Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm sure I'm just one of the ignorant fools out, but isn't mineral oil vastly inferior to synthetic? Of course a TERRIBLE quality synth is going to be worse than a really high quality mineral....but since they're the same company....why would you use M5000??

The only stupid question is one that isn't asked!

Minerals these days, from reputable companies, are fairly well refined oils...there is nothing wrong with them as such and it's more about what the company does with it than whether it is mineral or synthetic. About the only advantage synthetics have over mineral, no matter how well it is produced, is the ability to achieve certain ranges of viscosity (10w40 for example). Also, there are some additives that can only be put into a semi or full synthetic recipe. Also note that despite the name M5000, it is actually a semi synthetic (30% polyol ester, 70% mineral thereabouts) in order to achieve 10w40 viscosity and take the additives that make Sougi so special :D

And the reason you would use M5000 is because S6000 is completely out and some Sougi is better than no Sougi lol...unless you've got a hard on for nothing but full synthetic. But it too will deplete soon and then you'll have to go the way of another company or give Syn-X a go (this oil isn't going anywhere anytime soon, it's their number one seller).

Also the pao and ester (group's 4 and 5) don't break down as quickly as a mineral oil due to the impurities in the mineral oil. Keep in mind that mineral oils are really heavily processed before being put on the shelf, and that mineral oils certainly have their uses for worn old engines etc...

hmm...good food for thought there Birds, appreciated :)

Unfortunately, not because I'm a fanboi or anything, but moreso because I'm not entirely keen to take a (no doubt non-existent) risk, I'd rather still to a full synth just "in case" lol....although I might still give it a shot. What's the price on the M5000 Birds? That'll probably sell it to me.

Regarding the breaking down of the oil, I change every 5000kms (oil and filter) anyway, so that should cover my ass lol

hmm...good food for thought there Birds, appreciated :)

Unfortunately, not because I'm a fanboi or anything, but moreso because I'm not entirely keen to take a (no doubt non-existent) risk, I'd rather still to a full synth just "in case" lol....although I might still give it a shot. What's the price on the M5000 Birds? That'll probably sell it to me.

Regarding the breaking down of the oil, I change every 5000kms (oil and filter) anyway, so that should cover my ass lol

i think m5000 is around $35 and s6000 should be about $60-70

Amsoil makes good quality synthetic fluids, they are formulated and manufactured in the US, many people use Amsoil engine oil with their E85 fuel tunes as it works well with it where some synthetics e.g. Motul 300V don't

hope that helps

danny

Also the pao and ester (group's 4 and 5) don't break down as quickly as a mineral oil due to the impurities in the mineral oil. Keep in mind that mineral oils are really heavily processed before being put on the shelf, and that mineral oils certainly have their uses for worn old engines etc...

Shit, forgot to say this lol...it's probably the most important difference between mineral and synthetic too, but then, I thought most would know this anyway.

M5000, I think I sell it for about $40-45. Troy, if you're changing every 5,000km you should have no trouble using a mineral or semi...but I understand completely, it is difficult to get past the barriers of habit and what you're used to. That's why oil brands end up with fans for life...for some, engine oil is a bigger decision than buying a house lol. I change S6000 every 5,000km...unnecessary but I'm emotional about it :P

Shit, forgot to say this lol...it's probably the most important difference between mineral and synthetic too, but then, I thought most would know this anyway.

haha always got your back bro

*pulls gangsta pose*

That's why sougi will be so badly missed, the fans feel betrayed and also poorer

I bought elf 10w40 oil thinking it was full syn but its only semi. Only 5w40 grade is full oh well next change. Has anyone had any experiences with elf oils?

Some people i knew started using it around 2 years ago when a bunch of places in Sydney started stocking it. Subjective feedback was negative and those people no longer use it.

Some people i knew started using it around 2 years ago when a bunch of places in Sydney started stocking it. Subjective feedback was negative and those people no longer use it.

Wow thanks for the fast reply. Guess i'll just use it now and if it's bad i'll just use 300v

ELF make very good oils. I have been using there products for ages and there fully synthetic range is only $50 for 5L. They make a fully synthetic 10W-50

I found it make my engine more quite and when i changed it every 5,000 is wasn't ever black.

skisII care to explain why feedback was negative and some proof to back it up as to why its poor? Cant be too poor if the Red Bull and Renault F1 team use it.

Edited by SIR_R32
ELF make very good oils. I have been using there products for ages and there fully synthetic range is only $50 for 5L. They make a fully synthetic 10W-50

I found it make my engine more quite and when i changed it every 5,000 is wasn't ever black.

skisII care to explain why feedback was negative and some proof to back it up as to why its poor? Cant be too poor if the Red Bull and Renault F1 team use it.

im sure the oil is fine but oil going black is a good thing it means the detergents are picking up the carbon deposits correctly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • List all of your mods. It sounds like an aftermarket ECU hitting rev limiter. Like a valet mode, or a cold rpm limiter? 
    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
×
×
  • Create New...