Jump to content
SAU Community

Sandown Requirements?

HotPlates

By HotPlates,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

shepo Experienced

shepo

Posted
Posted

well we were just out there last week.

but you need at least your CAMS level 2S licence, fire extinguisher (mounted correctly), blue triangle on the bonnet to show where the battery is located. you also need to be a member of a car club. have a helmet (obviously) need to wear long sleves (preferably cotton) you need to make sure your bonnet has a secondary latch (if its got a standard bonnet it SHOULD pass)

also it pays to go over your car before you get there to make sure it will pass scruteneering, ie. battery is secured, tyres are good etc...

thats about it, im sure if i have missed anything i will be corrected...

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Certain times of the year - yes, only when track days are on

License - yes, CAMS L2S

Club - yes, to get the CAMS licence, must be part of a club affiliated

Basically join SAU-Vic, get CAMS, go racing.

Cheapest option in Vic :)

Belsil80 Mentor

Belsil80

Posted
Posted

Thanks ferni:

Hey mate.

First of all you need to be a member of a CAMS affiliated club, such as SAU Vic. You can join for $70 first year and $50/y after that. See this thread for info on joining. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sa...ber-t60590.html

You will also need to get your cams L2S License - think it's about $95/year (from memory last time i renewed). See here for the form: http://cams.com.au/downloads/paperforms/20...Application.pdf

Once you have these 2 things you can go to any club level track day you want. Plenty are run by different clubs. WRX Club, HSV Club, PIARC Club, MG Club etc...

We (SAU Vic) run our track championship at WRX days. See this link for more info: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/20...-C-t203667.html

Next SAU day is on 1st June at Sandown. These days cost around $150 give or take.

As for what has to be done to your car, not a whole lot. You will need a fire extinguisher mounted in cabin (About $20 from kmart, autobarn, etc...) - I mount mine behind the passenger seat under where the legs of a rear passenger would sit. You also need pants, long sleeves and covered shoes. And of course a Helmet (ADR approved).

Also make sure your car is in good condition - ie no oil leaks, working brake lights, all simple stuff that you should have sorted on your car just to drive it on the street :)

See this link for more info about other events SAU Vic runs for its members:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/20...en-t198251.html

If you want to have a look at some Club lap records and past motorsport championship results. Check these links:

http://www.sauvic.com.au/lap_records

http://www.sauvic.com.au/motorsport_championship

Hope this helps :(

MOTORSPORT EVENTS is good to find out what is going on in Vic.

Kaz200 Grand Master

Kaz200

Posted
Posted

Actually that first link is out of date now - how to join SAU VIC:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sk...or-t220207.html

Basically if you have any queries on joining SAU VIC you can send an email to [email protected] or send me a PM.

If you have any other motorsport specific queries, you are better off sending a PM to Ferni, Belsil80 or Scotsman (our motorsport director) or send an email to [email protected]

Cheers!! :)

~Kaz

Snowman Grand Master

Snowman

Posted
Posted

The big difference is however is tht a club track day is about half the price of a training day so if you plan on going to the track more than once it quickly pays for itself to go the club route. If it is just a once off fun thing then the training days are probably the better option.

Omurru Veteran

Omurru

Posted
Posted

^^^ Both true, although the good thing I find about the training days is you get 10 times more track time and by the end of the day there aren't that many people out there so you can go as fast as you like :wub:

*Edit: Although what I call fast and what you two call fast is two different things :/*

ferni Grand Master

ferni

Posted
Posted
^^^ Both true, although the good thing I find about the training days is you get 10 times more track time and by the end of the day there aren't that many people out there so you can go as fast as you like :)

*Edit: Although what I call fast and what you two call fast is two different things :D*

That's a good point. But the other side of it, is doing 20min sessions flat out isn't usually the best for the car, plus everything starts overheating - brakes, tyres, engine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • GTSBoy
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
×
×
  • Create New...