Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the oil pressure gauge in my 1994 r33 gtst droped to below one yesterday, no warning light came on however. the gauge now varies in oil pressure depending (from what i can gather) on revs. for exaple when i first noticed the oil pressure i was at a set of traffic lights and i only drove it far enough to pull over, as i drove off oil pressure picked up tp about 2/3 and droped again once i took my foot off to about 1 and jus above 0 when i pulled over. in 4th doin about 90kms/h the gauge will read 4ish and then put it in 5th or take my foot off and it slowly drops. oil level is fine as this was the first thing i checked. im going to check the sender unit this weekend and i dont plan on driving the car until this is sorted. please if you have any ideas or know of any common problems with oil pressure with the r33 let me know any help would be much apreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224421-low-oil-pressure/
Share on other sites

the oil pressure gauge in my 1994 r33 gtst droped to below one yesterday, no warning light came on however. the gauge now varies in oil pressure depending (from what i can gather) on revs. for exaple when i first noticed the oil pressure i was at a set of traffic lights and i only drove it far enough to pull over, as i drove off oil pressure picked up tp about 2/3 and droped again once i took my foot off to about 1 and jus above 0 when i pulled over. in 4th doin about 90kms/h the gauge will read 4ish and then put it in 5th or take my foot off and it slowly drops. oil level is fine as this was the first thing i checked. im going to check the sender unit this weekend and i dont plan on driving the car until this is sorted. please if you have any ideas or know of any common problems with oil pressure with the r33 let me know any help would be much apreciated.

its normal for oil pressure to rise with the revs.

what oil pressure is it running at idle?

^^^^^ +1

Yep don't rely on standard... well known for faulty readings....

for example... my standard one does not exceed 4 no matter what the conditions... when its hot, at idle it reads slightly off 0!

My blitz mechanical one reads between 6 and 6.5 bar on cold start (idling) .... once warm and driven for a while (ie oil is hot as) idle is 1.5 bar..... I can see the gauge move for everything... ie when the pressure relief valve opens...

its normal for oil pressure to rise with the revs.

what oil pressure is it running at idle?

it sit very close to zero once its warm at idle. i plan to keep it off the road this week until i sevice it the weekend and check the oil pressure with another gauge. that should narrow it down.

sorry for taking so long to reply, have been out of internet access. went and bought a mechanical gauge just to use to try and help work out where the problem was. according to the gauge i have perfect oil pressure and increases perfectly with revs. and on that note im currently in the process of purchasing a good quality aftermarket gauge. thanks heaps for your help.

my sender unit was below the oil filter and to the left a bit. theres a rubber boot covering the plug from it and it just unscrewes out of the block (i managed to get a spanner onto it when i was undoing it, fairly sure it was a 17mm). does anyone know if you can purchase aftermarket sender units? from what ive heard from people who replaced them with the standard one again. find that they play up again anyway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • I assume clearances were all a-okay?
×
×
  • Create New...