Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my opinion of the R32 is: R32 with RB25DET > *

you got the style, looks and power out of a small comfortable car.

even the RB20 with stock internals, decent turbo, cams, injectors and computer will set you up nicely.

on the other hand, my opinion of the R33:

r33_boat.jpg

that is all. ;)

that's the best looking boat i've ever seen...

  • Replies 165
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I know that if I were to have a daily I would definately want something with a decent interior so I would recommend an R33, possibly the Series II because they look much nicer on the outside than a stock series I. Just had mine tuned and pulled 270hp with pfc some more boost and basic mods and she goes quite well. 450km+ to a tank.

On the other hand if its great distances that you are travelling then 32 because they deserve to be run into the ground like a beat up VL haha

my opinion of the R32 is: R32 with RB25DET > *

you got the style, looks and power out of a small comfortable car.

even the RB20 with stock internals, decent turbo, cams, injectors and computer will set you up nicely.

on the other hand, my opinion of the R33:

r33_boat.jpg

that is all. ;)

faster in the water than r32's are on land

/stir

Hanging is too good for R33 owners....and so continues the downward trend of this thread ;)

But to the original poster, just shop around and look at both models. Sooner or later you will find an example that you tick most boxes and will like. It could be an R32, could be an R33. There is no point comparing stock ones as there are more modified ones out there then stock

exact same mods to a 32 and 33, and the 32 is slower? geee, reallly?????! derrr! dont hav to be a fregin scientist to firgure that one out.

evryone knows stock for stock the 33 is faster...and if u mod them in the same way ofcouse the 33 will be faster..

my 32gtst has only a few minor mods (exhaust,fmic,11psi,ecu remap) and it will get to 100 in mid 5's on crappy rear tyres...

so u may hav to mod the 32 a lil more...pfft, who cares, atleast ur in a car that looks better than the thousands of boat 33's drivin around...i see them every single day...ugly as hell itself.

they dont even get a second look, 33's just blend into the b/ground like commodores.

if u want sumthin special a nice clean 32 is the way ;)

my32_atAces_2_small.jpg

Can't believe the amount of morons ARGUING about the look of the 2 models...particularly you 32line

When will you get it through your thick heads that aesthetics are 100% opinion based and should not factor into a debate like this as its up to each individual as to which they prefer...

You can say R33's are ugly until your blue in the face, but no amount of dribbling can make that an indisputable fact.

As for everyone mentioning the weight of the R33 and how its such a 'boat', its always humerous to note that they never seem to mention that an R34 is heavier still.

Improved suspension, safety etc will all add to the weight...so while yo drive around in your 'super lightweight race car' the rest of us will drive around in our superior boats.

that was well said.. although i do agree on the interior.. my interior eats ass even thou its a GTR...

R33 = much better inside :thumbsup:

and another point.. 32line.. u want a special r32?? stop makin it look like something it aint.. its not a GTR. lose the wing, lose the front bar and skirts

want it special?? get something no1 has.

There is a few r32's out there now going for some pretty cheap prices too. Well under the 10k mark, and that's for turbo manual models.

Have owned both, with my first skyline being a series 2, r33. absolutely fantastic to drive, and literally nothing ever went wrong with it in the 1.5 years i owned it.

bought a r32 after that, and the differences are pretty noticable. the rb20det is pointless. the only way i could get the car to do sub 14 quarter miles is if i threw it off a cliff. the interior is a lot less comfortable, and a lot more noisy.

at the same time, the car handles ten times better, and i don't feel like i am about to plow into the country side when i take a sharp turn.

so now have put a rb25det into it, which makes the car fantastic to drive. noticably quicker than the r33, with the same ammount of mods. now i just gotta get some bigger brakes for it, as the r32 ones aren't up to scratch.

as for the interior and noise, i just drive with the music a bit louder :thumbsup: and will hopefully get some recaros by the end of the month.

that was well said.. although i do agree on the interior.. my interior eats ass even thou its a GTR...

R33 = much better inside :)

and another point.. 32line.. u want a special r32?? stop makin it look like something it aint.. its not a GTR. lose the wing, lose the front bar and skirts

want it special?? get something no1 has.

hahah, 32's look shit stock...33's look even worse. hence the gtr bits. btw...the skirts are the standard type M ones made for gtst :D

and dezz i am aware aesthetics are 100% opinion based, but i love to stir 33 owners in sh*t pointless threads like this one :D

32 FTW!

mwhahahahahahahahahaha!!!

I would compare RB25 to a similar capacity motor like RB26.

SR20, RB20 are more even, as they are in the same 2.0 litre class

and produce around the same peak hp (600-700hp) when modified.

Also look at what the RB20DET was competing against in the 80's

(Japan, Australia, UK).

That would be Honda Civic, Ford Cosworth, BMW M3, etc.

Edited by SKYPER
that was well said.. although i do agree on the interior.. my interior eats ass even thou its a GTR...

R33 = much better inside :)

and another point.. 32line.. u want a special r32?? stop makin it look like something it aint.. its not a GTR. lose the wing, lose the front bar and skirts

want it special?? get something no1 has.

The gtr kit is the best looking and most functional kit you can get for the 32 gtst. Not everyone with a gtr kit wants a gtr, get over it

ps hows the blown motor going haha gtr's FTL

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...