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buy another dump pipe as suggested . I've bought a couple of JJR units and all of them were cheap but, basically the build quality was crap. They all needed work done to fit properly and all of them I hav seen have flange missalignments that lead to at best poor flow and at worst stop the wastegate flap.

You are going to keep a stainless dump pipe for a vey long time so save up a couple of extra months and do it right once.

+1 :ninja:

you get what you pay for, jjr is known to be cheap and nasty. alot of people buy cheap aftermarket parts and wonder why their car is playing up. buy trusted/tested and well known products that have been proven to work and you wont run into trouble and end up spending more then you should, do it right the first time and save.

:)

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thanks guys.

yer i dont want to have to worry and muckaround with a brand new front pipe!!!

what brands are good then?

Dan.

your obviously running a stock turbo? don’t bother with a dump pipe, just buy a front pipe that runs from the factory dump pipe. it will be more then enough flow for you application.

i don’t want to favour brands here but anything like hpi, trust or even powerplay have their own front pipe that they make and sell, have fitted a few of them and they work like a charm.

:)

Haha i havnt bothered to fix it, i rarely drive the car. I dont see how they thought such a small hole for the wastegate was ever going to work properly.

Also Dan it has nothing to do with the r32 actuator. Even my stock one, which is on now touches

my r32 split dump does it to, though its got a r33 turbo, on my rb20 1st gear will boost to 14psi with the stock 33 5psi actuator from the flap hitting the inside,

This is interesting. I have the same JJR split dump pipe on my R33, and my dyno shows that , in 4th gear where i would assume its under the most load, it creeps all the way to 11.2psi @ 5800rpm. And at this load, i would assume the flap would be wide open? And it certainly starts to taper off after 6000rpm. And that would say to me its more than likely not going to spike any higher, unless its very cold maybe.

The only boost mod is the R33 "Hi-boost" mod. I wouldnt mind having a steady 10psi all the way across the board. Will have to invest in some sort of controller.

Maybe i got lucky with mine clearing? I have an Apexi EL2 boost gague on the way from Nengun, so more close monitoring will be done when i hit the track next month. I just guessed seeing the dyno showed 11.2psi it was fairly safe and accurate. I hope im right :closedeyes:

SkylineBoostPlot-1.jpg

Ignore that bit at the end. I think it hit speed cut and had a spazz.

Edited by gotRICE?

^^ looks like your wastegate isn't opening fully either. A proper dyno curve for boost pressure should show the pressure jumping up to a set value as revs increase, and then holding that value. No higher.

You are building about 8psi boost which is normal for the solenoid "high boost" mod. After that you're getting boost creep. I would fix it before hitting the track, if I were you. Toss the chinese knockoff shit back at the company you bought it from and buy a proper dump pipe :closedeyes:

This is interesting. I have the same JJR split dump pipe on my R33, and my dyno shows that , in 4th gear where i would assume its under the most load, it creeps all the way to 11.2psi @ 5800rpm. And at this load, i would assume the flap would be wide open? And it certainly starts to taper off after 6000rpm. And that would say to me its more than likely not going to spike any higher, unless its very cold maybe.

The only boost mod is the R33 "Hi-boost" mod. I wouldnt mind having a steady 10psi all the way across the board. Will have to invest in some sort of controller.

Maybe i got lucky with mine clearing? I have an Apexi EL2 boost gague on the way from Nengun, so more close monitoring will be done when i hit the track next month. I just guessed seeing the dyno showed 11.2psi it was fairly safe and accurate. I hope im right :)

SkylineBoostPlot-1.jpg

Ignore that bit at the end. I think it hit speed cut and had a spazz.

that is definatly creeping mate, get rid of the cheap crap :closedeyes:

What do you guys think/have heard of the HPI Dual Front Pipe?any good?

Im thinking of now as you said leaving the standard dump on and just doing the front pipe and high flow cat (catco or xforce?ceremic or metal?) because while running stock turbs and low power this will be more than enough flow?! Then when i get more power/upgrade turbs get a split dump/dump to suit(will it just bolt in?)?!

What are your thoughts guys???

Cheers Dan.

Ha yeah i figured! All i can say is im glad its not creeping past the stock 33 turbo "limit" 11psi should be fine.

something is definately wrong with yours. look at how slow it is to get to 11psi. it doesn't hit 11psi till nearly 6,000rpm!!! stock turbo should hit 11psi about 2,000rpm earlier than that and the boost curve should be no where near that slow. this is a sure sign of a wastegate problem (or in this case a dump pipe problem).

something is definately wrong with yours. look at how slow it is to get to 11psi. it doesn't hit 11psi till nearly 6,000rpm!!! stock turbo should hit 11psi about 2,000rpm earlier than that and the boost curve should be no where near that slow. this is a sure sign of a wastegate problem (or in this case a dump pipe problem).

