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The Goods On Oils

PHaT MR30

By PHaT MR30,
in General Maintenance

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Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
Posted (edited)

Noob question but what does that mean?

One is 5w40 the other is 10w40. All this info is in the last few pages mate, maybe have a read over them?

well I would think that means your doing them up to tight wouldnt u?

Also are you putting them on dry or wet, smear a little oil around the seal and half fill it with oil before you put it on..

Anyway, I guess some people just dont get it, which is why they make filters with little nuts..

I do usually agree with you mate, but what is it I'm not getting? I do the filter up hand tight, not as tight as i possibly can but still pretty tight, smear plenty of old oil on the seal. And when I go to undo it probably have a bit of oil on the hand/fingers from undoing and catching the sump plug, and shockingly the thing doesn't want to come off. The nut means that when it doesn't want to come off you whip out a spanner rather than drying everything off and trying again by hand.

You are right though, I am probably overtightening it and I am not an expert, but i sure as hell wouldn't want to put it on to loose. The filter with the nut just makes it easier, we all know that it can be hard to undo things on cars from time to time.

Edited by Galois
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scotty nm35
scotty nm35

Any brand will work fine, some just last longer than others. I still believe you are better off using a cheaper ($50) oil and changing it every 5k rather than spending twice that and trying to strin

Kinks
Kinks

Royal Purple 10W-50, warm it between your hands for a few seconds then apply it to the area at the base of your shaft between your balls ..about as valid as any other opinion in this thread

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

F1 still use monograde 10 weight oils, hence the need to get the engine warm before starting it. Nothing stone age about it...

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Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

Hand tight is correct but too tight is better than too loose. Have seen an entire bottle of Sougi dump out onto the floor of my workshop after I started my engine, because I made the mistake of letting my friend screw on the oil filter (too loose and seal wasn't sitting properly).

Heat/time/pressure will affect the oil filter thread and seal...it is normal for something to be tighter when removing than installing. Just keep using the nuts if you can't get it right. Oil filter wrench is a fantastic invention though...difficult to get in there and use on an RB engine, but will get the tightest of filters off.

It definitely looks good. How secure is it though birds, I'm guessing you've never had any trouble? Does it feel like the safety latch will protect against a wayward stone flying up under the car?

Seems pretty secure to me. You have to pull down on the tap/lever and then turn it. Sort of like how those child proof screw caps work. It won't turn in it's stationary position. They've designed it pretty well to prevent accidental release. Does not stick out far at all either...I would say the base of my sump is still closer to the ground than my valve - should be plenty safe for lowered cars.

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

What viscosity is good for an RB20E with 180km on the clock.

It will be summer when I have to do an oil change and I give it a good trashing everyday.

Whatever the cheapest stuff kmart has in 10w40, if it burns oil go 20w50

Also how do you thrash an rb20e, in fact what car even has an rb20e in it, must be horrible to drive!

Dingus Proficient

Dingus

Posted
Posted (edited)

I use one of these,just like you said makes oil changes a breeze. :yes:

Excuse the n00b question, but no idea on thread/pitch of the sump plug. Which of these would be the go for an RB25?

http://fumoto.com.au/sizes.php

EDIT: Scrolled down *facepalm* can someone confirm this is it? Nissan Models from 1990 & on 12mm-1.25 F-103

Edited by Dingus

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