Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

this is my opinion and most of you think it's bias but it's the TRUTH

1953 – Motul produced the World’s first Multigrade Oil.

1966 - Motul produced the World’s first Semi Synthetic oil

1971 – Motul produced the World’s first 100% Synthetic oil with Ester.

2004 – Motul produced the World’s first Double Ester Technology – 300V Engine Oils

we make the biggest range of 100% synthetic oils in the world

we do not make any group 3 or lower grade oils

we also produced the worlds first turbo specific oil

oil technology has gone a LONG way since some turbo manufactures actually extended turbo warranty if you use motul

there are some facts up to you to decide what is best for your car and application :)

hey i got a '96 33gtst wit mild mods.. wit around 260hp at rear wheels...and i got about 110,000k's on the clock,,,

so i was thinking of switch to full synthetic oils...

im using penrite 10-50 rit now...

so would oil would be a good change ova wit.

castrol edge 5-30 or motul 4100 turbolight is what ive bein looking at..

oh plus...

do i gota do an engine flush?

or can i put the oil straight in, without running into problems?

Just re-read the first page, the Motul 4100 is listed as a group II, motul 8100 is rated well, no idea about 4100.

Castrol Edge isn't the best oil, see the first page again, but high group levels are better....

Try this in google:

site:bobistheoilguy.com motul 4100

Unfortunately the website is down but when it's up you will get very technical discussions on the different oil types.

I've never done engine flushes, most of what I read say's don't do it, some say do it with a cheapish oil, just drain your existing oil completely and replace and you should be fine, along with the filter...

so before i heada out and buy the V300, i would like to ask if my engine was using 10w50 , is it safe to change it to 10w40 V300?

ive read post saying dont use full or semi to run your engine in? does that means when your engine is freshly rebuilt

as for the gear box (its whining) -Redline lightweight shockproof 75w90?

what for the diff ? (it whins too) - ????????

  • 2 weeks later...

Just changed mine to Motul 8100 Xcess 5w40, car seems to be a bit more responsive (though I also went from heat range 6 plugs back to 7), couldn't manage to get any Martini oil from the useless distributor here, so I'll be sticking with the Motul.

For the front page; Mobil 1 and Delvac 1 are group 4 base with about 20% group 5 according to DougH (this guy knows his stuff) Ref: http://www.renntech.org/forums/lofiversion...php/t18023.html

I've also updated my oil spec page - finally found some Motul stats. Looks like Redline is better high temp shear, but also a bit thicker

http://www.jaftan.com.au/skyline/engine/oilspecs.html

Wow what a massive read this has been. Definitely a bit wiser now ( probably cos 2hours has passed :) ). I still have a question though as i feel unsure about my situation.

i just bought a 99 stagea rs4-s neo6 with 14x,xxx on the clock. The previous owner said they use castrol edge (unsure of weight). They said it was changed 2 weeks ago but it smells "fuelly". I am going to do a oil change this weekend regardless of his last one.

I would like to go with the Motul 8100 5w40 that has been recommended. The car will be daily driven 150+ k's a day, and with some lead footing here and there too :P . I will be changing the oil/filter every 5000, and will get the nissan oem oil filter. I don't have the budget for the expensive oils, and i guess just want confirmation that the Motul 8100 is correct.

Many thanks for all your help

Jez

Motul 8100 is a good oil, I'd say changing every 5K is unnecessary but its your choice, especially if your driving 150km/day.

There was a member on here called Chucky that was changing every 20K with high km/s, 10K should is ok for most people...

Wow what a massive read this has been. Definitely a bit wiser now ( probably cos 2hours has passed :yes: ). I still have a question though as i feel unsure about my situation.

i just bought a 99 stagea rs4-s neo6 with 14x,xxx on the clock. The previous owner said they use castrol edge (unsure of weight). They said it was changed 2 weeks ago but it smells "fuelly". I am going to do a oil change this weekend regardless of his last one.

I would like to go with the Motul 8100 5w40 that has been recommended. The car will be daily driven 150+ k's a day, and with some lead footing here and there too :cool: . I will be changing the oil/filter every 5000, and will get the nissan oem oil filter. I don't have the budget for the expensive oils, and i guess just want confirmation that the Motul 8100 is correct.

Many thanks for all your help

Jez

I drive about the same distance, hills, 100, 80, 60 & 40kph zones, have just cleared 140,000km's.

Used Motul 8100 about 30,000km's ago. Car did not feel right. When I used the Motul engine flush at time of change (which I had done before putting the 8100 in, there was a smelly, burned "mass" of oil that came out.

I switched to Chrono 300V which has been MUCH better than the other oils I have tried (Shell Helix Ultra, Mobil 1, Amsoil - 10W40, Penrite Sin - WAAAY too thick, Castrol Edge)

I change oil and filter every 10,000km's.

You shouldn't have to change oil every 5000km's for your daily unless you are doing a bit of circuit work as well.

I also use Amsoil or K&N oil filters.

Thanks for both the replies !! hmm maybe i should of spent the extra $15 and got the 300v.. they charged $74.95 for the 8100 at repco nerang. 455holes

10k oil/filter service sounds good to me thats for sure.

So far i have picked up (going from tired castrol edge to new motul 8100) that the turbo defintely and i mean DEFINITELY spools up quicker/and possibly slightly earlier.

I also have a 480ml bottle of ROIL gold given to me.. Do you guys recommend adding some of it to the Motul 8100 ?

Thanks for the help

Jez

Edited by Jezboosted
i got recommended castrol edge...havent used it yet jus cos i got my 34 bout a week ago.....but motul 4100 turbo light has cum up many times then the edge...

Depends, Turbolight is a semi-synthetic oil.

Having said that, I found it better than the Motul 8100, though no where near as good as the Amsoil, let alone the Motul 300V.

hey guys i have a 33 auto turbo. going to do an oil change tomorrow. ill b using motul oil in the engine. 8100, 4100 turbo light, or 300v. im going to use the 300v though.

im more interested in the trans fluid and diff fluids. what do you guys reckon will be the best?? remembering its an auto and i will either want to use genuine nissan oil or fully sinthetic oils in the g/box and diff. any suggestions??

cheers

Edited by 510ONE

TURBOLIGHT IS A FULLY SYNTHETIC in API standards

we are not aloud to call it a fully syn, only because they go under acea (euro) specs there for it's called a technosynthese .......... applying semi synthetic because it's not 100%

:D hope that clears it up

Depends, Turbolight is a semi-synthetic oil.

Having said that, I found it better than the Motul 8100, though no where near as good as the Amsoil, let alone the Motul 300V.

motul atf 1 a (dexron 3) 100% synthetic ------ auto gearbox

motul ff lsd 75w90 for the diff -------- you should notice the diff tighten up when changing to this oil :D

hey guys i have a 33 auto turbo. going to do an oil change tomorrow. ill b using motul oil in the engine. 8100, 4100 turbo light, or 300v. im going to use the 300v though.

im more interested in the trans fluid and diff fluids. what do you guys reckon will be the best?? remembering its an auto and i will either want to use genuine nissan oil or fully sinthetic oils in the g/box and diff. any suggestions??

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...