Jump to content
SAU Community

The Goods On Oils

PHaT MR30

By PHaT MR30,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

QRI05E Mentor

QRI05E

Posted
Posted (edited)

Well i got it for a TOO good price cause its my mates shop hehe... and the RRP is $89 from Autobarn... i saw them for $75 at Peps auto... im sure any Autobarn will price match... call around... still a 100 times better then any Mobil, Castrol and Valvoline! RP are real good... one of the best!

Mobil 1 GOLD 0W40 ($80) isnt too bad but is a group IV.... where RP is group V ($75) :O

Cheers

Edited by QRI05E
  • Replies 3.3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

Any brand will work fine, some just last longer than others. I still believe you are better off using a cheaper ($50) oil and changing it every 5k rather than spending twice that and trying to strin

Kinks
Kinks

Royal Purple 10W-50, warm it between your hands for a few seconds then apply it to the area at the base of your shaft between your balls ..about as valid as any other opinion in this thread

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

F1 still use monograde 10 weight oils, hence the need to get the engine warm before starting it. Nothing stone age about it...

Posted Images

Paradizzle Grand Master

Paradizzle

Posted
Posted
Well i got it for a TOO good price cause its my mates shop hehe... and the RRP is $89 from Autobarn... i saw them for $75 at Peps auto... im sure any Autobarn will price match... call around... still a 100 times better then any Mobil, Castrol and Valvoline! RP are real good... one of the best!

Mobil 1 GOLD 0W40 ($80) isnt too bad but is a group IV.... where RP is group V ($75) >_<

Cheers

I think i previously read something about someone recomending the RP and changing the oil every 10,000kms, or should it still be done every 5k?

QRI05E Mentor

QRI05E

Posted
Posted (edited)

I personally wouldn't... even though they recommend it... oil would be oxidized/burnt (black) by 5000 - 6000kms... especially in a hard driven turbo charged engine... I'll be changing my oil every 5000kms with Royal Purple... 10W40

If it seems bit pricey then just get any decent synthetic oil such as Pennzoil or Pernrite SIN and change every 5000kms or 3 months... I personally think its more important to service your car regularly with decent oil rather then using the best oil and leaving it for 10,000kms... but for me, the price difference wasnt that much between the Castrol or Mobil 1 and the RP...

Considering that any work shop will charge between $99 - $150 for a service (oil/filter) and probably use some cheap dino oil... i would rather spend $75 - $80 on the best synthetic oil (Royal Purple) and $5 for a cooper oil filter and bout 15min of DIY in the garage >_<

Cheers

Edited by QRI05E
Busky2k Veteran

Busky2k

Posted
Posted (edited)

Oil being black doesnt mean its burnt or oxidised at all. Some oils naturally turn dark with heat. Others go dark because of soot loading. If it truely is oxidised by 5,000km then you have a crappy oil to begin with.

I believe RP is not entirely Group V, but a mix of Group I, IV & V. Group V doesnt mean anything anyway, its a classification for anything that doesn't fit into the other categories. You could class honey as Group V if you want.

still a 100 times better then any Mobil, Castrol and Valvoline! RP are real good... one of the best!

Who said its 100x better? The salesman who sold you the stuff? Wheres your evidence? lol >_<

Edited by Busky2k
QRI05E Mentor

QRI05E

Posted
Posted (edited)

not the salesman... but every one i have asked... every performance mechanic and tuner have recommended RP over Mobil 1 and other high end oils... even the wholesale rep who i spoke to today that sells Redline, RP and Motul to Autobarn and Repco... recommended the RP over the other oils he sells...

If you read back, even i was confused to which oil to buy... and i was about to get Mobil 1... but then after a few phone calls and few emails.. i have been advised differently...

Please done get me wrong... Mobil 1 Gold is a great oil but for its price... you better get RP which is race bread and proven... as i said before... its horses for courses... what works for one engine may not work for another...

Cheers

Edited by QRI05E
Trex101 Collaborator

Trex101

Posted
Posted
Ok guys, I emailed Royal Purple, regarding the grade/quality/group of their oils and they stated that they use a group V base and the rest is their Synerlec technology which has proven itself over and over again... even my mate's auto shop oil supplier who sells Motul, Red Line and RP said that RP was the best oil he has ever sold and used on his R33 GTR ~290aw/kw! Horses for courses I guess...

