Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey just a question...beofre i change my stock steering wheel...

i got a series2 r33, with dual air-bags...

is it possible for me to swap my stock steering with an aftermarket one and a uses a boss kit??

i heard that coz it has ait-bag on the steering wheel...boss kit/s arn't available or designed for air-bag wheels...

is this so??? :|

or is that just crap, and i can use a series 1 or 2 boss kit...???

and my other question is...

and will the passenger air-bag still work??? hence having the air-bag light on??

or what??

thanks

you should be able to, only problem wit that is your air bag light will be on. they have a kit at just jap but its a bit pricey.

all airbags are set up with a backup power supply incase the battery cable is cut during an accident. It will flash a code 51 or 52.

Edited by AdamsFast1
removing a steering wheel that has an airbag for a wheel that has no airbag is illegal

i would recommend getting someone who knows what they are doing to change it if you must have an aftermarket wheel

+1

Yep, 100% illegal... so becareful on that note

dont care about the illegal crap..

cops in Australia are idiots!!

i'll say came like that wen i bought it from japan..and get got complianced that way..lol

but yeah..anyone got a series2 with dual bags wit an aftermarket steeering wheel fitted????

*****stay on topic please******

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

i also have an r33 with 2 airbags but mine have been diploid cause the car was in a crash.

i got new passanger side airbag but i dont have the drivers side yet because ive got a problem. the steering wheel that was on the car is an s14 one and cant seem to find an airbag anywhere.. but i can find plenty of r33 ones.. but then the plastic thing at the back of the wheel that turns. will i have to replce that aswell. and will all the connectors match?

bit hard to explain hope you guys understand what im trying to say..??

agreed with gunmetalgrey... keep the stock steering wheel, it looks nice.

and saves MOMO being stamped into your head if/when you have a crash :banana:

Agree with this too, there is nothing wrong with how the stock wheel looks or feels in my opinion.

bumble_bee you should put some deep thought into keeping it legal. While an officer might not pick it up, he will most probably pick up on a FMIC or an exhaust or a pod. He ticks a box to have your car sent to the pits and then the steering wheel will be picked up. Also, I'm pretty sure that wherever you bought the car from will keep some kind of record of what the car did and didn't have when they imported it and sold it. If I had that job I'd be covering my arse pretty well from people like you :P

  • 4 months later...

So no one's actually removed their standard R33 Series 2 steering wheel for an aftermarket one?

It's pretty hard to believe. But if anyone has and doesn't want to post here plz send me a pm

Cheers

Ever thought of a different steering wheel that has an airbag? Some of them are nice, the 98 Spec Integra Type R Momo Airbag wheel looks aaite...

65341359_full.jpg

Is it possible? What about a GTR one or are they the same?

Edited by gotRICE?

i don't think many people change the series 2 steering wheel cuz it doesn't look shit like the series one, but as someone said to my mate your an idiot if you get rid of an airbag. If you are in the right frame of mind you just wouldn't do it.

Ever thought of a different steering wheel that has an airbag? Some of them are nice, the 98 Spec Integra Type R Momo Airbag wheel looks aaite...

65341359_full.jpg

Is it possible? What about a GTR one or are they the same?

Just cause another car has a steering wheel with an airbag in it doesn't mean it will fit your car. The momo R33 40th anniversary airbag steering wheel is the only one im aware that will fit without modification. Never seen any other airbag steering wheels fitted.

  • 2 weeks later...

hey,, thought i would pop into this.. ive been trying to get my wheel of for a while. i have removed air bag and all the bolts, the main to with the star key and the main bolt on the wheel. but it will not pull off?.. any one got any tips? or and special way to get these off..

im putting on a aftermarket airbad wheel that i scored from japan.. so much nicer then my s2 wheel :down:

I know the last thing i would want in an accident is to hit the sterring wheel with your head hard. Leave the standard one mate, it looks good and not worth getting into shit by the cops over it.

Some of the 1998 40th anniversary ones came with a optional Momo steering wheel that came with the airbag (ask dezz for pics). Looks the goods too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...