Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You dont need more power, youve already pointed that out yourself - STIs are doing times youd like to run with less power.

So how do they do it? By putting it to the ground better than you.

Your bilstein suspension might be decent suspension, but doesnt mean that its good for drag racing.

Go get sticky tyres and set your suspension up for drag racing specifically, and theres no reason you cant run respectable times.

Also - practice. How many times have you actually run down the quarter?

Because I bet people running 11s with mildly worked STIs certainly arent first timers...

  • Replies 96
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

A person on this forum (he had an STi with a Power FC and a turbo back exhaust, NOTHING else) and he apparently did 12.5 seconds qtr mile, at standard boost! My car can't even do that now I don't think??

WIth the boost wound up on the STi He surely would'e broken into the high 11's, no?

the turbo of STI is quite small, it is smaller than TD05-16G(EVO's Turbo) just a little bigger than WRX TD04L (STI IHI RHF5 just quick spool than it)

according to my expensive GC8 STI to do 12.5 (is his STI MY00 STI? or MY01+?)

coz the turbo of STI at standard boost(14psi) can reach 80%+ efficiency of the total turbo output (IHI RHF5 series character)

MY00 GC8 STI maximum boost can do 18-19psi evenif he tuned the boost up to 19psi, it wont gain more than 20kw at wheel

you will find GC8 STI still can not run into tail 11's probably still 12.3-12.5 after boost up to 19psi

it will f**k up the turbo quicker (IHI RHF5 VF2x or VF3x is not good for high boost excludes VF22 which can up to 22psi)

a GC8 want to run into tail 11's still need to upgrade turbo(IHI RHF5 VF22@19psi) or keep to take off the interiors

when you upgrade to VF22 but still can not run 21psi coz engine will blown quicker

so it will need to make EJ207 bottom forged than it is possible to run VF22@22psi ....

then you will find fuel system is not enough to support so it need to upgrade injectors and fuel pump

for next moment, you will find high power output to f**k the gearbox up .... damn

finally a lots problem surround GC8 STI evenif GDB STI ... it costs no cheap to modify a quick STI nearly to buy a GTR

the all of GTR are designed to endure high power output, engine, gearbox, fuel system, intakes ... exclude factory turbos :P

Edited by shawn.szutu
You dont need more power, youve already pointed that out yourself - STIs are doing times youd like to run with less power.

So how do they do it? By putting it to the ground better than you.

Your bilstein suspension might be decent suspension, but doesnt mean that its good for drag racing.

Go get sticky tyres and set your suspension up for drag racing specifically, and theres no reason you cant run respectable times.

Also - practice. How many times have you actually run down the quarter?

Because I bet people running 11s with mildly worked STIs certainly arent first timers...

You're right, if I set up my suspension for drag, and get some thicker & sticky tyres, I should be able to do low 12's.

ONly problem is, my car is already high at the back, and when it squats down from the torque, there is alot of negative camber and wheel spins like crazy. FOr this reason I purchased a camber kit (whiteline) to throw in some more positive camber.

should I get coil overs to lower the car more so the car doesn't have that much sqaut and then put the camber in? More of the tyre will be on the road that way?

Edited by Turbz RB-25

Just dial in 1/2 deg positive camber on the rear, that will combet the squat. Rex'x may run fairly good 1/4 times, but i cant see an 11. However unless you launch them with big revs and drivetrain abuse, they really feel slow, the in gear acceleration is where you would have him, just dont expect to see him off the line. Why not try a friendly rolling start run on a deserted(private) freeway, say 40-140km/h ill bet you win.

sorry for late response to this thread. but here is an interesting video on youtube.

and on shitty tyres. 340kw. overtaking evo's on the straight and keeping up on the corners.

i have also seen a track race video on youtube in japan with 6 cars. 5 of them GTR one of them GTS-t all of them heavily modified and the GTS-t came second.

so really. buy some Toyo RA-1 semi slick street legal track tyres. they hook up in first gear even with over 300kw as long as you don't force it too hard. pineapples, coilovers etc etc. and practice launching. i reckon those guys with those STis are full of shiet. evidence above speaks for itself.

