Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Your oil getting black is from the detergants 'cleaning' your engine, you certainly wouldn't want to be getting black oil just from blow by.

If you change oil only every 5,000km's it should be slightly black, by 10,000km's if it aint black I would be worried, either the engine is impossible clean or the oil aint cleaning sh*t.

I think Mobil 1 would contain aleast an average amount of detergents, it recommends on the back of the bottle for GTR's i think,

Actually the oil I drained out was exactly 5litres. And its the first time I've changed the oil since it came from japland

Checked the dipstick and it seems to be fine

who says to use 3.4L? that would be on the low mark on the dipstick surely...

Personally i fill mine a bit over full , upto the H and thats 4.5L

Seems Chequered and Racepace are using Catrol Edge 10W60 for track work. I've got an oil change coming up and my car does mostly occassional street driving but will see the track from time to time. What's the latest thinking? Performance Lube are suggesting 10W40 Royal Purple, citing with group 4/5 synth oils 10W60 is thicker than it needs to be. I'm running a 310RWKW RB26 with extended sump and oil cooler.

Where is recommended to buy the Catrol Edge 10W60 if it ends up being the go.

Keep it simple for me guys.

Thanks.

RP 10w40 would be my oil of choice after the Edge (which is easily bought from most parts places and cheaper).

It's hard to judge without UOA's or filtergrams tbh, though I did see a car on another forum where they changed from Edge 10w60 to Penrite 5w50 and ended up with a lifter dragging on the cam and scoring a lobe. That was on an aftermarket cam with a fairly aggressive ramp rate though.

Mine goes in for a service tomorrow, so should have the sample off for testing within the next few days.

Seems Chequered and Racepace are using Catrol Edge 10W60 for track work. I've got an oil change coming up and my car does mostly occassional street driving but will see the track from time to time. What's the latest thinking? Performance Lube are suggesting 10W40 Royal Purple, citing with group 4/5 synth oils 10W60 is thicker than it needs to be. I'm running a 310RWKW RB26 with extended sump and oil cooler.

Where is recommended to buy the Catrol Edge 10W60 if it ends up being the go.

Keep it simple for me guys.

Thanks.

As recommended by Racepace iv been using Edge 10W60 for many years on my stock rb26 with 290rwkw without any issues, mainly street duties. Now same on my forged engine. They know their RB's!!

Buy it from repco or autobarn wherever is cheapest.

As recommended by Racepace iv been using Edge 10W60 for many years on my stock rb26 with 290rwkw without any issues, mainly street duties. Now same on my forged engine. They know their RB's!!

Buy it from repco or autobarn wherever is cheapest.

I would of thought using a light oil like 0-40 for street duties and a thick oil 10-60 for track would be sensible, and dropping the oil after each purpose is fulfilled, im guessing racepace wouldnt build the tightest engines if there built to be thrashed around a track, originally the 0-30w recommendation must of been for a tight motor out the factory.

I would of thought using a light oil like 0-40 for street duties and a thick oil 10-60 for track would be sensible, and dropping the oil after each purpose is fulfilled, im guessing racepace wouldnt build the tightest engines if there built to be thrashed around a track, originally the 0-30w recommendation must of been for a tight motor out the factory.

My motor was stock on my last gtr and still ran the same oil as many other gtr's without any issues. My friend owns it now pushing same power 5 years later. Most gtr's are modified also which also has to be taken into account, factory recommendations go out the window. Besides these are engines designed in the 80's, not exactly modern tight engines.

Anyway I just listen and trust what they say, I'm not gonna second guess their knowledge.

  • 2 weeks later...

Sounds like good advice there James.

Opinions are like arseholes, everyone has one. Try a few different grades and see/feel how your engine responds Flavzz.

Thicker oils will feel more lethargic until the temps get high but will offer more protection for the track. They will also take longer to drain back to the sump which is a common RB issue.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lamb roast on Saturday will be different 🥲
    • They are under bucket shims. Tomei provides a test shim kit and then any measurement of shim required. 
    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
×
×
  • Create New...