Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Everything he sells are Group IV, IV/V or V

I'm using Royal Purple 5w30, but will switch to Amsoil next. Apparently a slightly better oil (Group IV/V blend) but little price difference.

Castrol Edge would market their oil as synthetic, as would the Shell one (Helix?), Havoline something-a-rather, but they're all Group III.

So you've been chatting to Harold too? :3some:

I was previously using German Castrol 0w30 in an RB26, on a track day (only 4-5 hot laps at a time!) and a cold day, oil temperature just got to 90 degrees celsius at Sandown. EDIT: This is group IV or V, not to be confused with Australian Castrol (cannot confirm if its group III or IV or ...)

Royal Purple is apparently, a group IV / II blend or is it V + II (?) anyway bobistheoilguy (forums) have a big debate about if its good or not, Amsoil was not recommended as that great either, but often recommended over Mobil1 and Royal Purple.

However, the only thing those guys seem to consider "good" is Redline oil (good for track, pretty average for street apparently) and other very high end oils.

Personally I'm using Amsoil 10w40 next change because I want something with a higher viscosity due to possibly doing a spring/summer track day :thumbsup:

It's seems there's lots of movement in regards to what oil is what group... Some of the Mobil 1's are apparently not Group IV or higher - Castrol EDGE is apparently Group IV but Edge Sport is Group III - and now there is talk that some of the very new Group III's are competition for the old Group IV's... damn confusing if you ask me.

bobistheoilguy members would be hard masters that's for sure. I'd love to run Redline all the time but it's really pushing in terms of $$ and considering you should change after every track day... it could get very pricey.

Waiting for my account to be verified at bitog so i can dig around :)

hey i have an 81 mgc210 skyline with 168 000 km on the clock what oil would u reccomend for an engine of this age iv been told if i use too thin an oil it will leak out the seals i no its a simple question but id really like an answer im changing the oil and filter in a few days.

hey i have an 81 mgc210 skyline with 168 000 km on the clock what oil would u reccomend for an engine of this age iv been told if i use too thin an oil it will leak out the seals i no its a simple question but id really like an answer im changing the oil and filter in a few days.

Maybe phone Penrite, they make a pretty good product thats not off the wall when it comes to $ and at least you'll have an idea what type- Dino, syn, semi, etc and viscosity you will need, even if you don't buy Penrite.

My guess in Penrite would be, mineral , HPR 10 or HPR 15 , or mineral 10x40 or 15x50 in any decent brand , in but I'm no expert.

  • 3 weeks later...
I just found this

e-monitor

I will be giving this a go after my next oil change and post up some results.

I was running 300v but just can't justify it with the all the daily commuting I do. I have just changed to Nulon 10-40 Fast flowing stuff, will see how it goes in 5000km.

Snap.

After endless "best oil" searching and no discernable conclusion looking likely , ever, I went with a Valvolene 10-30 semi syn which behaved like flushing oil when hot according to my oil pressure gauge so I rissoled it after 20ks and having read every oil bottle label in Autobarn that seemed remotely relevant I to decided on the Nulon 10-40 fast flow fullsyn and so far it's looking good, nice hot /cold oil pressures and the engine sounds comfortable.

Not at all technical but seems as good a yard stick as many I've read.

:P

Edited by BASHO

I just found this

e-monitor

I will be giving this a go after my next oil change and post up some results.

I was running 300v but just can't justify it with the all the daily commuting I do. I have just changed to Nulon 10-40 Fast flowing stuff, will see how it goes in 5000km.

okay, long story short I won 3 5L bottles of mobil 1 0w40

question I have is would I be safe to put it in my car, which says to use 5w30 on the oil cap. I've just been using motul 300v 5w30 so far

my car has a VQ37HR motor essentially same as vq35hr and done about 20,000k's so far

I always ran Amsoil and Amsoil filters in the USA.

The oil doesn't break down like the other synthetics..

What is the interest in bringing in Amsoil products here in Sydney?

PM me if you would purchase it if it was available here in NSW!

I always ran Amsoil and Amsoil filters in the USA.

The oil doesn't break down like the other synthetics..

What is the interest in bringing in Amsoil products here in Sydney?

performancelub.com sells that oil, take a look his shipping rates are pretty good...

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...