The Goods On Oils

[AngryRB]

fyp

Bit harsh mate, am intitiled to share an opinion based on scientific facts, i did state, ( from what i have read and heard, googled etc..) no need to be like that...

if you dont like what i say, then dont comment, i thought this forum was about facts, info, helping people, whats your info based on?? show me??

[AngryRB]

Your understanding sucks

From my understanding OIL is very important in protecting against metal/metal contact. Nothing wrong with SM. Many other parts in your engine will fail before it succumbs to the "adverse effects" of an SM oil.

[/quo

SM oil is formulated for brand new engines not older engines such as r33's, it wont damage engines its just not the very best oil, thats all im saying,

is redline, motul, royal purple oils a SM??? no.... cause SM criteria says to have lower levels of stuff like Zddp, these race oils all have high levels of it because its important, therefore SM isnt the best oil...

you can use castrol magnetic if you like, but doesnt mean its the best oil..

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

there is no such thing as a best oil and there never has been, not 300v, not mobil 1, not anything

different applications require different oils.

to say that mobil 1 is/was the best oil is therefore false...

also i was only having a harmless pisstake.... no need to get your panties in a knot

[Galois]

Don't use magnatec

Though zddp is a unparalleled oil additive it's important to remember there's a lot more to oil than just zddp. Zddp is one of literally dozens of additives to oils to reduce friction, and the reduction of zddp in oils is nothing new, the zddp level has been reducing for decades.

One thing you may not know is that often concentration doesn't matter as much as people think. Doubling the concentration of an additive almost never doubles it's effect. Further, once a certain concentration of zddp is reached it won't benefit the lubrication mechanism by adding more.

Also, zddp is known to damage catalytic converters over time, so unnecessarily high concentrations won't be doing any favours.

[Galois]

Whoops, double post.

But go the sau post saver!!

Edited July 6, 2011 by Galois

[AngryRB]

Don't use magnatec

Though zddp is a unparalleled oil additive it's important to remember there's a lot more to oil than just zddp. Zddp is one of literally dozens of additives to oils to reduce friction, and the reduction of zddp in oils is nothing new, the zddp level has been reducing for decades.

One thing you may not know is that often concentration doesn't matter as much as people think. Doubling the concentration of an additive almost never doubles it's effect. Further, once a certain concentration of zddp is reached it won't benefit the lubrication mechanism by adding more.

Also, zddp is known to damage catalytic converters over time, so unnecessarily high concentrations won't be doing any favours.

cheers for that reply, bit more useful than the previous few..

Im no expert but when researching about oils on net, ZDDP comes up alot, the recommended level for best protection is apparently up around 1400ppm, The API standards stipulate that newer generation oils have less of ZDDP, so eg Mobil 1 SM rated, is now about 800ppm,

so although it may not be the only additive it seems to be an important one none the less.

[Birds]

SM oil is formulated for brand new engines not older engines such as r33's, it wont damage engines its just not the very best oil, thats all im saying,

is redline, motul, royal purple oils a SM??? no.... cause SM criteria says to have lower levels of stuff like Zddp, these race oils all have high levels of it because its important, therefore SM isnt the best oil...

you can use castrol magnetic if you like, but doesnt mean its the best oil..

Give them time and they will be. What you're describing only affects old-old vehicles, talking pre 80's shit. Skylines are perfectly fine to run on the latest oils. My issue is that it's misinformation to say SM oils should be avoided, when your reasoning is the reduction in content of a single additive that does not have the kind of impact you're suggesting it does.

It really is one of the last things I'd look at in the line of selecting an oil. You've probably attributed your car to running differently based on your ZDDP content, when the reality is that you've now got a thinner viscosity oil / different type, and cars always feel different after a fresh oil change.

[nk7]

Hey fellas just a heads up to all that love a good lube. I hope this is the right place to put this moderators. Just to let you guys know that Harold at PerformanceLUB (www.performancelub.com) is having a special on redline 10W40 (good for the winter season) for $18/qrt instead of usual $23/qrt only if you mention my name (Nik). This is the cheapest price on net (including ebay)!!

He has other brands and products like Amsoil Oil, Royal Purple oil, Royal Purple XPR, Royal Purple Max Cycle, Castrol Syntec Edge ( German Castrol), Mobil 1 EP Extented Performance, GReddy Rotary Oil, NGK iridium IX & G-Power Platinums Performance Spark Plugs, Full synthetic engine oil, K&N Oil & air Filters, Philips Xtreme Vision Bulbs. I've checked out the prices of some of the items and they still seem to be cheapest on net even if you ordered products like ngk iridium sparkies from overseas - go figure.

