Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Mine stock pulled: 160kwrw mark

With Cat back : 175kwrw

So full turbo back should expect up to 180kwrw im assuming? But then i read this thing about how an extra dump pipe could give loss of power without tune.

Also, what i'd like to know is which shops dyno run reads higher or lower.

Apparently UAS claims their dyno reads lower than others, and thats where i did my dyno run.

Belgarage, i heard reads accurately lower than others as well.

CRD, apparently reads too much higher than other places that ppl coming from CRD to dyno at other places get dissapointed with their runs.

Are there any more opinions on which place is accurate?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218766-dyno-in-sydney/#findComment-3860050
Share on other sites

ah yer i agree hitman is the best for tuning but regarding power runs does hitman show generally accurate kw?

So what i mean is, after hitman have tuned ur car, have you actually went elsewhere to dyno run and see whether it is actually 60+ kw?

Edited by R33Turbo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218766-dyno-in-sydney/#findComment-3860410
Share on other sites

CRD, apparently reads too much higher than other places that ppl coming from CRD to dyno at other places get dissapointed with their runs.

And i suppose John "Pelican" at unique fed you that dribble...ive heard him say it to customers time and time again about so called "Croydon Watts"...heres some proof

My car

CRD 439kw...the next day at Autosalon Sydney 437kw

CRD 467kw (at night with cold air) the next day at Autosalon Newcastle 455kw (the heat of the day in an auditorium with not much fresh air)

CRD 486kw...the next day at Autosalon final battle Sydney 487kw then the next day took a little bit of fuel out of it to push it over 500kw with 502.4kw.

Both dyno's are of a different make from Croydon (Dynodynamics) and Autosalon (Mainline dynolog), and the dyno in Newcastle is a different Mainline Dynolog to the one used in Sydney.

They are so accurate because they are used by skilled operators with more years of experience than most people on here have been alive.

So please don't post hearsay dribble you get fed from other workshops.

And just for the record I no longer have any affiliation with Croydon Racing.

Edited by DiRTgarage
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218766-dyno-in-sydney/#findComment-3860411
Share on other sites

lol dirtgarage, for the record i don't take john's word and where ive heard this is from a mate (customer of CRD owns a WRX) who dyno ran and pulled 180kw then went to Autotek and pulled 150kw. And now i don't know how the weather was like but it shouldn't of made more than 10kw difference if it were to be accurate. And please don't tell me autotek is just inaccurately low, cuz then how would they get business for tuning? lol

anywayz no offence to CRD affiliates like youself

P.S. im only giving my opinion here from my experience and my friends experience, and please don't take anything offensive or you might break my engine when i go to u to rebuild it :P

Edited by R33Turbo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218766-dyno-in-sydney/#findComment-3860436
Share on other sites

lol dirtgarage, for the record i don't take john's word and where ive heard this is from a mate (customer of CRD owns a WRX) who dyno ran and pulled 180kw then went to Autotek and pulled 150kw. And now i don't know how the weather was like but it shouldn't of made more than 10kw difference if it were to be accurate. And please don't tell me autotek is just inaccurately low, cuz then how would they get business for tuning? lol

anywayz no offence to CRD affiliates like youself

P.S. im only giving my opinion here from my experience and my friends experience, and please don't take anything personally or offensive or you might break my engine when i go to u to rebuild it :P

no offence...just thought id post up some reality. Ive heard John Pelican dribble that line more times than Ive cared to remember. Autotek may have their dyno set differently...both CRD and Autosalon use industry standard locked perameters (shootout) so that figures all over Aust. can be directly compared. It is extremely accurate, as most competitors will agree and all CRD's cars have made nearly identical power at Autosalon whether it be in Adelaide, Melbourne, Brisbane, Gold Coast, Sydney or Newcastle. its no co-incidence, its a fact than can be backed up numerous times with concrete evidence witnessed in front of thousands of onlookers.

Again im no longer affiliated with CRD so i gain no benefit from sharing some real results.

You engine is in safe hands at Red R...heck id even build one for Sydneykid if i had too. :D

Edited by DiRTgarage
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218766-dyno-in-sydney/#findComment-3860477
Share on other sites

You engine is in safe hands at Red R...heck id even build one for Sydneykid if i had too. :)

lol npz ill be there in near future.

Just a question though, about UAS in ur personal opinion are they accurate? apparently Tim from UAS says it reads generally lower especially on cold weather and not hot (due to some adjustments made for weather changes). What is ur opinion on this?

I only ask cuz u said on a cold weather ur dyno kw was better than it was on a hot weather.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218766-dyno-in-sydney/#findComment-3861203
Share on other sites

Basically no dynos are directly comparable, as Paul said even in shootout mode you can accidently or deliberately get differences in temperatures and settings that give different results.

No doubt some workshops are a little harsh in the readings they give customers before they work on the car, and a little generous afterwards to make it look like they have done more than they have. This is particularly true when people have had their cars "tuned" when they have a stock, untuneable computer....

If you really want an accurate place to compare power output, take it to the drag strip and post up you MPH. No settings to play around with there, just a stop watch

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218766-dyno-in-sydney/#findComment-3861228
Share on other sites

Basically no dynos are directly comparable, as Paul said even in shootout mode you can accidently or deliberately get differences in temperatures and settings that give different results.

No doubt some workshops are a little harsh in the readings they give customers before they work on the car, and a little generous afterwards to make it look like they have done more than they have. This is particularly true when people have had their cars "tuned" when they have a stock, untuneable computer....

If you really want an accurate place to compare power output, take it to the drag strip and post up you MPH. No settings to play around with there, just a stop watch

i agree 100%. :):P;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218766-dyno-in-sydney/#findComment-3861524
Share on other sites

If you really want an accurate place to compare power output, take it to the drag strip and post up you MPH. No settings to play around with there, just a stop watch

oh alright, the thing is i could never understand how much power a car made by looking at mph.

For example, mine in my sig how would u determine that?

Edited by R33Turbo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218766-dyno-in-sydney/#findComment-3861581
Share on other sites

Unfortunately I'm not one of those people lol. But 100mph seems a bit slow for a 13.7? Ask in the drag section they will sort you out.

easy...just use a calculator...like this...

http://www.eldemoniorojo.com/calculator.htm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218766-dyno-in-sydney/#findComment-3861716
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
×
×
  • Create New...