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Yes have read the first 20 pages or so, then gave up.

1. I did not read anywhere in regards to oil pressure and what it should be.

2. Most posts seem to be from members who may not have alot of knowledge/experience in regards to which is the best oil for a particular car/situation.

It's cool, do not worry.

1. ~2 kg/cm3 at idle ~4 kg/cm3 at 3000rpm+

2. Its been covered. From a technical point of view the ester based oils are superior. Then group IV based oils and then group III based oils.

If you want to know what brands etc.. Then You can't go wrong with motul, redline, royal purple and Mobil as they market their products correctly. The others such as shell, castrol etc state their group iii oils are synthetic when they really are just ripping you off.

hey guys i went out yesterday and bought mobile 1 10w-30 oil, it seemed quite thin and watery, i havent opened it yet just seems to be looking through bottle, i have a rb25det with 115k what u think

  • 2 weeks later...

I own an R32 gtr and was told from my tuner Paul Fischer who used to work for ADVAN that they used to run 20-60 full synthetic on there big horse power RB26DETT rebuilds for customers. They were the only guys doing so at the time and never spun bearings as the RBs like to do.

I went to Just Jap and got talking with the owner of the joint and asked him about all the oil he sells in the display and he to said that his mechanic is starting to use the 20-60w full Motul synthetic, which they also use in there Targa Tasmania cars.

Only thing is that to do an oil and filter change costs around $145 dollars because it costs $44 per 2litres, so Paul told me to try the Castrol 10-60w full synthetic which i have and so far oil pressure is great and holding well even when driven hard. My Oil pressure gauge on cold idle holds at slightly over the 4cm2 and when hot and driven hard at idle drops to slightly under the 4cm2. I do have also a N1 oil pump though but the pressure is great and safe.

The Castrol cost $65 for 5Lt and genuine oil filter $9.90 from Nismo in Sydney, cheaper yeah but still quality protection and i do this every 3500klms, i drive my car hard and look after it even harder, im fussy but its worth it or maybe because i have a new full forged bottom end with new turbos might be a good enough reason to take of her haha.

Cheers,

Dave.

Edited by GTR 400
Is the oil pressure gauge on the dash accurate in an R32? If so, what are the nominal levels for a rebuilt RB20DET at running temps?

Just rebuilt, so it’s really hard to see the oil level on dip :thumbsup:

Stock gauges are way out, not a very good indication at all..

Guys i usually use Mobil1 0w40 synthetic for my car r33 gtst.. 200rwkw. Ive been doing a few track days and will be doing more in the future.. Am I on the right track with the Mobil1, or you have any other reccomendations?

Cheers.

Ok like many other noobs, yhis thread is stressing me out. So i THINK i know what engine oil i should be using, the motul 8100 stuff. But what about gearbox and diff oils. Beacause both are a little on the noisy and clunky side. Any help??

if its to confusing.. get it from nissan. or take the advise from awell known performance workshop

best in the business. All SAU should buy form him and save.

He said he might be stocking Motul oils soon as well! Also mentioned he might be getting some Castrol synthetic 5w40 (i think it was) that is manufactured in Europe, meant to be pretty good by the sounds of it.

  • 2 weeks later...

Few questions.

I have an R34GTT with light mods (see sig)

I'm looking to change all my oils (engine, LSD, gearbox)

Engine - Motul 300V 10w40 (6Lt as i have oil cooler)

Diff (This is LSD right?) - Motul 90 PA (2Lt)

Gearbox - Motul GEAR 300 75W-90 (4 Lt)

As for brakes and Clutch, i recommend Motul RBF600 <--- awesome

Does the above seem ok for my use?

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