Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

im about to install my Apexi Power Fc D-jetro into my r33 gtr

so i need to know where to drill the holes for the vacum in my inlet manifold and how big to drill (what size drill bit)

where to run the harness and map sensors?

and what ever else i would need to know

i did try searching but didnt have any luck

thankyou kindly

I've never installed one of these myself - but why can't you just use one of the existing vacuum lines? there is one at the rear of the inlet manifold (after the throttles), one at the rear of the plenum (before the throttles) and the line to the BOV or FPR.

YOu drill into runner three and four into the section betweem the head and the throttles. I used 1/8 bsp fittings which require a 8.8mm drill bit, and a tap. To do it properly is a full days job, removing the plenum & throttles etc. Just make sure you get some gaskets, and dont clean the throttles.

dont know but when you find the answer please let me know, ill add to the pfc faq

I noticed by fitting it the right way I had much better tune. Lot smoother, better response, better economy, and lot less time in tuning.

By teeing it off the fpr and factory boost gauge line took so much time in tuning and still doesnt go as good as the other.

I noticed by fitting it the right way I had much better tune. Lot smoother, better response, better economy, and lot less time in tuning.

By teeing it off the fpr and factory boost gauge line took so much time in tuning and still doesnt go as good as the other.

Have to agree....the added air volume of the vac rail must dampen the signal or something. Its worth the effort to tap the runners.

Duncan musta been tired :3some:

Running a motor off a MAP sender straight up, is a feat in its own.

Your using a pressure sensing device in the manifold to assist the ECU, in guessing what mass of air is being ingested. Comparing that to a one of these "AFM" contraptions, that spits out a voltage, fairly relative to the direct mass thats going through it?... The ECU's job with a MAP sender as main load deriver is much harder.

Single throttle blades make it so much easier. Theres a 10L+ plenum that blends and muddy's up inlet pulses, making life so much easier for a MAP ECU (baring in mind, in this instance AFM's are better for ridiculous cams)

.. On the other hand, you have a 6 throttle blade RB26 setup, where you need to take a air sample from between the throttle body and inlet valve (wot? 3 inches max) on EACH cylinder... then combine that into ONE accumulated pressure zone to stick the MAP sender in...

Getting to the point :) The two MAP senders with the D-Jetro, i would have thought, need to be spaced geometrically equal along the length of the .. (collection tube, i think Nissan call it) in an attempt to gain a true manifold pressure reading, as per Adrian's post.

Important maybe, is that i myself have never personally owned and tuned a MAP referenced car. These thoughts are purely from my peers experiences and my deductions; debunk away.

There is a diagram in the D-Jetro manual that shows where and how to do them. but as stated above, it's runners 3 and 4 post throttle. I have the manual somewhere, but god knows where. maybe someone else with one can scan that for your page Paul?

Have to agree....the added air volume of the vac rail must dampen the signal or something. Its worth the effort to tap the runners.

haha yeah, i went the lazy route first then after a few drives and pulls was not happy with the way it traced throught the map.... re did it the correct way and the result was 1000% better.

Take it from ben and myself that if you are going to the effort of a D-JETRO then do it right, the system STR8E180 has posted pics of works poorly.

haha yeah, i went the lazy route first then after a few drives and pulls was not happy with the way it traced throught the map.... re did it the correct way and the result was 1000% better.

Tae it from ben and myself that if you are going to the effort of a D-JETRO then do it right, the system STR8E180 has posted pics of works poorly.

Gold.

:P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...