Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I want to buy a cf drive/prop shaft for my car from the current group buy,

Only my car is an R32 GTSt which will be running a R33 gearbox and normal rear end.

I figure since i need to mod the prop shaft i may as well get a new one. So does anyone know from their RB25 gearbox conversion whether the shaft length is any different? Shorter, longer? Or is it just different connections?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223212-rb25-gearbox-conversion-into-an-r32/
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...
Hmm. probably need to just wait and confirm length of tailshaft whenever the 20 box blows

Sorry to bring up old thread, Roy did you ever end up putting the 25 box in your r32? Just wondering how did you solve the speedo sender problem if you have? Been doing my head in figuring out where to get the bits from in melbourne, having a little trouble tracking down a Navara speedo sender (dont know what year Navara and being told no longer stocked by others), i am not too confident with cutting and shuting bits and pieces to come up with a reliable solution, would much prefer a drop in option even if it is a bit more. You reckon you could throw any leads my way?? Cheers

Rob

You can get away with just dropping a Navara sender straight in if you have taller diff gears..

I put 3.9s in mine and the 17T Navara sender resulted in my speedo reading 7kmh high, perfectly fine as far as I'm concerned :blink:

If you don't have any luck finding a part number, shoot me a PM, I think I've still got the box at home somewhere.

  • 2 weeks later...

Playing with the sender myself at the moment. Got a navara sender and chopped off the gear as I have a 4.3 diff.

Pulled the cog from the 33 box and now not sure what way to go about attaching the 33 cog to the navara shaft?

The 33 senders cog was just attached with a circlip and the navara cog was moulded on meaning the shaft from the navara sender is full circle whereas the shaft from the 33 sender was alkf moon on the end.

So...I'm left with a cog thats half moon through the centre that needs to be attached to a full circle shaft. The cogs from the 33 are no longer available so dont want to muck it up. How have other people gone about it? My best thought was to get a dremel and small grinding stone and slowly chop it away?

Playing with the sender myself at the moment. Got a navara sender and chopped off the gear as I have a 4.3 diff.

Pulled the cog from the 33 box and now not sure what way to go about attaching the 33 cog to the navara shaft?

The 33 senders cog was just attached with a circlip and the navara cog was moulded on meaning the shaft from the navara sender is full circle whereas the shaft from the 33 sender was alkf moon on the end.

So...I'm left with a cog thats half moon through the centre that needs to be attached to a full circle shaft. The cogs from the 33 are no longer available so dont want to muck it up. How have other people gone about it? My best thought was to get a dremel and small grinding stone and slowly chop it away?

I have posted the solution to this problem so many times I've lost count.

Some others here have slowly caught on.

If you can't be bothered searching get a sharp round file and carefully make the half moon in the 33 cog perfectly round.

It will be a nice press fit onto the navara splined shaft and shouldn't need glue.

Don't forget to recut the location slot on the navara speedo drive 180 degrees opposite the original slot or it will only last a short while.

Touche mate.

I ended up searching and found the answers...many times over lol. I think I may go with grinding down the navara shaft though. Coz if I stuff up I can get another one. I also found that the R32 GTS4 has a 21 tooth cog. Cant find out which way the teeth are cut though....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When sanding across a convex panel, you need to sand, as much as possible, at right angles to the curve. If the panel is compound convex curved (ie curved in both directions) then you are SOL and have to use "craftsmanship" to get it right.
    • Today in Skyline arts and crafts!! I’ve made some progress.    had to put extra notes in there so I don’t stuff it up 😂
    • This sounds like me. And then why I leave shit that I had previously hobbled together broken. Lately I've changed strategies to "If I don't want to justify the money on decent stuff, I'm not going to justify hobbling it together". I'm still for DIY, but DIY it properly is more my thing. However, I am terrible on not setting up backups still... Which reminds me, I need to go backup some of my work VM machines... Oh, it's also why I've become a lover of building things into Docker Containers... Then I just need a machine that can run docker, and bam, that specific system is up and running, on the specific versions of everything I need for it to run (In the event a change in required software version breaks something else). Also, these days, my steep learning curves are spent with work related stuff, and on very varied projects, that my want to do other random projects like build a dashboard for my own car has dwindled away to "I just want the car running", which is my current PITA, as I'm getting the Landcruiser usable again, and it has just been non-stop the past 6 to 8 weeks of buying parts, and working on it. Oh, and tools that are meant to be fit for purpose... And they break, because 25 year old 4WD decides it's stronger... But by the time I have it ready to roll back out the drive way, nearly all the stuff in it will have been touched and serviced, so the damn thing better give me NO FREAKING ISSUES, for at least the next 50,000KMs! Just redone whole front of the motor, and resealed the up top stuff, replaced a bunch of things getting perished, new timing belt done, water pump, lower timing cover (Toyota diesel engine runs timing GEARS for the bottom half the motor, and a timing belt from halfway up to the top), new harmonic balancer, fix up the alternator, new thermostat, full swivel hub rebuild, new bearings and seals front and back, steering box rebuild, new battery, and today, it turns out a rear shock has let go, so four new shocks are about to go on order, and that will leave me with after the next run of work, to see if I need to order just a brake caliper re-seal, or if I'll need new pistons in them too. Oh, and I'll finish welding in the new floor sheet metal shortly too. Presently I just want it finished already... But once all the above is done, I still need to fully service diffs, gearbox, transfer, and motor. Then flush and bleed the clutch, and flush and bleed the brakes. But enough about our waffle, back to Duncan's heat problems... I think for Duncan he just gets a thermoswitch, and a manual switch to run some water misters. Thermo so it's only on above certain temps, and the manual switch so it can be turned off even if it is above certain temperatures. IE, switch on for "I'm now on track", then it doesn't need any "smart" computers that might try and do things wrong. And switch the thing off completely on the cool down lap, so when he stops in pits, there's not even a possibility of it dripping any water out to get him in trouble.
    • So I ran into the same problem. I got stuck in the cycle of again of putting putty sanding it, putting putty sanding it, because of a low spot. And notice my block is not completely flat with the panel, even though it's a long block. My panel is slightly curved. Is this an issue? Do I need something that matches the door perfectly, or no?    I do have the smaller flexible block that covers the width of the repair just not the length, I was experimenting with it again to but seems to be the same issue
×
×
  • Create New...