Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 151
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey mate,

It's all coming along great. Should be finished in a month or less. I was going to send out a mass email to let you all know, but email addresses aren't listed in profiles and the email function doesn't work. Makes it difficult not knowing who is checking in on this thread. But I do have the list of who has confirmed their order:

sidewaymambo

nismoman18

eriktufa

Salps12

2crazy

NRB

Endorean

Some of those guys have emailed me, so I know their email addresses, but not all of you. If you haven't, and you're reading this, it would be useful if you email me at blahboy AT iinet.net.au, so I can pass on my bank account details to take deposits and payment. Cheers!

Hi guys,

I think it is time I took deposits, or full payments if you are inclined. Full package is $70, minus tripod is $65, and deposit is $35. I will obviously keep track of who pays for what.

For those of you who provided email addresses, I will email you after posting this.

Please contact me via email (blahboy *at* iinet.net.au) if you do not have means of depositing funds into the bank account.

Also below will be a list of people I have down as confirmed orders. If you want a camera mount and your name is not on this list, contact me as soon as possible. As incentive, units purchased outside of this group buy will cost more.

My bank account details:

Bank: Commonwealth Bank

Name: Peter Lo

BSB and Acc No: 062-037 2804 6968

Please include your SAU nick in the transaction description.

Confirmed orders from SAU: (including people who

sidewaymambo

nismoman18 (no tripod)

eriktufa

Salps12

2crazy

NRB

Endorean

Scotsman

phantc_s15

Also if you have the dimensions of the mount could you email me them as when I go buy a camera I need to make sure it fits!

:D

Don't worry, as long as it's not an unusually large camera, it will fit. If it's a modern video camera (ie MiniDV or MicroDV) it will fit. :D

I'll get those details just before I send them out.

ETA right now about 2 weeks. As usual, it's the aluminium place that's being a royal PITA. Not only is their customer service poor, but now it looks like they're trying to rip us off - the parts are heaps more expensive than my last order, even though I ordered less last time! This will be cleared up today or tomorrow.

Met up with sidewaymambo today, he didn't have his camera with him, but I showed him how the mount could be set up front or rear.

It appears that in an R33 at least, a tripod may not be necessary, as the base of the mount rests directly on the rear seats or on the front dash. A non-slip mat is useful for resting the mount on, to provide lateral grip. So, if it sounds like you do not need a tripod, let me know - if you've given me full payment, I can give you $5 back when we meet, or if I will be sending the mount to you, then the $5 will count towards postage. Having said that, the tripod doesn't cost much, and may be useful in certain situations. And if you have a stills camera, the mini tripod is definitely handy to have.

speaking of camera mounts... anyone know where i can get one of those ones they mount on the outside of the door? just back and out from the wheel?

You mean something like this?

mount2.jpg

Bakadesu got one of those off me recently to use with a really nice CCD camera he has. To be on the safe side, I would say that the ball mount should only be used for something like that, or the lighter Mini/MicroDV cameras, for rolling footage. The ball mount provides massive flexibility for setting up whatever angles you choose.

The cost of one is up around the $70 mark, mainly from the Hama ball mount (made in Germany). If you want to make one yourself, I can supply you the parts, it's quite simple to put together as Bakadesu will attest to.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...