Darnit! lol. Might have to go back to the stock dump pipe. Get the boost gauge in and have a look at what it does with the stock one back on.

So whats the story with JJR's "faulty product"? Im guessing its tough shit for the people that have bought them.

Edited by gotRICE?
something is definately wrong with yours. look at how slow it is to get to 11psi. it doesn't hit 11psi till nearly 6,000rpm!!! stock turbo should hit 11psi about 2,000rpm earlier than that and the boost curve should be no where near that slow. this is a sure sign of a wastegate problem (or in this case a dump pipe problem).

You mean "look at how bad it is at holding 8psi". :nyaanyaa:

hey guys im new to this turbo stuff but my 33 series2 is doing the same thing im quessing, i have rebuilt the turbo to ballbearing and hiflowed, it was all fine for about 2 weeks but then one night all of a sudden it would spike to about 15 pound or sometimes higher and start fuel cutting, i also have a safc 2 and i was going through it brior the problem, so i was quesing i through out the tune, i took it down to a work shop close to my work and they said its a wastegate problem, hitting the dump pipe, what you guys think?? any help would be great

cheers...

ok i think ive sorted out my front/dump pipe problems...well narrowed it down anyway:

options:

- CES split dump ($550-750) and BOM ($400) split dumps are apperently great but really expensive.

- Just Jap X-Force bellmouth dump $330

- Just Jap JJR bellmouth dump $199

- Just Jap HPI Dual front pipe and leave stock dump (or use a good brand one, but cant find any easily!!!hks,etc.) $349

- Just Jap X-Force High flow cat $175

- Just Jap Catco high flow cat $440

I have ruled out the JJR split dump as the wastegate flap hits on it...but not on the bellmouth design???

Basically my goal with the car is to get around the 200rwkw area. so id rather not spend heaps if not needed!

im leaning more towards getting a xforce cat and a jjr bellmouth..

one thing im unsure about is whether the xforce cat has a port for my cat sensor?i obviously need it in???so maybe the catco but its expensive!

Please HELP SAU,ha.

Dan.

the xforce cat has the hole for the cat sensor.

Alot of people will tell you to stay right away from these though. i used one in my old gtst with roughly 190rwkw and it was fine. just ordered another one for the new gtst.

if you're aiming for more than 200rwkw probably best to invest in a metal cat or something similar

I also used the JJR split dump on my old car and it seemed fine. about to use the same one on the new car aswell in the next day or so. so we'll see how that goes with the wastegate.

From what ive heard the JJR bellmouth doesnt have the same issues. so i might try that next if i have issues with the split dump

something is definately wrong with yours. look at how slow it is to get to 11psi. it doesn't hit 11psi till nearly 6,000rpm!!! stock turbo should hit 11psi about 2,000rpm earlier than that and the boost curve should be no where near that slow. this is a sure sign of a wastegate problem (or in this case a dump pipe problem).

well the lack of boost build up would not be the dump

it would be related to the actuator and probably not enough preload...

So whilst is a problem with the gate, its caused by something else unrelated to the dump (in this instance)

well the lack of boost build up would not be the dump

it would be related to the actuator and probably not enough preload...

So whilst is a problem with the gate, its caused by something else unrelated to the dump (in this instance)

Interesting! Will look into this. Any ideas?

Im going to do a gearbox oil/diff oil change on sat. So when its up on the hoist im going to get a mate to look at wether its worth modding the JJR split.

IE cut the split piece off, weld up the bottom hole, and make the dump more like the HKS dump.

He is 1337 at that sort of stuff, so if its viable and not costly, ill do that. If not, another mate is selling an HKS front pipe. Ill get that and just use the stock Dump.

+1 :D

you get what you pay for, jjr is known to be cheap and nasty. alot of people buy cheap aftermarket parts and wonder why their car is playing up. buy trusted/tested and well known products that have been proven to work and you wont run into trouble and end up spending more then you should, do it right the first time and save.

:(

I have a jjr one piece split dump with a vg30 rear and have never had a problem, good value i say.

one thing im unsure about is whether the xforce cat has a port for my cat sensor?i obviously need it in???so maybe the catco but its expensive!

Please HELP SAU,ha.

Dan.

the xforce cat does have a hole for the sensor, went to put mine on last weekend and could not get the sensor out of the old cat, have since found out that the sensor is only hooked up to a warning light, if it gets too hot, which usually means it has collapsed, then the light comes on, if i cant get another one by the weekend im just going to put a bolt in it.

if i was you i would do what other people have suggested and just get in there with a die grinder and remove the section that the wastegate hits against.

Interesting! Will look into this. Any ideas?

Ideas for what?

Your actuator might not be on properly... not much to it (you'll see when you have a look).

Boost not generating means the gate is coming OPEN too early, which means actuator most of the time... or a boost leak/restriction somewhere perhaps

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