Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

So as far as oil goes I have a few questions with Oil Pressure?




I live in AZ where the summer weather is 110-120 degrees F.



I drove my car in California where the Oil pressure was FINE. but as soon as I came back to AZ (where I actually live) the oil pressure started to drop. Drop meaning almost to 0. then only getting up to maybe 20-30psi driving. Does Crazy hot weather have an effect on that?



Because in California like i said the oil pressure was fine because the weather is significantly cooler there 60-80 degrees F.



I'm running 20w50 (switched it on 7/6/2015 when I came back to his pit of fire called AZ)


from 10w30



I thought since it's too hot here the viscosity is thinning out too much with 10w30 but even with 20w50 it's still dropping...



Is that a ambient heat issue? I'm going to try and replace the sending unit and if that fails too then I'm almost sure that I'm going to need a new oil pump which is going to cost me quite the bit of money because of Labor. (I don't have the time to be doing my own engine work ATM)



Thanks for your input guys!


1989 HCR32

RB20DET

Only engine mods done are FMIC/Intake/ Turbo Back.

It happens after normal and hard driving.

I do not have an Oil Cooler installed :( I was hoping if it was a temp issue then I can just get a Oil Cooler and call it a day.

I'm replacing the sending unit this week.

I'm just hoping that it's not my oil pump and worst case scenario gap in my bearings :(

Edited by HanBear

I don't have an oil temp gauge and I really do not know oil temps too much

My back ground on skyline experience is little to none. I've only had the car for about 3 weeks. I have a water temp guage and it usually sits around 70-80 according the guage. If that means anything. :(

I replaced the sending unit. The z32 sending unit was indeed a perfect fit and now my pressures are fine. You guys were right. And I was lucky that's all it was. For now.... I haven't driven too much on it yet so I'll see how it goes. Thanks for all your inputs.

This thread is sort of useless.

Some people drove to the shops, some track their cars.

Without full information you can't make a call on the reccomendations.

Spot on Ben, if anything it shows that it kinda doesn't matter as long as it's within a reasonable weight range and changed at reasonable intervals

When you've got a track GTR running magnatec and road cars running the most expensive off the shelf oils you can buy, it really comes down to personal preference

This thread is sort of useless.

Some people drove to the shops, some track their cars.

Without full information you can't make a call on the reccomendations.

I feel the same way about the tyre thread. Particularly since I've had several sets of tyres that felt great when new (and hence get good reviews) but when half worn felt like you were wrestling an angry and well-lubricated pig. Truly good tyres maintain their grip level right to the canvas (but obviously not the water-clearing ability).

  • Like 1

The tyre thread is as useful as a toothbrush made entirely from ants.....

You get people who have used one tyre ever giving it 8/10. How on earth can they rate if if they haven't used other tyres on the same car ins the same conditions as others? Useless thread.

The tyre thread is as useful as a toothbrush made entirely from ants.....

You get people who have used one tyre ever giving it 8/10. How on earth can they rate if if they haven't used other tyres on the same car ins the same conditions as others? Useless thread.

At least with the tyre thread you can get some who compare two different tyres (but may be comparing old to new), and there can be some use in that. In this thread people use engine sound or oil colour or no evidence at all to say an oil is good/bad. So its pretty much just a mix of stuff they heard from somewhere, confirmation bias and cognitive dissonance.

Also, its way more important to make sure that you don't empty the sump than to choose oil X or Y, because even the cheapest oil lubricates way better than air.

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...