Some of you would know him already and have dealt with him. I've had no probs and in one purchase just bought oils for everything on my dirty2. engine, diff and gearbox. Only charged $25 for 16kg worth of oils through fastway.

Send him an email with my name somewhere in it to: [email protected] and I'm sure he'll help you out. He knows his oils so ask whatever you want to help you make your mind up. If you go through ebay you may miss on discounts since he has more fees but going directly through him and paying by paypal (which is what I did) I'm sure he'll sort you out.

Remember this is a suggestion - research for yourself first before making up your mind. BTW I am not getting any sort of kickback from this. But you won't be dissapointed.

Eat it

-Nik

[nk7]

for some reason accidentally reposted sorry.

Edited July 8, 2011 by nk7

[ARTZ]

General mechanics usually carry 15w40 and 20w50 mineral oils to keep running costs down. These two oils will help service 95% of the cars they come across. The game is changing though, with many modern cars that call for 10w30 now entering their "non-genuine servicing" ages...requiring general mechanics to carry specialist oils too.

Most workshops that I supply oil to, I have convinced them to keep only Syn-X 10w40 and Hi-tech 20w50 in stock, as Syn-X is only slightly more expensive than mineral 15w40 by the 205 drum, and can be used where both 15w40 or 10w30 are needed.

yeah its just a price issue.. suspected as much, in my cars i run

93 skyline gtst...130km....motul 8100...5:40

04 accord ...155km...peak ecosyn 5:30 ( no reason just thought id try it )

bt59 TD...80km....penrite hpr 5 semi syn....5:40..

All cars had a 5:30 from factory and all are in GC so I think having a lightweight oil on startup is beneficial to a start and go lifestyle..though none get pushed hard until oil is warm..the skyline and the ute get worked the hardest so I supply a little extra protection up top..

But when to change, is there a point in a cars lifecycle when you go ok its time to put a thicker oil in it, or should i just keep running what the factory ordered?

[AngryRB]

[88cameron88]

lol at how stressed people get over their oils.

a lot of you guys worry to much, i havent seen many engines die from the wrong "grade" of oil being used. Its oil starvation thatll do it!

90% of workshops just stock a generic brand 15/40 because thats all 90% of cars need, including your average skyline.

[88cameron88]

lol at how stressed people get over their oils.<br>a lot of you guys worry to much, i havent seen many engines die from the wrong  "grade" of oil being used.  Its oil starvation thatll do it!<br>90% of workshops just stock a generic brand 15/40 because thats all 90% of cars need, including your average skyline.

[Rolls]

True story

[Rolls]

ffs double post

Edited July 8, 2011 by Rolls

[Humbla]

Well i'm very happy with nulon 10 40,been using it for years no lifter noise.When i used motul allways had lifter noise for a few seconds on start up.

[Birds]

yeah its just a price issue.. suspected as much, in my cars i run

93 skyline gtst...130km....motul 8100...5:40

04 accord ...155km...peak ecosyn 5:30 ( no reason just thought id try it )

bt59 TD...80km....penrite hpr 5 semi syn....5:40..

All cars had a 5:30 from factory and all are in GC so I think having a lightweight oil on startup is beneficial to a start and go lifestyle..though none get pushed hard until oil is warm..the skyline and the ute get worked the hardest so I supply a little extra protection up top..

But when to change, is there a point in a cars lifecycle when you go ok its time to put a thicker oil in it, or should i just keep running what the factory ordered?

I recommend changing to something thicker when you start to experience issues with the engine, like blowing smoke or noisy bearings etc. If you want a rule of thumb interval, probably around 150,000-200,000km would be a good time to switch to something like 15w50...all depends on the condition of your engine though. Personally I like to run the thinnest oil that doesn't get burned up / blow smoke...10w40 is still fine for me.

[Rolls]

Measure the oil when you drain it, if a significant amount is missing (burnt) then go up a grade eg 15-50 like mentioned.

[ARTZ]

I recommend changing to something thicker when you start to experience issues with the engine, like blowing smoke or noisy bearings etc. If you want a rule of thumb interval, probably around 150,000-200,000km would be a good time to switch to something like 15w50...all depends on the condition of your engine though. Personally I like to run the thinnest oil that doesn't get burned up / blow smoke...10w40 is still fine for me.

i did try a 10/40 in the honda thinking its old, but it wasn't as nice, went back to 5/30 and its all nice again

@ 155,000 clicks it is in very good conditon for its age though

Measure the oil when you drain it, if a significant amount is missing (burnt) then go up a grade eg 15-50 like mentioned.

thats sounds about right, but none of them burn any oil at all

[Birds]

Yeah if it's in good nick stick with what you're using.