and you are from canberra. consider BD4s in sydney they have done this skyline

http://autospeed.com/cms/A_2923/article.html

without spending big $$$ on forged internals. don't listen to people in these forums if they say its not possible to make over 300kw without redoing bottom end. BD4s would know they do this shiit for a living.

just a though for your intention of reaching big power figures at a lower cost. i really think however you need to sort out your tyre setup. those Toyo RA-1s are 500 bucks a pop and well worth it from what iv read. read some reviews online people using them for autocross and other events. getting a good 10000 kilomotres on them hard driving too. they heat up real fast super sticky but last much much longer than people think for a semi slick street legal tyre.

and you are from canberra. consider BD4s in sydney they have done this skyline

http://autospeed.com/cms/A_2923/article.html

without spending big $$$ on forged internals. don't listen to people in these forums if they say its not possible to make over 300kw without redoing bottom end. BD4s would know they do this shiit for a living.

just a though for your intention of reaching big power figures at a lower cost. i really think however you need to sort out your tyre setup. those Toyo RA-1s are 500 bucks a pop and well worth it from what iv read. read some reviews online people using them for autocross and other events. getting a good 10000 kilomotres on them hard driving too. they heat up real fast super sticky but last much much longer than people think for a semi slick street legal tyre.

Where can I get these TOYO tyres from, and will they fit on my 17 X 7.5 inch wheels?

Cheers

  • 1 year later...
anyone have any opinions on the FALKEN RT615 tyres? Thery are ncie semi slick, 950 for all 4!

talk about round and round information! as stated any well setup skyline gts can match a 4 wheel drive car! if you can drive! i have a 304rwkw gts and constantly run high 11ins with crapy nangkang 265/30/18 they hook up great and its always a treat to watch jaw drop when racing rex and gtrs. tien coil overs camber adjustment kit and practise, and you keep comparing a rear wheel drive to all wheel drive. always going to be a land slide win i must admit. but great fun to caurse an upset! and do you know how many people out there make huge claims and are totally full of it. and there might be truth to claims of low horse power wrx doing fast times but only a few runs then SNAP! stuff breaks. constant times everytime makes for a fast car. plus rwd you can have fun here and there awd tends to have to be doing crazy stuff to slide around.

Old thread........but now that your awake,

Not putting down 4wd systems, their attributes are real and well known. But what a lot of people forget is that there are many many performance cars out there that are still rear wheel drive and doing very well at it, so I wouldn't be selling and swapping on a whim. It all depends on what you want out of a vehicle and what suits your aims.

with the amount of power you have, you should be able to destory him easily

i would be confident in beating at 190awkw wrx in my 190rwkw GTST

its all about how you drive and getting the power down. get good tyres, practice launching, run good pressure and get a good tune / decent setup

i dont know what gearing is in the WRX but youll find 4.11's in the GTST make it accelerate pretty qiuckly, which is why a mild GTST can beat most cars on the street

11s on a lightly modded STI what a crock!

Mate you will absolutely smash him with your 270rwkw, tell him anyplace anytime.

To be honest I would be more worried about mph not the 1/4 mile time. 1/4 mile times vary soo much depending on your 60'. If thats your thing then fine. But a car with perfect suspension and an excellent launch with moderate power wont be very exciting to drive. Go the high power car with reasonable launch and lots of fun hehe

With 270 at the bags, you should easily see 11s with a set of slicks. Before going the new car/full rebuild/expensive path, go grab yourself a brand new set of MT slicks and see how you go. You would be spinning the wheels the whole strip on street tyres. If you can get it to hook up well you'll see an 11 and a low 11 won't be far away.

And the WRX owners claiming 11s with 190kW are talking out there asses. They are probably more like 230-250 and have spent a shit load more than they are letting on. That is if they are making that power properly.

I think you'd be in for one hell of a reality check at the dragstrip!

The GSTS would come back hard at 3/4 track, but not likely to overcome the AWD advantage off the line.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...