Building An Rb26 For Response....

[XRATED]

  On 25/06/2014 at 1:40 AM, Wongy said:

ahh, thanks for the info, so did i just waste money buying NISMO ones then? o_0 but as people said before, air restriction shouldn't be an issue as in previous posts people have said that my OEM AFM should be fine even if i've changed turbos and the mods i have now o_0 so now i'm abit worried as to if there's something else wrong with my engine or it was just the tune =\

Just plug some rb20det afm's in... give you enough resolution for 400kwkw, same size as z32's and no wiring changes... AND they're cheap!!!

[Wongy]

Haha, never knew they would work xD will look into it,cheers

[Badgaz]

  On 26/06/2014 at 10:03 PM, Ben C34 said:

There's a big difference between tuning a car making 200rwkw and 400rwkw

Please do tell me....whats the big difference? the science is the same the variables and tolerances can differ....which is why most tuners won't tune to the limit.....the tuner might not be wasting his time ...but he could be wasting your time.

[Duncan]

off topic/baiting removed and users warned

[XKLABA]

  On 27/06/2014 at 2:56 AM, Duncan said:

off topic/baiting removed and users warned

Aww, I missed it again

Glad I wasn't part of it

This time

[Ben C34]

  On 27/06/2014 at 12:55 AM, Badgaz said:

Please do tell me....whats the big difference? the science is the same the variables and tolerances can differ....which is why most tuners won't tune to the limit.....the tuner might not be wasting his time ...but he could be wasting your time.

Ok gaz. I'll put some more info info into this post.

There are big differences between tuning a mild setup to a full on setup.

Of course the fundamental principles are the same.

For example, I'm sure you agree an engine making more power is under more stress. An engine making low power can sustain unexpected detonation pretty well. It's a different story when running high boost and big cylinder pressures. You said it yourself the variables and tolerances differ. That requires a different approach.

If somehow the worst happens and an engine is damaged, the difference between setups could be many thousands of dollars.

It's complete reasonable to expect a tuner will approach tuning the engines differently. Much like training for for a footy match the principles are the same, but you wouldn't expect an AFl level training regime for d grade players.

Im Sorry I couldn't take the time yesterday to write a a decent response.

[scotty nm35]

  On 27/06/2014 at 10:29 PM, Ben C34 said:

For example, I'm sure you agree an engine making more power is under more stress. An engine making low power can sustain unexpected detonation pretty well. It's a different story when running high boost and big cylinder pressures. You said it yourself the variables and tolerances differ. That requires a different approach.

^^ This. Great post Ben.

Cylinder pressure becomes exponentially higher with more timing and boost, especially on higher compression engines. But if the piston is coming up for the compression stroke and the fuel ignites early due to a hot valve, plug or other hot spot in the chamber, it will need to compress that explosion, cylinder pressure is huge at this point and is similar to hitting the piston with a sledge hammer. Something must give eventually, either the bearing, rod or piston will fail.

I have noticed you can buy spark plugs with pressure transducers in them, for checking cylinder pressures. I guess tuners don't need such tools, but I would be keen to give them a shot myself for interests sake.

[XGTRX]

Unless you know for certain the engine internals, condition and history and can trust the information, most tuners would advise a tune which is safe for a stock engine. Anything above that is at your own peril. Putting a scope in the chamber won't paint the whole picture of the build so it's still a can of worms.

[XGTRX]

As this guy found out with his so called forged motor which ended up having forged pistons with standard rods in an evo. Threw a rod and these are the pieces of the block that was picked up under the dyno.

[Mick_o]

Whoever "built" that 4G motor is an absolute tool. The Rods are the weak point in the 4G unfortunately.

[XGTRX]

Yep like tooth picks

[sneakey pete]

  On 26/06/2014 at 11:06 PM, Wongy said:

Haha, never knew they would work xD will look into it,cheers

Don't bother, use your nismo ones, they'll work great.

Someone on the previous page just got confused with what the "restriction" of stock AFM's are. It isn't the physical size, just the fact that the sensor itself maxes out at around the mark where you are. The nismo AFM's are the sensor of the Z32's in the body of the Rb26 ones, basically. Its a great combo as you don't need to mess around replacing any piping, they literally bolt right in.

Z32's, on the other hand, are a pain in the arse to fit.

