Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

go a blitz nurspec droney plus!!

I got a Nur Spec R on the Rb25. Love the sound once she passes "normal driving conditions".

Annoyingly loud/droney on idle and when your trying to avoid attention.

In basic. Great when you want it. But 90% of the time its a pain in the butt and results in very nervous driving through town.

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

STRAIGHT PIPEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

nuff said

stay away from hks silent and trust exhausts unless your getting titanium.

they are the pussiest exhausts alive.

Edited by R34NRG
GO to exhaust shop

Ask for exhaust with no mufflers

loud

Pretty easy.

alot of shops actually refuse to make those sort of exhausts.

i rang up quite a few asking for straight pipe designs, they dont wanna make em.....=[

jerkit.gif

maybe its just me but they just sound weak.

Edited by R34NRG
why do you think they won't make a straight pipe exhaust?

proberly because they think ill be back a week later asking them to make another exhaust cuz i got defected for this.

but i dont understand how that is a negative. it means more work for them, which means more money.

and wat happened to cust is always right.

if i want straight pipe. just f*kn give it to me

STRAIGHT PIPEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

nuff said

stay away from hks silent and trust exhausts unless your getting titanium.

they are the pussiest exhausts alive.

I agree up to the "pussiest exhausts alive" bit.

I run the HKS silent hipower system, it's not an exhaust I would recommend if you want loud++. Good for me though, I wanted an exhaust that would handle a certain power level, and if it was reasonably quiet that was a plus too. I think it's just on the dB limit with my mods.

It does have an awesome note though, great sound, just not stupidly loud.

Why invite more attention from the coppers?! Up to you though.

proberly because they think ill be back a week later asking them to make another exhaust cuz i got defected for this.

but i dont understand how that is a negative. it means more work for them, which means more money.

and wat happened to cust is always right.

if i want straight pipe. just f*kn give it to me

dude if i was that guy at the muffler shop i would do it for the simple reason you'll be back to spend more money on getting legal again

lol, you firstly say to the guy at the muffler shop that you have a race car in the build and this car i have brought here today is the same chassis so you can use it to prefabricate a exhaust system for it.....

secondly, a full straight pipe system will probably cost you the same if not less then modifying your current one.

thirdly, when you do get defected, atleast you can go home and bolt the stocker back on.

considering the average price for mild steel 3 inch 1.5 ml wall is 10$ a meter plus 30$ a bend.

so your looking at 200 dollars max for a whole stright pipe system turbo back....(not including flanges. )

dude if i was that guy at the muffler shop i would do it for the simple reason you'll be back to spend more money on getting legal again

lol, you firstly say to the guy at the muffler shop that you have a race car in the build and this car i have brought here today is the same chassis so you can use it to prefabricate a exhaust system for it.....

secondly, a full straight pipe system will probably cost you the same if not less then modifying your current one.

thirdly, when you do get defected, atleast you can go home and bolt the stocker back on.

considering the average price for mild steel 3 inch 1.5 ml wall is 10$ a meter plus 30$ a bend.

so your looking at 200 dollars max for a whole stright pipe system turbo back....(not including flanges. )

i was sorta along those lines...... :ermm:

bbut he refused to make anything without a designator and a muffler.

and this wasnt just 1 shop.

I agree up to the "pussiest exhausts alive" bit.

I run the HKS silent hipower system, it's not an exhaust I would recommend if you want loud++. Good for me though, I wanted an exhaust that would handle a certain power level, and if it was reasonably quiet that was a plus too. I think it's just on the dB limit with my mods.

It does have an awesome note though, great sound, just not stupidly loud.

Why invite more attention from the coppers?! Up to you though.

Just to put this informtion out there, the HKS Silent high power catbacks for r33's are completly different to the r34 model, the r34 model has a large centre box type muffler, but the r33 model only has a tiny resonator (some people call it a hotdog) hence why the r33 model silent high power is alot louder than the r34 model.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...