Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

time has come to do my timing belt, what i wanna know is it worth spending a bit more and getting a decent one (gates?) or is somthing like a dayco or equivelent ok if car is not making huge power? planning on fitting adj cam gear also if that makes any difference?

cheers all

brett

if you aren't running massive revs and heavier valve springs there's no real need for anything other than a standard replacement belt. but do it right and get a kit with pulleys and seals (crank and camshafts) as well - seals are cheap and quick to replace, and tensioner and/or idler pulleys are insurance - if a bearing fails you may as well have not replaced the belt...

if you aren't running massive revs and heavier valve springs there's no real need for anything other than a standard replacement belt. but do it right and get a kit with pulleys and seals (crank and camshafts) as well - seals are cheap and quick to replace, and tensioner and/or idler pulleys are insurance - if a bearing fails you may as well have not replaced the belt...

I agree, change everything else while your there if its never been done before

i personally would never use a gates belt again.

Cough up with your bad experience!

Apart from them being noisy buggers hah >_<

I'm not sure i would be comfortable with a OEM belt, huge valve seat pressures, steep ramps and 9k rpm though.

i personally would never use a gates belt again.

stick with a genuine nissan belt.

cant go wrong.

Yeah i'd like to hear this story aswell since i just bought a gates timing belt kit and fitting it this week >_<

i found that the fancy blue stuff on the outside of the belt starts delaminating and sticking to the brand new idler and tensioner. this then created a ruff surface for the belt to run on and inturn caused EXESSIVE amounts of noise.

put a nissan belt on and its been whispper quite ever since.

if you aren't running massive revs and heavier valve springs there's no real need for anything other than a standard replacement belt. but do it right and get a kit with pulleys and seals (crank and camshafts) as well - seals are cheap and quick to replace, and tensioner and/or idler pulleys are insurance - if a bearing fails you may as well have not replaced the belt...

sweet as, any recomendations on where to purchase all the bits and pieces for reasonable price? also going to do water pump at same time, good idea yeah?

thanks all

bretto

nothing wrong with the nissan ones that i can see. every gates belt I've used has been noisier than oem, even when tensioned carefully. dangerman4 I've never see the blue come off on the pulleys, and I get to check mine pretty regularly. are you sure nothing got onto the belt?

nothing wrong with the nissan ones that i can see. every gates belt I've used has been noisier than oem, even when tensioned carefully. dangerman4 I've never see the blue come off on the pulleys, and I get to check mine pretty regularly. are you sure nothing got onto the belt?

have uesd both

it was reasonably clean inside the timing cover so dont think ant thing got on it

and did not have any adverse effects

but i have seen the blue come off

post-32345-1211201202_thumb.jpg

i found that the fancy blue stuff on the outside of the belt starts delaminating and sticking to the brand new idler and tensioner. this then created a ruff surface for the belt to run on and inturn caused EXESSIVE amounts of noise.

put a nissan belt on and its been whispper quite ever since.

OEM Nissan FTW. Never ever had a problem with one.

But Aftermarket belts? (Blue ones in particular) well now thats a whole other story.....

Edited by RPMGTR
have uesd both

it was reasonably clean inside the timing cover so dont think ant thing got on it

and did not have any adverse effects

but i have seen the blue come off

a picture says 1000 words.....

thats the stuff i was talking about. noisy as all hell.

genuine nissan ftw

i found that the fancy blue stuff on the outside of the belt starts delaminating and sticking to the brand new idler and tensioner. this then created a ruff surface for the belt to run on and inturn caused EXESSIVE amounts of noise.

put a nissan belt on and its been whispper quite ever since.

what sort of noise was it?

mine has a bearing noise since i fitted a tomei belt only when idle drops down, sounds similar to a water pump noise but i changed that so thinking its the idler bearing!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...