM's and checked them, sprayed them with Contact Cleaner along with the plugs.

* Reset the ECU and VROOOM, it goes... :-)

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

One thing left is to see if that fixed the fuel consumption. Will Keep you all updated on this.

Now i wanna see that 60yo pensioner camry driver go me. Before i was in 3rd or 4th gear when it hit 60-70kms. What chance did i have LOL. I just let the old dude think he beat a GTR with his mrs next to him. He needs all the testosteroe cranking through him as much as he could hehehehe

Thanks again to all members of SAU, My R33 GTR Thanks you also...

Edited by DriftKings.com
DriftKings.com Apprentice

DriftKings.com

Posted
  • Author
Posted
yeah the old pensioners sure love their track racing..

1995 R33 GTR vs Toyota Camry (60yo Pensioner Driving)

Hmmm, let me tell you the story. It was around a left hand corner, he was leading... After that there was about 200m up the straight away before there was only enough room for one car... and he won... :-P

Play by play, we go through the corner, im in 1st, still going through the left hander, i snap it into 2nd. By this time we're doing 25km/h, my foot goes down and i move quickly to the left as he takes the right on the straight away. I can see the camry blowing some smoke as they floor it. The GTR accelerates to 40km/h and i have shift it into 3rd, my foot goes to the floor and the GTR moves up to 55km/h screaming its head off. I look over at the occupants of the Camry, they're an elderly couple in their 60's. I can see the light, there is an opening as the nose of the skyline is to the rear doors of the Camry, I move it quickly into 4th and stomp on the accelerator, i move up to the front passenger door of the camry with 30metres left by this time im doing about 65km/h. 60 some thing year old looks over and smiles as he suceeds holding position. I have to drop back and fall in line on the right. DAMN, lost to a Camry. Shamed. LOL.

Enjoy!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...