Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Entries and Supp Regs are now available forSandown.

Entries - http://www.wrx.com.au/motorsport/Sandown_1_june_Entry.pdf

Supp Regs - http://www.wrx.com.au/motorsport/Sandown_supregs.pdf

Anyone wishing to help out on the day, please email your intentions to [email protected]

***ENRTY LIST - http://www.wrx.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=49533

PLEASE NOTE:- advice from CAMS re Sandown entry

From the 1st May 2008 we will be using the Princes Hwy overpass Gates to access Sandown racecourse.

The gates will be open every day from 6:15am until 5pm or later on event days.

The Alamein Street & Sandown Road Gates will now be locked except for major events.

********

This event is part of the 2008 SAU Vic Motorsport Championships, proudly sponsored by:

header-left.jpg

rpm2s.jpg

recustoms.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219133-sandown-sun-1-june-club-cship-rnd-4/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 172
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I'm very keen to enter this to try an score a better PB....unfort due to various reasons I haven't had a chance to change my clutch yet and am in two minds whether to go with a slipping clutch or not.

Sweet, entry faxed this morning. its good to be close to home so that when your brakes boil... or you hit a wall that the trailer can be hired from just up the raod. come to think of it i've never made it out of sandown in one piece! :whistling:

LOL, im with you big daddy. Lets hope both of us can get through the day without giving that armco on the back striaght hell :whistling:

I'm just checking the suppentary regs to make sure my car is ok for this event.

I just want to get some confirmation about the seat belts. The type C lap sash is all I need right? So the standard belt in the car? Can somebody please confirm.

I should probably think about a full harness anyway. If I do get one are there particular ones you guys would recommend or a good place to get em? Revolution Racegear?

Thanks guys.

Std seat belt is ok, and often preferred over poorly installed harnesses.

Try Speedzone for some well priced ERG harnesses. And be sure to mount the harness so not to hurt yourself in an accident. There is no real easy way in an R32, i used the std rear seat belt points for a while, but after my Sandown accident realised the risk i was taking and got a harness bar in a cage just to be sure the harness is doing what it needs to.

It depends on what you want to do with the back seat and how much trouble you are willing to go to

I don't mind having the back seat out. What are the risks of using the standard rear seat points?

This 4pt one looks good. http://www.speedzone.com.au/trader.asp?id=5016

Do you have a front tow point on your car?

I don't mind having the back seat out. What are the risks of using the standard rear seat points?

This 4pt one looks good. http://www.speedzone.com.au/trader.asp?id=5016

Do you have a front tow point on your car?

Russ...The harness belts that go over your shoulder have to be between 0 and a 45deg angle (best is horizontal...or close too).....the reason being that in the event of a stack the belts don't get pulled tighter and crush your spine. The std rear seat mounting points are close to this 45deg max angle and therefore if you have the option mount it to a harness bar (mounted between the rear susp towers) or attach to a roll cage.

As long as your std front tow hook is accessible there is no need for a front tow hook to be fitted...just make sure you know where it is so you can point it out to any rescue (also keep in mind that your car might be a little bogged when checking out the std tow hook posi)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...