Today i picked up a 5L jug of Royal Purple 10W40 from Autobarn along with a Cooper oil filter... and hopfully ill get a chance this week to change the oil and will post the results...

Cheers,

Sarkis

No, RP is mostly group IV couple with mineral additives carrier fluid (possibly group I for total additives solubility). Alot of ppl in BITOG has criticize RP for it's lack of shear stability but UOA results always prove very well under high load and stress situation.

It's good oil but not 100x better than the rest i tell you.

Paradizzle Grand Master

Paradizzle

Posted
Posted

Well after reading the last few pages i was going to go for the RP, to much of a hassle getting any by Monday as the stockists are out of the way big time. So i may settle for Mobil 1, dont know what weight to get though!!

Busky2k Veteran

Busky2k

Posted
Posted

Well at the *end of the day* we are splitting hairs because our engines would happily run on pretty much any synthetic oil with no problems. I am not doubting that RP is a good oil, I'd give it a go but there is alot of hype with oils unfortunately.

Paradizzle, I'd give the 10W30 in the M1 a go if you can find it. Or the 0W40, whatever is cheaper/easier.

QRI05E Mentor

QRI05E

Posted
Posted

I totaly agree Busky! as long as you run a decent synthetic oil with regular change (5000kms or every 3 months) your engine will love you for it!

I will post up my experiance with RP when i get a chance to change my oil hopfully this week..

Cheers

hosay Rookie

hosay

Posted
Posted
During my break at uni today I managed to take a quick trip down to Peps and Super Cheap... This is what I found (all are in 5L jugs):

Mobil 1 5W50 - $69

Mobil 1 GOLD 10W30 - $79

Royal Purple 10W40 (at Peps) - $75

Royal Purple 5W30 (at Peps) - $72

Castrol EDGE 0W40 - $70

Castrol EDGE 5W30 - $49

Valvoline SynPower 5W40 - $45

Wouldn't the choice go to Royal Purple for the high range? and the Valvoline Synpower for the low range?

What you think guys? or am i going around in circles chasing my tail? :D lol

I wouldn't mind spending $75 for the Royal Purple, but considering i change my Oil/Filter every 5000kms I think the Valvoline or Castrol for $45 - $50 would be a good choice...

Cheers,

Sarkis

QRI05E Mentor

QRI05E

Posted
Posted

Hi Hosay, unfortunately there are no Pep's outlets in melb... NSW only... you can buy Royal Purple from the following suppliers in melb:

Eagle Auto Spares

92 South Gippsland Hwy

DANDENONG

03 9793 5544

Sanmateo Performance Systems

19-21 Ninth Street

MILDURA

03 5023 7559

Regards,

Sarkis

msnismo Grand Master

msnismo

Posted
Posted

Read through this thread and have seen conflicting stories - I just did my first oil change and apparantly the car was previously running Mobil 1 and was as quiet as a baby... did an oil change with 10w40 full synthetic (Nulon) and now my lifters are noisy! They were noisy straight away after it came off fast idle.

Should I go back to Mobil 1 and try 15w50? or perhaps this oil is shite and maybe try another 10w40?

Car has done 100,000 - R33 94 - also has an oil cooler and a smaller filter than normal (442).

Cheers,

Anna

Trex101 Collaborator

Trex101

Posted
Posted
Read through this thread and have seen conflicting stories - I just did my first oil change and apparantly the car was previously running Mobil 1 and was as quiet as a baby... did an oil change with 10w40 full synthetic (Nulon) and now my lifters are noisy! They were noisy straight away after it came off fast idle.

Should I go back to Mobil 1 and try 15w50? or perhaps this oil is shite and maybe try another 10w40?

Car has done 100,000 - R33 94 - also has an oil cooler and a smaller filter than normal (442).

Cheers,

Anna

Try the Mobil 1 again but 15w50 imo is maybe too thick. Try the M1 0w40, good stuffs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • Duncan
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By Duncan · Posted

      The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • MBS206
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...