Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just had a desent mechanic from another city look at my car [GTR] as the launceston mechanics fail in all aspects regarding imports :O

compression in cylinders 2,3,4 & 6=150psi ;) cylinder 5 =125psi and cylinder 1 is an outstanding 25psi :)

so please correct me if i am wrong but i believe what i should now be doing is replacing my pistons.?

if this is correct ill be looking into getting arias pistons for it as the end goal for me is a 600hp track car.

any other recomendations on piston choice or direction from here.?

thanks guys ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222422-where-to-from-here-bad-compression/
Share on other sites

It will depend on why the compression is low as to whether new pistons will sole it. It is apparent that the engine needs to come apart, and in that case you may as well fit some new pistions. But simply fitting new pistons won't necessarily solve the compression problem. If you have broken rings, then new pistons wont fix it. If you have a crappy valve, new pistons won't fix it.

The next step is to get a leakdown test, to determine where the actual loss of compression is occuring.

Personally i'd go CP pistons and i think a lot of people would agree.

While your at it might aswell do the bearings (ACL race bearings or similar) and see what kind of state the rest of the engine is in. If it's all pulled apart might aswell do it all once now and save any hassels down the track.

just had a desent mechanic from another city look at my car [GTR] as the launceston mechanics fail in all aspects regarding imports :down:

compression in cylinders 2,3,4 & 6=150psi :D cylinder 5 =125psi and cylinder 1 is an outstanding 25psi :blink:

so please correct me if i am wrong but i believe what i should now be doing is replacing my pistons.?

if this is correct ill be looking into getting arias pistons for it as the end goal for me is a 600hp track car.

any other recomendations on piston choice or direction from here.?

thanks guys :)

If you are going to build a 600hp track car, you might as well take this opportunity to change the internals. Pistons, rods, rings, head gaskets, etc. Once the engine is out, you should be looking at doing all that and changing your turbos as well. For a track car, you'll need reliability.

Where to from here bub? To the land of SR XD hah j/k.

We really need a daily driver, with the R gunna be off road and the 200 off road also :S

May I suggest we look at pricing and sourcing all the bits as too put into it if your gunna pull her apart :( That way you wont have to take it off road again and reopen it up?

Edited by Mandi

As others have said so many variables as to why its low on one cylinder Mitch and without opening it up for a closer look its all just assumptions and guesses for now.

Sorry to hear things didn't work out with the tune, sometimes its just not meant to be hey :)

I agree with CP over arias pistons, also if your wanting that 600hp track weapon (little overkill but anyway :( ) then like suggested the motor is open so you may as well do it all in one hit:

Pistons

bearings

rings

head rods/bolts

metal head gasket

head work (most likely needed)

oil pump etc

your always going to be up for BIG $$$'s when it comes to a 26 rebuild so dont rush into anything, look at all your options and have a look at 26 results thread and you will see what others are making with minimal mods :)

Good luck with it

Ben

Everyone seems 2 like cp pistons what about Mahle Pistons there great teflon coated they look apart except for fitting requires a few mods to oil squirters but overall they are good couldnt say there better or worse than cps as ive never used them in my engines.

Not that this has anything to do with RB engines, but ive heard that Mahle were great back in the day on old iron blocks but on modern alloy blocks they dont seal as well or something along those lines? I know our blocks are iron so maybe they are fine, but on something like a SR which has a allot block SP pistons are pretty much the pick of the bunch and most people i know use them over Arias, Mahle etc.

Edited by PM-R33
Hmm yeah true, forumla 1 teams use them aswell i think. I swear i heard something about the use of Mahle pistons and something about them, ill find out later...

Yeah Ya right F1 use them. Some WRC cars as well as Nascar

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
×
×
  • Create New...