Jump to content
SAU Community

Mark And Duncans R32 Build

Duncan

By Duncan,
in Motorsport Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

yeah it's easy to go nuts on the parts. i'm guilty of a lot of crap i probably don't need but is 'nice' to have. yep, I reckon anythnig under 400rwkw head studs aren't really a neccesity, cam cap studs, well as long as they are good or new, and are installed and torqued in the correct order then there is little chance of anything going wrong with them. the only times i've seen dramas with them is when they are being installed or removed improperly. i've also seen dramas with people installing head studs then having problems due to them not being installed correctly, with studs bottoming out etc. which is why I wouldn't go there unless there is going to be some really serious power and boost to come. :P over the years as prices on gear came down I guess people just were inclined to fit more serious stuff 'just in case'...

  • Replies 1.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Duncan
Duncan

wonder whatever happened to this car? This build will be old enough to vote by the time it's finished

Posted Images

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Tiger some wives have their own lappy's and surf in here while hubby cooks dinner.

haha actually some of us have wives who race in r35 GTRs while leaving their hubby at home/work paying the bills

tastarmacchallenge08-016.jpg

still trying to work out if its a good deal or not?

What's the plan for this weekend? I'm not home til Friday night so can't do any pickups, but the weekend is free. Saturday is better.

not looking good mate....will try to turn a spanner or 2 on sunday

What are you guys using for cam cap bearing studs/bolts?

standard of course. don't forget our budget (ie 0). standard head bolts, standard main bolts, standard cam caps. and all second hand not new. if the motor blows due to failure in one of them someone can tell us "I told you so". otherwise we can just keep saving money where possible :)

BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
Posted

wtf would you need cam cap studs? if you have a cam trying to push through the caps you have serious problems

haha actually some of us have wives who race in r35 GTRs while leaving their hubby at home/work paying the bills

tastarmacchallenge08-016.jpg

still trying to work out if its a good deal or not?

not looking good mate....will try to turn a spanner or 2 on sunday

standard of course. don't forget our budget (ie 0). standard head bolts, standard main bolts, standard cam caps. and all second hand not new. if the motor blows due to failure in one of them someone can tell us "I told you so". otherwise we can just keep saving money where possible :)

haw001 Rising Star

haw001

Posted
Posted

I stayed out of this one, but I'm glad that someone else has piped in on the need for cam caps studs. Sounds to me like the biggest waste of money that you can put in your engine.

Let's just have a look at the mechanics of the whole thing, the force on the caps comes from the cams and the valve springs only. Under compression the valves are closed and the load is absorbed completely through the valve seals and thus the head bolts/studs.

Springs are inconsequential, even if you have heavier springs, they are not exerting much more force than factory.

So you've left with rotational force of the cams, which is only a product of the weight of the cams and the rpm. I don't know what the weight differece between aftermarket cams and standard is, but it can't be much and even if you are over reving it's unlikely that you will be doing more than 10k rpm (stupidity to be doing this much anyway) so at most a 25% increase.

Take all this into account and you are nowhere near factory tolerance. Add to the fact that studs or bolts and screwed into an aluminum head and it's easy to see that the cam cap bolts are not the weakest part of the chain anyway.

But hey, if you want to spend $230 on bolts, I'll discount them to $229.95 and just head down to Bunnings for some high tensile bolts. I'll even engrave them with whatever Jap brand name you want so that it has the bling factor hidden under the cam covers. :ermm:

Angus Smart Grand Master

Angus Smart

Posted
Posted
nd $230 on bolts, I'll discount them to $229.95 and just head down to Bunnings for some high tensile bolts. I'll even engrave them with whatever Jap brand name you want so that it has the bling factor hidden under the cam covers. :ermm:

I'll take two sets :wave:

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted
i got them for $230 delivered

cams in this head are fairly sizable, 270/280deg 10.8lift

Good price, where from?

All the other bolts etc have been upgraded in this motor, so another couple of hundred wont hurt. Even if its not 100% needed, ill be straight above 400rwkw and i dont want it to let go again :ermm:

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
Good price, where from?

All the other bolts etc have been upgraded in this motor, so another couple of hundred wont hurt. Even if its not 100% needed, ill be straight above 400rwkw and i dont want it to let go again :D

I don't think it let go last time due to cam cap stud failure though.... :ermm:

still if you want it, buy it. but we did try to tell you! :wave:

shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted
Good price, where from?

All the other bolts etc have been upgraded in this motor, so another couple of hundred wont hurt. Even if its not 100% needed, ill be straight above 400rwkw and i dont want it to let go again :ermm:

dan from elite racing got them for me (erd.com.au)

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted
I don't think it let go last time due to cam cap stud failure though.... :ermm:

still if you want it, buy it. but we did try to tell you! :wave:

Nope, better pistons and new ECU for this one :D

This one will have a fair bit more power though

dan from elite racing got them for me (erd.com.au)

Cheers

giant Mentor

giant

Posted
Posted

haha actually some of us have wives who race in r35 GTRs while leaving their hubby at home/work paying the bills

tastarmacchallenge08-016.jpg

still trying to work out if its a good deal or not?

I am still having nightmares about those roads in the wet!! :ermm:

Boosted Zed Mentor

Boosted Zed

Posted
Posted

Re the rear cradle mods I can say it works, as we did to The Slot Car and I went to Wakey last Sat after completing both front and rear geometry changes, by raising pivot points, which raises roll centre, did a PB of 1 min 4.65 which was .8 sec faster than previous 1 min 5.4 when I had done rear pivot points and partial front, and best prior to that was 1 min 6.18 with a few other changes but the main one was raised roll centre. Car is a lot more predictable and flat in corners and does not slide or pitch like it used to, and much safer and easier to drive. Dunc and Mark you will love it.

See link for more.

Slot Car Mods.

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

How do you find the Tein RA vs the Bilsteins? Better? Worse?

Also, how much for a modified rear cradle for a GTSt/GTR, including fresh arms? I wouldnt mind re-co'ing the rear end in my car with all fresh arms, fresh wheel bearings etc. Also need to find a way to replace the rod end off the HICAS as mine are stuffed and Nissan want $400 odd for replacement ball joints. Its not so much the money, but surely there is a better, perhaps more durable way????

Boosted Zed Mentor

Boosted Zed

Posted
Posted
Roy, I've got a better option for removing hicas entirely. I should have it together tomorrow and Ill post some pictures.

Hey Roy, not cheap although if you grind your cradle bushes flush it raises everything about 25mm as mentioned as long as clearance to chassis is ok, which on R32 GTS-T is ? BTW I noticed no added vibration, although I expected to as locks the cradle to chassis with no bush. We also made a custom lighter Chrome Molly upper control arm in rear like R33/34 type have, as it does not need to go around the shock like Z32 and R32 have, which Nissan realised and lighter. The front upper are custom pivoting models which don't wear out or bend as they don't bind.

Re struts I have tried various spring rates, Tein RA, D2 ( waste of time) HKS, Tein Flex, Tein RE, Bilstein and now actually half and half as in Billy's in rear as abit softer than the Tein for Wakey. Hard to pic although I am now looking at what I think is the ultimate for the price range and that is Brillstein PSS9 adjustable shock version. They have huge range of adjustment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...