[Wongy]

Thought so thanks pete just waiting till I get more potential parts before another tune

[Nismo 3.2ish]

Hi, I have a list of what is going to be done to my car, without changing anything can you tell me how you think the car will go. It is a DD , not built for track or drag , for response/torque.

It will have a PT6262 B and Poncams B , I can change these if I want. BUT for this build don't tell me to use Vcams or any other cams or different turbo/s, I know they can make a very big difference.

Can you guess(educated) how you think the car will go with the mods listed here.

You know that all of the machining etc will have to be done to do the build. Probably missed somethings , but?

RB30 Block

Nitto RB30 3.2 stroker kit/ I beam conrods

Rb30 Girdle

N1 water Pump

Gates timing belt kit idler and tensioner

ACL race series bearings main and big end

1/2 ARP inch head studs

ARP main stud kit

RB30 Girdle

Cam belt kit include idler and tensioner

+ machine work for ,engine block bore and hone. head studs/main studs, engine , hand file rings(blue print), tunnel bore

coolant system fittings

R&R engine

engine mount modifications for the RB30

Nitto full gasket kit with DBS type Nitto head gasket

Full race port head RB26

1MM over size supertech valves in/ex 820

Valve guides

spring/retainers RB26

Shims

service head

all of the bits plus machining that goes with the parts

PLUS

It has these parts already plus more

Haltech ECU Platinum Pro GTR

3.5 inch custom exhaust system

Walbro 460 LPH fuel pump, maybe have another installed

OS Giken Quad Clutch

Nismo 2-way LSD

9Lt sump conversion

Koyorad radiator

and supporting mods

Maybe getting a Quaife front diff, but?

It is a DD and I have no idea how this will end up and just wondering what you bloke think?

Pete

[Duncan]

well actually, I can't see why you would want a "full race port head rb26" if you are after response. I can't see oversize valves helping either.

Also, why does the block need a tunnel bore? in an rb the oil pump is mounted on the block and the crank runs through the middle. if you move the crank closer to the block by tunnel boring it will not be aligned in the oil pump properly....I always avoid tunnel boring an rb unless necessary

[Mick_o]

^^Because CRD?

[XGTRX]

What gearbox?

[Badgaz]

  On 27/06/2014 at 10:29 PM, Ben C34 said:

Ok gaz. I'll put some more info info into this post.

There are big differences between tuning a mild setup to a full on setup.

Of course the fundamental principles are the same.

For example, I'm sure you agree an engine making more power is under more stress. An engine making low power can sustain unexpected detonation pretty well. It's a different story when running high boost and big cylinder pressures. You said it yourself the variables and tolerances differ. That requires a different approach.

If somehow the worst happens and an engine is damaged, the difference between setups could be many thousands of dollars.

It's complete reasonable to expect a tuner will approach tuning the engines differently. Much like training for for a footy match the principles are the same, but you wouldn't expect an AFl level training regime for d grade players.

Im Sorry I couldn't take the time yesterday to write a a decent response

this is why i'm learning to tune engines, whilst i said the science or principals are the same, considerations need to be made to what you are tuning and how. e.g higher compression less advance.....the money bit is why i'll probably never tune professionally....its great fun learning and its just a hobby for me.... tuned a Autech n15 pulsar today.....yes it still goes.

[The real NISMO1]

  On 28/06/2014 at 11:32 AM, Mick_o said:

^^Because CRD?

Yes CRD, I am under the impression they are pretty good at what they do and what they have done with many cars and I am happy with what they have done for me

There have been a couple of comments but no one has said what it will be like, good or bad

[Nismo 3.2ish]

  On 28/06/2014 at 10:52 AM, Duncan said:

well actually, I can't see why you would want a "full race port head rb26" if you are after response. I can't see oversize valves helping either.

Also, why does the block need a tunnel bore? in an rb the oil pump is mounted on the block and the crank runs through the middle. if you move the crank closer to the block by tunnel boring it will not be aligned in the oil pump properly....I always avoid tunnel boring an rb unless necessary

Hi Duncan

The head work does not have to be done if I do not want it, I asked him to quote to see what else could be done as it will be the time to do it if I want it .

I will ask him about what you have all said

BUT if it was done as is, HOW would it be, would it drive well on the street ?