Jump to content
SAU Community

My Turbo Is Empty!

ztuned

By ztuned,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

ztuned Mentor

ztuned

Posted
Posted (edited)

hey guys,

so i blew my turbo a bout a month ago, forced to drive the car for about 200k''s in that period

i finally had time to take the turbo off

and this is what i found

front

DSC00527.jpg

and the shaft not attached lol

DSC00525.jpg

rear

DSC00526.jpg

and i took my cat off to expect the exhaust wheel bits and peices, but all i found was these black peices of crap, (the bolt and grass in the pic wasnt in the cat)

DSC00529.jpg

so where has the exhaust wheel and the blades gone? ive driven my car for about 200k's and runs fine, so ive been told that my engine should be fine and if that it there was a problem the engine would have popped by now lol

is the black peices of crap the melted exhaust wheel?

i just hope the the exhaust wheel blades havent ended in my engine lol

so what do u guys think?

cheers

Edited by ztuned
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224234-my-turbo-is-empty/
Share on other sites
rb26s13 Mentor

rb26s13

Posted
Posted

well considering your compressor wheel has shit itself aswell i'd be throwing your intercooler out as it'll more than likely be cheaper to replace it than cut the end tanks off and get it cleaned out as best it can be with the chance there could still be some bits n pieces wedged in there

all your intercooler piping will need to be cleaned extremely well

you'd be very lucky to have not sucked any of that compressor wheel into the motor itself.. i'd be very suprised if it hasnt damaged the motor i'd still be pulling it down regardless to clean everything and check there isnt any major damage done already.

perhaps your exhaust wheel is wedged into your cat convertor?

ztuned Mentor

ztuned

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

it was also suggested that the exhaust wheel may have came out of the end of the exhaust, but looking at the cat there seems to be 2 'nets' or filter thing,

there's no way that objects as larger as the exhaust wheel blades could pass through it :)

Edited by ztuned
swanny180 Proficient

swanny180

Posted
Posted

Question, why did you keep driving it after it blew?

Unfortunately it may have turned into (depending on if/how much compressor wheel has been ingested) a far more expensive exercise than the simple $300 or $400 turbo replacement you already need to do...

+1 for start praying!!

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

This is what i would do.

Take the cooler out and pipes.

replace cooler.

Take the inlet manifold off and split the plenum and clean it.

Compression test the engine and leak down test. If there is no signs of problems with the compression / leakdown test then you should be right as long as ALL cooler pipes are clean and the plenum and runners etc etc is all 100% clean.

Good luck with it matey

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • MBS206
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Tein Circuit Master- rebuild worth it?

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Another vote for installing them and see how you go.  I mean, you already own them, why would you not fit them? 
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Duncan
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Duncan · Posted

      Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
×
×
  • Create New...